Wayne's Ramblingz

[Jonny]

The JailBrake is odd looking. I’ve seen the videos, and it does seem to work well, but it also doesn’t seem to do anything a porty can’t do.

Regarding your question about the Samathane coating, I’m almost certain it’s the same stuff on Tenex and Stable Braid. Shouldn’t be a big deal if you’re just using it as a rigging line, but if you’re splicing eyes in the SB, you’ll probably see the stuff rubbing off a bit.

If you’re looking to save a few bucks, I’d highly recommend Maple Leaf Ropes house brands. I got a spool of their polyester/nylon double braid, it’s great rope. If you’re interested, I’d probably be down to split a 600’ spool of their 1/2” coated all polyester (like stable braid) with you. I gotta check if the spool alone is enough to get free shipping or if I gotta add anything else.
I guess they’ll have different diameters of that rope available in June, I only need the 1/2” though.

Polyester High Tenacity Double Braid Coated Bull Rope ropes - Lowest prices, free shipping | Maple Leaf Ropes

www.mapleleafropes.com

 

[SeanKroll]

Except that I also use my porty as a link when pulling trees with Dyneema rope and a winch , none.
Might want to splice up something to hold the Porty up when attached to the tree.
Main problem with Portys IMO is that they tend to hang down and induce slack in the system.

I already carry many multipurpose, inexpensive ratcheting tie down straps.

I choke the sling above the POW, buckle down. Out of the way. Easy to tighten, as ratchet straps have MA levers built in.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Am i the only one who uses a shackle to attach a porty to a sling?

No. I will if I feel the pull is going to be more than a 50kn screw link steel crab will take. Never broke those crabs yet.

 

[Mesquite]

do you feel its best to use a connector to connect the sling to the porty?
instead of girth hitching the sling to the porty?

has anyone tried nylon tubular webbing as a chafe sleeve?
i was a the local outdoors store and they have tubular webbing 1inch for $.35 and 2 inch for $.65 per foot. they feel exactly the same as the chafe sleeve just 2 or 3 bucks cheaper per foot. and for that $$$ i could change out the nylon quite a few times before i break even.

 

[SkwerI]

You are officially in the 'spend as much money as I can on gear' stage of your career. We all have been through it. My only suggestion is to try and postpone any new gear purchase for 30 days. If you still feel you really really need it after thirty days then buy it. I went through it in the early 2000's. I was spending $4-5000 per year at Sherrill until I bought my first bucket truck. Then I was spending $10k per year fixing the bucket truck.

 

[Mesquite]

i know you are right skwerl. i NEED it all!!! no wait... alright just the essentials !!!

im not cheap i spend money where i need to but there is something in the back of my brain that says i could make that or i can make that better, or i need to do this to that to make it how i need it.

that seems like a lot of $$$ but looking at catalogs it is not hard at all to spend that much

 

[CurSedVoyce]

When hanging porty from tree on a dead eye, girth hitch. When pulling with a machine or continuous rope puller (come-a-long) then a carabiner or shackle. Sometimes i need to use a large loopie and that would require a crab or shackle.
Clear as mud?
Yes Ive used chafe guard. But it is a PITA to girth hitch through it. Better for a crab or shackle.

 

[Mesquite]

load and clear big buddy!

browsing around i found a pretty strong beanr from CMI that i thought i would share with yous for cheaper than other ones that strong. its advertised as its MBS of 14600lbs and its not overly huge at 4 and a quarter tall. they only want $21.10 for the thing and they have free shipping to the continental usa

Steel Modified 'D' Autolock Carabiner(BINER6)

MBS: major-14,600/minor-2,600 Size: 4.25 x 2 3/8 / 13/16 Weight: 6.9oz

cmigearusa.com

and a link to there cosmetic seconds, i have bought some of them and the pulleys were worst off after i used them, than how they came. what im mean to say is that the pulleys only had a small blemish in the coating or the steel plates they were not 100% smooth. i continue to by more of them as needed. plus to find why they were cosmetic seconds i really had to look hard to find them.

