Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
Because it's hard to take a cool stance for the pic with the trimming saw.
Woodworking
- Thread starter Fiddler
- Start date
- Replies 565
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Nutball
TreeHouser
What kind of finish is that? Just really fine sanding, or something else: stain/sealer? I don't know much about finishing wood.
Ed L
Treehouser
Crisco....slather it on, let dry, repeat a couple times. When it gets thin, she adds more.
Ed
Ed
Raj
TreeHouser
Nothing spectacular but I turned a small dry apple log I've had for a few years into 4.5" diameter 6" long lamp base with holes for small tools. The lamp shade was left on my front yard by a methhead, I replaced the lamp socket and added a cord.
BlackSmith
Uncivil
Amazing what you can accomplish when not shitposting on the interweb all day.
Raj
TreeHouser
Pulled out some 4" thick walnut from my house, decided to flatten and sand it since it's finally a nice (not raining) day. People always tell me I need a big shop. I say no shit, eh. 25-32" wide 50" long. About 3" thick.
Raj
TreeHouser
Work is dead around my parts. So I've taken on some woodworking jobs with the live edge I have. Still need to sand it and apply finish.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
MCT coconut oil as a finish. .. resists longterm rancidity better than regular coconut oil.
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SeanKroll
Treehouser
Just messing with a piece of spalted maple. Planed and power sanded to 120 grit.
Some tearout from the planer requires more sanding, then some finer grit.
Bandsawn/ air-dried atop a piece that is planed, then sanded.
Reading about pros and cons of finishing products, and taking advice.
So far, I've used MCT coconut oil on two cutting or charcuterie boards.
Some tearout from the planer requires more sanding, then some finer grit.
Bandsawn/ air-dried atop a piece that is planed, then sanded.
Reading about pros and cons of finishing products, and taking advice.
So far, I've used MCT coconut oil on two cutting or charcuterie boards.
Ed L
Treehouser
I use whatever the recipent has...that way they are more likely to keep it oiled.
Loml uses canol oil, so thats what her cutting board gets.
Ed
Loml uses canol oil, so thats what her cutting board gets.
Ed
Walnut cures, albeit slowly, and gives a fairly durable surface.
It is also food safe, smells good and works great on salad.
It was used as the hardening agent in paint before Linseed took over.
All those great masterpieces, like Rembrandt's " The night watch" that we go to museums to see, are made with Walnut oil.
Linseed is for outdoor wood treatment IMO, unless as an ingredient of Danish oil, which BTW is my go-to for turnings etc.
It is also food safe, smells good and works great on salad.
It was used as the hardening agent in paint before Linseed took over.
All those great masterpieces, like Rembrandt's " The night watch" that we go to museums to see, are made with Walnut oil.
Linseed is for outdoor wood treatment IMO, unless as an ingredient of Danish oil, which BTW is my go-to for turnings etc.
pigwot
M's, Juniper's, Lowen’s, and Inge’s Grandpa
Heat-treated walnut oil. Mahoney’s and Doctor’s are two I know.
“Mahoney Finishes
What makes my Utility oil better than other oil finishes? My Utility finish is 100% high linoleic acid walnut oil, completely natural and food safe. There are no chemical driers. The oil has been heat-treated to make the oil dry faster and to remove any possible allergens. Linoleic acid is a particular acid that is naturally found in walnut oil. It is a stabilizing agent that makes the oil’s shelf life longer than other natural oils. The oil penetrates deeply into the wood and becomes a permanent part of the wood. I recommend one heavy coat. Apply with a brush or paper towel. Let soak in and wipe off any excess.”
“Mahoney Finishes
What makes my Utility oil better than other oil finishes? My Utility finish is 100% high linoleic acid walnut oil, completely natural and food safe. There are no chemical driers. The oil has been heat-treated to make the oil dry faster and to remove any possible allergens. Linoleic acid is a particular acid that is naturally found in walnut oil. It is a stabilizing agent that makes the oil’s shelf life longer than other natural oils. The oil penetrates deeply into the wood and becomes a permanent part of the wood. I recommend one heavy coat. Apply with a brush or paper towel. Let soak in and wipe off any excess.”
Doctor's Woodshop Walnut Finishing Oil Doc - 106
WALNUT FINISHING OIL Overview: One-step food-safe finish Easy application Speeds sanding Helps prevents heat checking from sanding 16 oz bottle or gallon jug Description: Doctor’s Woodshop Walnut Finishing Oil can be used in the finishing process in two ways: First, it...
buffalowoodturningproducts.com
I just bought a bottle today, largely cause of this thread. I've seen it around, but wasn't sure how I'd use walnut oil as food. Now, if I never figure it out, I'll know it's good on wood. $8/12.68oz. I think that's a pretty good price.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
What's this about "speeds sanding"?Heat-treated walnut oil. Mahoney’s and Doctor’s are two I know.
“Mahoney Finishes
What makes my Utility oil better than other oil finishes? My Utility finish is 100% high linoleic acid walnut oil, completely natural and food safe. There are no chemical driers. The oil has been heat-treated to make the oil dry faster and to remove any possible allergens. Linoleic acid is a particular acid that is naturally found in walnut oil. It is a stabilizing agent that makes the oil’s shelf life longer than other natural oils. The oil penetrates deeply into the wood and becomes a permanent part of the wood. I recommend one heavy coat. Apply with a brush or paper towel. Let soak in and wipe off any excess.”
Doctor's Woodshop Walnut Finishing Oil Doc - 106
WALNUT FINISHING OIL Overview: One-step food-safe finish Easy application Speeds sanding Helps prevents heat checking from sanding 16 oz bottle or gallon jug Description: Doctor’s Woodshop Walnut Finishing Oil can be used in the finishing process in two ways: First, it...buffalowoodturningproducts.com
I hadn't thought about oiling before sanding.
I have lots of spalted maple. Is there something to use that will firm up the wood, and be food- safe?
In my market, plant- based oil would be way better than food- safe mineral oil from petroleum.
I bought some sanding sealer, but haven't used it, yet. Is that not food-safe? I haven't looked into it, yet.
pigwot
M's, Juniper's, Lowen’s, and Inge’s Grandpa
If spalted wood goes a little too far toward punky it is difficult to work and finish.
I didn’t realize you were looking for an aid in sanding.
I thought you were looking for an ultimate finish.
Not really sure what to use to firm it up for better sanding I’ve had mixed results with different products , and they are not food safe…
I didn’t realize you were looking for an aid in sanding.
I thought you were looking for an ultimate finish.
Not really sure what to use to firm it up for better sanding I’ve had mixed results with different products , and they are not food safe…
SeanKroll
Treehouser
I'll looking to learn anything.
I have different food and non-food related ideas.
I have different food and non-food related ideas.
Burnham
Woods walker
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SeanKroll
Treehouser
It's beautiful, just not for framing.
Kaveman
Treehouser
There's a saying among framers: "We ain't building a piano, just the box you put it in."
Guess Sean's coming at it from ta other way.
Lot of talent well beyond my humble skills on display in this thread.
Guess Sean's coming at it from ta other way.
Lot of talent well beyond my humble skills on display in this thread.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
I'd like to make some utensils.
These are other people's work.
These are other people's work.
Sanding sealer is food safe when cured.
You can use Danish oil to firm up spaltet wood.
Thin the oil with some turpentine or something, then apply as much as the wood can soak up.
Leg cure for a month or so, then repeat with straight oil.