Hardened bolts or not

Mostly true enough, Andy; but it's also designed not to bend beyond the yield strength of the materials involved. ;)

It does bend a little to absorb energy produced by turbulent air, changes in direction, etc.

Of course, comparing metallurgical properties of aluminum with steel isn't much of a comparison at all. FWIW, the rivets ARE much harder; it's the members they hold together that are annealed.
 
I thought about it a second; changed my post accordingly. I'm with you on the 7018.
 
Keep in mind that a threaded fastener [bolt ] acts much like spring under tension . As such any fastener has to be properly torqued to get the desired performance .An under torqued fastener will fail more often than one with proper torque .This is basically taking the fastener to the yield point then a certain degrees of rotation past that .In other words you have to stretch them . All that said grade 8 would be a better choice for a critical fastener in this application .
 
Your 6013 could be the root pass!

Pre heat all components to 500F. 6010 or 6011 root pass, 7018 mid and cap. Post heat for an hour at 500F turn off oven and let cool with door closed.

That said, just use Grade 8 fasteners. If they fail it is going to be the least of your problems that day.
When you say assemble components, are talking about the pintle to a 2" receiver stub plate? if so the 5/8" pin will shear first, or the whole tube will twist and fail.
 
FWIW, the manufacturers of the pintles and hitch adapters instruct to use grade 8 bolts. They even specify the size. Instruction sheets can be amazing things.
 
I am told by reliable sources that imported stuff is not to be trusted as their quality control aint worth squat

Some bolt manufacturing facilities in the US are foreign owned, they brought their standards to the US. Iwata bolts also has a factory in China.
 
Pre heat all components to 500F. 6010 or 6011 root pass, 7018 mid and cap. Post heat for an hour at 500F turn off oven and let cool with door closed.

That said, just use Grade 8 fasteners. If they fail it is going to be the least of your problems that day.
When you say assemble components, are talking about the pintle to a 2" receiver stub plate? if so the 5/8" pin will shear first, or the whole tube will twist and fail.

I run 6010 too
 
6010 is the old standard---if you have a DC machine that is .They do make an AC /DC 7018 by the way .One manufacturer is Forney .

6011 is pretty much the standard "root pass " rod for a buzz box .6013 they call "farmer rod " because about anyone can weld with it as it doesn't freeze nearly as fast as 6010 or 11 .However it doesn't burn in nearly as deep as either one of them .
 
Why not just go all the way with welding it via a dual shield .045 wire, just need a big honking power source to burn it in with. :D 6013 does have a distinct advantage for dirty work though(burning through grease or painted surfaces), but you would clean that off before doing a weld anyway, right? :lol:


Back on topic, I'm with Erik the Outspoken, and say Grade 8.
 
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It is. It will burn through most odd contaminants, eliminating most grinding for quick field repairs.

It's also a staple of most off road enthusiasts that don't have a Readywelder or equivalent mig welder.
 
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  • #41
Well guys, I bought the pintle hitch tonight and guess what, it came with grade 8 bolts. I guess this thread was all for nothing.
 
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  • #48
Holly shit, this is getting deep. Actually, its getting deep in here.
 
Ok your right! Just remember to not put the pintle on upside down!:lol:
 
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