Probably more information than anyone wants, but to do proper chaining, you have to make temperature and sag corrections. Both ends have to be level of course, but the tail chainman would also have a tension handle on the end. You look at your corrections(from a book, or the small wood ruler sold with new chains), and adjust the pull to get a correct measurement. The idea is to stretch the chain so remove the effect of the sag in the line.That's what I meant by "certified". It's an engineered material that conforms to specifications so accuracy can be maintained. You'd send your chain out every year or so to be checked and calibrated.
This is all slightly before my time. When I started, easily portable distance meters had become fairly common, though the standard we used was anything under 200' got chained unless it was a huge hassle(lots of brush, steep grade changes...). Everyone just guessed how much to pull. It didn't matter much for house stakeout, road, or other common things. If you're a couple hundredths off, it won't affect much.