Merle Nelson
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #676
Not familiar with anything tree related in stick form Peter, unless that is a marking crayon. What is it?
Beginner Tree Climbing Tips
- Thread starter Merle Nelson
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Raj
TreeHouser
old Camo paint from the army. Anyone who used it knows it's pretty impossible to remove. 
Merle Nelson
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #678
Ohhhhhhh. Thanks
Chris E
I'm Not Slash
Good old dirt, so useful
Raj
TreeHouser
Adding a micro pulley with the prusik on you fiddler blocks makes advancing the prusik up the pull line way easier. With this set up you can just about get the line preloaded before ever using the blocks themselves. I can take more pictures if anyone needs them.
pantheraba
More biners!!!
agreed...I have pulled some shenanigans before chasing the prusik before. Great idea!
TreeMuggs
Treehouser
That is brilliant, thank you, I'm gonna record a whole new video for my apprentice on setting up the 5 to 1
TreeMuggs
Treehouser
Buddy, that's one of those things that you look at and you think, how the ____ did I not realize that? I love it, thank you.
No problem. I guess I should really take the time to think about some of the stuff I do and get it posted. I like learning new ways to get a little faster. I've worked a lot as a one man show and have had to come up with ways to trim the excess from some of the common techniques to make it a bit more doable. Love the website by the way. I wish such a thing existed about 15 years ago. Maybe it did and I just had no idea.
oldachonoak
Treehouser
Using a come along with rope and prusik
I have done that with a strong come along with a not so long cable. I tie the come along off put the prusik up the rope as long as the cable pull the tree and tie off the rope above the come along and let cable out advance the prusik and repeat. I am currently doing this to a tall pine in back that was wind blown into a leaner it is slow going and I removed allot of weight off the low side. It's coming back slow but sure the ground is saturated know so its a little easier. You can get a cheap come along from Harbor Freight junk store some stuff isn't bad and I am using an old piece of 3/4" 3 strand. It's kind of an experiment I wanted to just drop it but the boss said no more tree's come down this year and she gets the last word because she won't stop talking!!!!!!
Ted
I have done that with a strong come along with a not so long cable. I tie the come along off put the prusik up the rope as long as the cable pull the tree and tie off the rope above the come along and let cable out advance the prusik and repeat. I am currently doing this to a tall pine in back that was wind blown into a leaner it is slow going and I removed allot of weight off the low side. It's coming back slow but sure the ground is saturated know so its a little easier. You can get a cheap come along from Harbor Freight junk store some stuff isn't bad and I am using an old piece of 3/4" 3 strand. It's kind of an experiment I wanted to just drop it but the boss said no more tree's come down this year and she gets the last word because she won't stop talking!!!!!!
Ted
pantheraba
More biners!!!
Good setup...would like to see how you tension it.
Be a barbarian not a peasant. Trees are strong and you are not. On big removals use the strength of the tree to protect you from your risky decisions and frail human form. If a tree kills you it will never know or care, so take your time. Ignore the people on the ground yelling at you. All they can do is maybe get your body if their advice is wrong. Use your judgement, get higher, and take a smaller piece.
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
Sorry, but your setting with the portawrap doesn't give you one bit of a mechanical advantage. Even worse, you loose some of your traction power by the friction in the blocks and in the rope. The two blocks are both tied to a fixed point. Therefor, they can't have a movement relatively to each other and to the whole setup, which precisely is what should be done to obtain a MA. Here, the same force flows through the system up to the crown, minus the friction's loss. All you get is a useless double redirect.
If you found that the rope is tighter, it's because your are stronger than you think
Nice rigging in the second vid. The redirect is very useful in this case to keep the maasdam at reach. More than once, with a remote anchor, I ended to get the handle just barely touching my fingers. It isn't very easy to put some load on it, raised on the toes.
Spellfeller
Clueless but careful
wow!
Thanks for these vids, Corey! Your commentary was great, and I love your shepherd's enthusiasm. What a great dog!
These are still pretty gear intensive approaches (for me). I've got no blocks, fiddle or otherwise! In fact, I have no lowering device, but I can't see a way around that, so I'm going to bite the bullet and order a Stein RC2000. Lots of value there at ~$160.
As discussed in other threads, I'll have to use the Maasdam to tension the holding line, capture the progress on the Stein, and then move the Maasdam to set up the pulling line.
No blocks also means no redirects, so I'll have to find a willing helper. I figure the unskilled labor (or at least less skilled than I am, which is saying something) should be on the Maasdam, since cranking on that handle takes less finesse than releasing the hold line...?
Thanks for these vids, Corey! Your commentary was great, and I love your shepherd's enthusiasm. What a great dog!
These are still pretty gear intensive approaches (for me). I've got no blocks, fiddle or otherwise! In fact, I have no lowering device, but I can't see a way around that, so I'm going to bite the bullet and order a Stein RC2000. Lots of value there at ~$160.
As discussed in other threads, I'll have to use the Maasdam to tension the holding line, capture the progress on the Stein, and then move the Maasdam to set up the pulling line.
No blocks also means no redirects, so I'll have to find a willing helper. I figure the unskilled labor (or at least less skilled than I am, which is saying something) should be on the Maasdam, since cranking on that handle takes less finesse than releasing the hold line...?
Merle Nelson
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #696
Remember the Masdam slips around 1500lb of pull.
Spellfeller
Clueless but careful
Help me here, guys. Are you thinking that 1500# may not be enough tension?
Pretty sure it will be sufficient to pull the tree into the lay after notching/backcut/wedging (2nd use).
Do you mean it may not be enough to set the holding line? (1st use)
robert gray
Treehouser
Think guy wire on a telephone pole. A tree leaning over a house can be guyed with a comealong. Teeth shear at 1500 lbs. Double up if in doubt. Then comealong direction of fell.
I like above posters Corey "climb higher, cut smaller" advice. Mine would be dont cut to high on your backcut, av\bove piece could fail causing chain to stick in the curf taking saw with falling piece. Secondly, discard the steel core flipline on any compromised wood. The steel core wont fail and compromised wood often does. Definition of compromised wood. Dead trees, lightening struck trees, hollow trees.
I like above posters Corey "climb higher, cut smaller" advice. Mine would be dont cut to high on your backcut, av\bove piece could fail causing chain to stick in the curf taking saw with falling piece. Secondly, discard the steel core flipline on any compromised wood. The steel core wont fail and compromised wood often does. Definition of compromised wood. Dead trees, lightening struck trees, hollow trees.
Raj
TreeHouser
I use the maasdam often. I like, when possible, getting the pull line as high as high can get, somewhat bow the top over, as the back cut is made the tree straightens it's self, into the lay. Only good on green green green healthyish wood. Got decay or defects I rely on the stretch of the rope. But all this is solo work.
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