Wood Boiler with Oil Backup

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The thing is that there is a lot if higher education in the treehouse, just not always your what you learn in school kind.
A bunch of letters or degrees behind a persons signature is not always a certainty of an educated person .Never judge a book by it's cover .;) The school of the streets or its cousin the school of hard knocks have turned out some pretty bright personalities .
 
I have a wood heating system. Had it for about 9 years now..

I burn for 3 hrs and have heat for 2 day's if it isn't under freezing point. Hot water included.
Heat is stored in water tanks in basement. in one of them there is a heater for hot water.
I burn about 25 cubic meters per winter (I think about 2 1/2 cord).
Inverted fire, ceramic combustion chamber this will give what we here call "blue flame burning".
Really high temps that burn up most things, like a cathlic (?) converter almost...
Nails burn even..

If I am prevented to make fire there is a electric option...
 
I have a wood heating system. Had it for about 9 years now..

Inverted fire, ceramic combustion chamber this will give what we here call "blue flame burning".
If I am prevented to make fire there is a electric option...
Evidently it's a type of secondary gas burner much like the wood stove I designed and built during the late 70's .

If so that is very efficiant design, uses less wood .Gives off little polution because most of the gasses and tars in the wood are consumed in the fire .
 
Catholic burner, just struck me as funny!
It's catalytic Magnus

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Evidently it's a type of secondary gas burner much like the wood stove I designed and built during the late 70's .

If so that is very efficiant design, uses less wood .Gives off little polution because most of the gasses and tars in the wood are consumed in the fire .

Yes, it is like a secondary burning, but converted so it burn down, not up.. The ceramic is what is the key to the higher temps.
 
Yes, it is like a secondary burning, but converted so it burn down, not up.. The ceramic is what is the key to the higher temps.
Yes,it's basically the same as the one I built . I actually did not totaly design it but altered an already existing design . I think that due to the fact a downdraft fire box takes up more room plus it requires a little bit more attention when being stoked is one of the reasons they never caught on in this country .Plus of course the simple fact being that a plate steel wood stove will last for decades before it needs replaced .
 
If you're thinking on possibly moving one day already, then sure enough you will. I'd go with quality but traditional set-up. I'm betting the oil furnace with a woodstove upstairs will be your cheapest set-up that will sell well when the day comes. Ime a woodheater on the mainfloor of a full basement home will not really get you as warm as I like it though. I would not spend alot of money for a fancy type stove or burner when a good old woodstove in the basement will keep a house heated easily. I laugh at people that complain about woodheat as being 'hard'. Get off your ass people!:P
 
...I burn about 25 cubic meters per winter (I think about 2 1/2 cord)...

25 cubic meters is 6.9 cords (~883ft<sup>3</sup>).

That's a lot of wood to a Southerner! That's roughly $1-1.1k worth of wood, right?


The latent heat capacity of water combined with its abundance is intriguing. Is it an open or closed system? Or asked another way does your buffer tank/hot storage tank feed the house or a heat exchanger?
 
Yes,it's basically the same as the one I built . I actually did not totaly design it but altered an already existing design . I think that due to the fact a downdraft fire box takes up more room plus it requires a little bit more attention when being stoked is one of the reasons they never caught on in this country .Plus of course the simple fact being that a plate steel wood stove will last for decades before it needs replaced .

By having the downdraft fire box you get to hale long tubes especially if it turns in front as mine do. that means you get a lot of wall surface with water that absorb heat.
If I have around 1200c in the fire channel, it has never above 280c as it leave furnest.

The heat is stored in tanks in basement to be used for day's... Without burning in furnest.

Loading of the tanks is controlled so it begin as furnest reach operational temp 78c. It holds this temp as it loads the tanks with a thermal valve.
This means that the furnest is giving 100% all the time.

I think this will last me another 10-15 years...

For me oil is not a option as I would have to pay 14 000SEK/cubic meter and burn about 3/ year to a cost of 42 000SEK = $6 268,66
Gas is about as hard to get as a private nuclear plant..
Electric would be about same as oil...
Heat pump is a option, especially Air to water pump as I have water system. Pump and things needed go to about $13 000 and it lasts about 10 years.
Deep drill to water, Ground to water about the same.
 
25 cubic meters is 6.9 cords (~883ft<sup>3</sup>).

That's a lot of wood to a southerner!

OK. good to know!
I was told it was about 2 face cords on 15cubic split wood tipped of in a pile.

It is about normal here for a furnest burner...
I burn everyday 3 months and in summer once on 4-5 day's, mostly for hot water.
 
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If you're thinking on possibly moving one day already, then sure enough you will. I'd go with quality but traditional set-up. I'm betting the oil furnace with a woodstove upstairs will be your cheapest set-up that will sell well when the day comes. Ime a woodheater on the mainfloor of a full basement home will not really get you as warm as I like it though. I would not spend alot of money for a fancy type stove or burner when a good old woodstove in the basement will keep a house heated easily. I laugh at people that complain about woodheat as being 'hard'. Get off your ass people!:P

I think that's what's going to happen, Squish.

The Vermont Castings stove I have can heat an 8500 square foot house according to the manual, should do 1500sq' pretty easily I recon.
 
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