Bang/Buck Rigging Rope?

I personally despise wire rope, and would much prefer chain. Those loops look like a PITA to snake under logs. Metal splinters are the worst.
 
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  • #27
Seems like wire rope would be easier to get under a log. I have one chain, but it has a big ass hook on it. It's a recovery chain I found in a field years ago. I used to have some regular chains, but they've disappeared. I'll check my chain out, and see if it can be useful...

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My chain...

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The hook might even be useful, but it's kinda heavy, and it might get in the way. I wouldn't want to cut it off, cause the perfect use for it might come around some time.
 
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That old chain is a beautiful thing !! ... I'd leave it original and use it for vehicle recovery. Real logging Chokers have a beefier tighter Slip hook that just passes the chain through and doesn't come out. Two sizes as well , I have a few of the smaller diameter (though both sizes are rated the same).
 
That's the correct names, and you know that. Calling things the correct names is a good thing, so that way people know what you are talking about. I agree completely on the logging chokers, and i thought the chain ones often had a short section of rod to help push it under a log. John, the problem with a regular eye to eye choker is the fact that usually the log is laying on the ground, so you have to ram it under it so you can choke it. A logging choker has 1 eye for hooking to the rigging, but the other end has a ferrule and a sliding bell to hold the ferrule. The wire is a single line and straight, so you can ram it under a log pretty good. Here's a picture of my splicing some up, very handy. Also be sure to use a shackle when you connect rope to the wire rope (if you go that way), otherwise they will abrade so fast it won't last a day.

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Wire rope isn't as nice to work with as a soft flexible rope, but you are already seeing how rope doesn't like this kind of abuse. If you are using a vehicle to pull with, you are subjecting the rigging to much higher forces than you are likely thinking, so any weak points like knots will likely break. You need splices, and materials that can handle the forces, abrasion, and ideally won't stretch a ton like rope will. John, you love doing things the hard way and learning these skills, so this should be right up your alley. Get some wire core line, some choker bells (choker hooks on west tech's site), maybe a block or two, a handful of shackles, maybe a havens grip, and then you will have gear to do this whenever you need to. Your higher strength ropes like stable braid don't handle abrasion as well as treemaster does, let alone wire and chain. My .02.
 
I would buy that sling & a chain chocker. The wire sling could be used as an extension for your rope & take most of the abuse, then attach the log with a chain chocker to that.
Cordage really does not appreciate being dragged through mud & dirt, so if you are going to buy expensive rope look after it. I have my nice rigging ropes, I also have cheap 3 strand in a couple of diameters, which I abuse and treat as disposable.
 
Cable chokers works real well, and last a long time in soft dirt. If you have a lot of rocks or pavement to drag over chain is best. Rope for dragging in either case will not last long a small handful of drags at best.
I like the FSE(ferrule slide eye) cable chokers sometimes called cat chokers.
 
We were using it to crane limbs and tops. Back when I logged a little, I’ve fished chain under logs more than a few times. Usually a cable then though as most of my logging was done with a cable loader.
 
Regarding tongs, the 36” ones you linked are going to be huge. We never used bigger than 24”-25”. If the log was too big for them, we choked it on with the cable.

My tongs are like these...

 
FWIW, the blue ones are “skidding” tongs, and are half(-ish) the price of “lifting” tongs. Everyone I ever knew using a cable loader used the skidding tongs. They’re not rated as high in capacity, but I wouldn’t stand under a log hanging in tongs regardless of the color or rating...😳
 
We used chokers and bells for cranes and dragging logs... bullet proof. The heavy head makes for bashing through soil under a log to choke it.

Tongs load up then can pop off fierce in a surprise..

Chain is good but tough to get under a buried log...and doesnt cinch or choke tight.

Wire rope will just cut poke hurt you.

Ropes w hooks either steel or aluminum break at the hook knot or bend and come back on the winch fierce..

Just some of my experiences w pulling logs.
 
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  • #47
Any tricks to getting a knot out of treemaster, or is it best to untie it with a knife? I've got a figure 8 loop in the end that's looking like a permanent addition til it breaks.
 
Get a small spike looking thing, such as a marlinspike. You can improv with a nail, an awl (what i often use for splicing wire to open the strands), or a pin wrench (what i often use in place of a fid).
 
Sounds like a spud wrench would work. (I had to look up pin wrench and found spud wrench)

"A spud wrench is a wrench with an adjustable or standard box wrench on one end and a tapered spike on the other. The spike can be used to line up bolt holes when installing pipe fittings, doing automotive work or—in the case of iron workers—for lining up bolt holes in girders and beams."
 
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  • #50
Yea, I was thinking that. I have a heavy duty chaining pin in the truck I found somewhere. I'll play with that a bit, but the knot's tight as hell. I'm not optimistic.
 
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