Search: 2 results found for "cosmetic seconds"

American made products designed for climbers, mountaineers, arborists, ropes course professionals, and fire service and industrial safety experts.

cmigearusa.com

Jonny have you used that rope before? if so was there any downside to them over the stable braid?

also jonny you mentioned that you use fly cordage,, is that the teufelberger kernmantle stuff? if so can you tell that it has more elongation/stretch than your other climb lines? and can you tell if your xstatic is more static than hyperclimb?

 

[Mesquite]

I have been thinking about some rigging techniques and how you use like a nylon webbing endless loop to hook to the limb. Like how you would speed lining

Instead of the webbing slings what do you think about making some slings out of tenex? It would be just as strong if not stronger. Connect the rope with a beanr to the tenex and let her rip!

Could you guys see reason not to use tenex?

 

[Ryan]

I got my brother to fabricate a port a wrap from a picture I showed him. He used the materials he had and did an ok job I think. I've only used it once and it's heavier than fu--.

 

[Tree09]

The webbing slings are nice because they don't snag on the bark like tenex does. Speedline slings need to be quick and easy to take on and off, otherwise you end up screwing around too much. 3 strand works great for little slings too. I get that technically the steel biner is strong enough, but I'm a fan of shackles. Far bigger wll, and they don't care about abuse or side loading, unlike a biner. Especially since it flips and flops around in use, using a biner there just doesn't seem right to me, the gate is an unnecessary risk. There's a bunch of industrial rigging accidents that happened because someone used a biner instead of a shackle, it's a similar connection but it's not the same. .02

 

[Mesquite]

I could see how you could put those two together but I don't plan on using beanr and slings. I was just showing you guys those steal beanrs. Bcuz most of the arb shops sell steal beanr that 50 plus kn for easy $50 or more.

I'm trying to figure out the cheapest yet strongest way to use slings to lower limbs.

 

[Mesquite]

@Ryan thank you for sharing. I'm assuming you anchor threw an eye bolt, and then how to do run the line around it? Do you feed the rigging rope threw the other eye bolt? Can you use it mid line attachable?

 

[Altissimus]

... Not to disagree but other than rigging for pull I never use Shackles aloft , for lower time I have a big hook w keeper on the end of the line , use slings web and rope on the limbs and chunks. Mostly attach to the hook with those stainless non lockers

 

[lxskllr]

Could you guys see reason not to use tenex?

How much weight? The light duty webbing slings on wesspur aren't much more money than tenex by the foot, and the webbing slings are done. Just open the package and use them.

 

[Mesquite]

The slings wood be used for light rigging. I saw this video and was like I have to try this. It looks like the beat way to rig limbs the only downside is that you can only rig without getting out of the tree as many slings as you have.




So I got 3/8 tenex tec(6100lbs)for 50 cents a foot, 1/2 tenex tec Is 13100lbs at 70 cents a foot
I'm thinking of some smaller ones at an adjustable size from 1 to two foot in diameter and maybe a few longer ones at 3 to 4 foot I was thinking of Loopie but probably an end to end splice would work great. And I will throw the tenex inside some 1 inch Nylon tubular webbing at .35 cents a foot. I'm thinking I'm going to have to splice one up to night and see how she works.
. A 1/2 galvanized bow shackle from wesspur is $6, it carries a 24k wll

A nylon speed line sling is $15to21 per. One inch Nylon slings around 5k.
All prices are wesspur 2021 catalog. They have yet to deliver my 2022 catalog and I ordered it at least a week ago and I'm in there 3 day shipping area. WTF haha

So even if I spend ten buck instead of 15 to 20 depending o the length I would still be able to make more of them right off the bat especially since I have 70 feet of 3/8 tenex tec in me back pocket.

 

[Altissimus]

This "Solo Rigging" ... Careful not to drop the pin on the Bow Shackle. Just going on my experience s

 

[Ryan]

@Ryan thank you for sharing. I'm assuming you anchor threw an eye bolt, and then how to do run the line around it? Do you feed the rigging rope threw the other eye bolt? Can you use it mid line attachable?

I anchored through one eye and wrapped the lowering rope around both sides of the cross. It can be used midline. I guess you could have the rope thru the other eye but it might become a nuisance with continuous sets. I used it once. It was one of those things I thought I needed but never use. Most of the trees I do are small enough to bomb or cut and chuck. Any lowering doesn't usually need any wraps.

 

[Mesquite]

The shackles that I take up with me all have a loop of something tied through the pin hole. But I think I came up with a better idea, a snap shackle like in the link. I will just have a roll of some Para cord or something light and small to have it connected to me and let it lay to the ground so when the limb gets there I just pull the paracord release the sling and I can pull the line back up to myself. Nothing could go wrong!

4.75" Stainless Pin Release Snap Shackle with Swivel Eye (WLL 2000 lbs)

SWIVEL SNAP SHACKLE T316 SS 4-3/4"

www.riggingwarehouse.com

 

[Mesquite]

And looking at 12 strand eye to eye splices to get 2 foot in length and that is even cutting the bury a hair short. I would need at least 6 foot of rope. I think a Loopie would give me more adjustability and I would be able to fit more tubular webbing on the loope. With 70 inches of rope I made a Loopie that is 35 in length at its longest. So I think I'm going to make a couple whoopies and loopies with the secret tubular chafe guards at different lenghts short and shorter and see what I like the most and go from there.

Wow alot happens in the course of a couple of hours

 

[CurSedVoyce]

I use the nylon loop runners from Baileys. They often color code for size. Orange, Red,yellow, purple. Makes life easier with a groundie or homeowner help. Size matters, easier to call out a color. Ask some one to show you how long 2' is between their hands and measure the results. Yeah.
Then add some either Steel screw lock biners for lowering or non locking aluminum for zip lining. Easy peasy. Brian turned me onto the Kong large D screw lock. Wesspur has them. There are a cheaper version on ebay that hold up fine as well.
Aluminum was a black diamond non locking on Gear expess he turned me onto. I think they have been discontinued. But I'll look them up shortly if he does not chime in.

Speed Line Kits & Loop Runners - Rigging - Arborist & Tree Care

www.baileysonline.com

Carabiner D Steel Screw Lock

Steel connector for work at heights

rope-master.com

Camp has a closeout looks a lot like it with a 20mm opening. Large opening of the gate is important for getting the rope in.

CAMP Orbit Straight Gate Carabiner - Blue - CLOSEOUT - Gear Express

<p><span style="font-size: medium;">The update to the best-selling <strong>Orbit</strong> keylock carabiner increases the major axis and open gate strengths without increasing weight. The <strong>Orbit</strong> remains a solid workhorse for everyday climb

www.gearexpress.com

 

[lxskllr]

That quick release shackle is kind of interesting. I don't think I'd trust a quick release anything in a rigging scenario where failure would mean destruction. I'd also be a little leery of having a cord follow the load down, and not interfere, but it's worth a try. Only thing I'd suggest to not attach the release cord physically to yourself or your climbing setup, and manage your tail so it won't wrap around anything you're attached to, or anything at all really. If it got hung up, you could drop the load.

 

[Altissimus]

Looked , would never trust such a thing w loads plus a long light line to it is asking for trouble imo ... the fact is when you need someone on the ground , you need someone on the ground. Usually when you need to lower material is where it starts.

 

[SeanKroll]

I use tied ( beer knot) nylon slings with aluminum biners for light rigging, along with sewn nylon and dyneema slings.

Steel snap-hook or biner as appropriate.


KISS.

 

[Mesquite]

I agree with using a ground when rigging but the reality is I am currently looking for such side kick. Unfortunately I don't know anyone to fill that position. Would you like to move to tucson to become partners? So untill I can find someone I have to do what I have to do.

I regards to the snap shackle I would think that the rope that is attached to the release would already go all the way to the ground. But for the time being that idea is on the back burner. I don't have the time or desire to experiment with it. Who knows how it will work and how durable it will be I might as well stick to what has already been proven. Even though I love to reinvent the wheel, this isn't the time.

Hey cursed thanks for the link, definitely a great deal!