Wayne's Ramblingz

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #78
Hey guys I stumbled across this guy on youtube today. He does awesome stuff and has alot of dyi tree gear videos. I thought the way he makes these porta wraps is brilliant. his playlist tree work is where the fun is at


 
It occurs to me that doubling an anchor rope through the ring and using a tensionlesss hitch/ tension less anchor would give a basket configuration...way stronger.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #82
I'm not talking about trying to buy one from him. I like his ideas about using shackles and attaching one to a receiver.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #83
@ Sean like girth hitching with a bight of the rope to a porty and then using something like a timber or cow hitch?
 
The problem with welding on shackles is the fact that they are high carbon hardened steel, which is prone to cracking when you weld it. Especially when you weld it with a mig welder, cold. He was trying to solve the problem of building the loop, but he doesn't know what he's doing so he made a bad decision to try to use a shackle like that. He would have been far better off to just buy some solid bar stock, heat and bend it, then weld it. Kinda exactly how they build them. I used heavy pipe and fittings when i built mine, but most people don't come across stuff like that just sitting around :/: if i build another i would likely just do the boat anchor style, far easier to build and you can run 2 ropes on it. His bollard is textbook cold roll too, that'll chase him up the tree when he drops anything that weighs more than an empty keg on it. In my experience he knows just enough to kill himself, and if he uses that crap he likely will.
 
Stehanson made two for me. Or was it three. I forget.
Anyway, shit simple to just heat some 1/2 round stock with oxy acetylene and bend it around the bollard it is going on to get the shape and size needed. Then weld to bollard. Not rocket science and round stock is not terribly expensive
 
Kyle with the welding info- loving it!! I do a lot of things myself but won’t attempt welding- not on anything critical. Portawraps are cheap.

Metaspencer is fun/educational to watch as he’s a 1 man band with a minimalist setup. Mimics lots of folks starting out such as myself.
 
I can solder and braze very well. Tried those rods that “weld” non ferrous metals (excluding stainless) to make an aluminum jig for the router to flatten live edge slabs. Mixed success. Never attempted anything beyond that. Not that I wouldn’t like to.
 
I was talking about a stick welder, but if you want to weld with a torch you can, but you need oxygen too. Far higher skill level to do it with a torch.
 
Ok. Yeah, I’m pretty ignorant to the terminology. I’ll google stick welding. Picture of the type of rods I used on the jig and a couple joints. Seemed like it had to be really clean and scratched as well as HOT but not so hot that the aluminum would liquify. Used acetylene torch with #4 tip. It would be fun to weld my own legs for the live edge tables.
 

Attachments

  • 2466E39A-CF46-4BAA-8BAC-354864E875FE.jpeg
    2466E39A-CF46-4BAA-8BAC-354864E875FE.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 5
  • 8D1F9DAD-45EA-42F4-A736-15F671CD2553.jpeg
    8D1F9DAD-45EA-42F4-A736-15F671CD2553.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 5
I got an FTC Micro Cylinder now, and that’s my go-to lowering device, but I still got my homemade bollard, and a couple portys of various size.

I had a friend build the homemade one for me, he machined the I beam so the pipe will fit, and beveled the edge of the pipe to get a full penetration weld with the tig machine at his work. Tabs made from angle welded on the side of the I beam, with a hole drilled in the tab to fit a steel carabiner. For the strap, I bought a 10K lb 2” ratchet strap, cut the hooks it, and stuck biners in place of the hooks.

Later on, I bolted a small boat trailer winch to the side of it, took the handle off the winch because it won’t clear the drum. Welded the nut that held the handle in place, and just use a 15” ratchet and socket for a winch handle. So I put a prusik on the rope above where it feeds into the drum, clip the biner on the end of the winch webbing to the prusik, and ratchet away while it pretty much winches the rope so it can just be captured on the drum. Can keep that progress captured on the drum and let the winch strap out, push the prusik up again and do it as many times as needed. Totally stole the winch idea from one that Stein device. Not nearly as fast as a GRCS, but allows me to do some lifting and really hard pre-tensioning.

I really prefer fixed bollards to portys.

070B9D08-E5F1-4F1F-BBBF-EC20F9320D5C.gif 96CB0B09-3480-40C9-8F4D-03D069A220EC.jpeg
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #95
thank you for the lesson, i really appreciate it. before seeing the video i had talked it over with my uncle my resident pro and came to the conclusion that its a better idea to just by one than make it. because the time and material to build one that i would build it would just be cheaper and easier to just buy one.

i have a question about samson rigging ropes specifically stable braid and nystron, it is covered with samsons coating, does the coating ge on your hands like the tenex coating? i have to wear gloves while splicing tenex because my hands look like a just yanked a smurf ( i have blue tenex). i dont know if there is a difference in the wesspur catalog it says the tenex has the samthane coating and the stable braid has samthane type a. i dont know if there is a difference between the two.


i am thinking for my porty that i am going to make a dedicated sling for it and splice it with one of the loopie lines threw the anchor point and use it in a choked configuration. has anyone done that and is there any downsides that you can think of having the porty spliced directly to its sling?
 
Except that I also use my porty as a link when pulling trees with Dyneema rope and a winch , none.
Might want to splice up something to hold the Porty up when attached to the tree.
Main problem with Portys IMO is that they tend to hang down and induce slack in the system.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #99
Stig do use the dyneema for a sling or the pull line?

Im thing about using a ratcheting tie down strap to hold it up. I have a few of them they are cheap in my eye but rated for a 1000lbs wll so it should be more than sufficient to hold the porty up. Im pretty sold on the stein rc2000 witch has an eye up top to hold it up. I figure that will get me by for the time being untill the budget allows for one of those fancy bollards.

Have you guys seen the jailbreak friction device? I like the idea but i dont like the price. But it the same price as a fancy bollard.

I dont know if you posted this pic tree09man but in the pic all the pulleys had thier own shackle, pulleys with the rotating sheeves. It made me wonder and if it wasnt you than there are more people out there just like you
 
Last edited:
Pull line.
I use an ordinary Porty when we påull with the 4 ton winch.
For when we pull with forwarders, skidders and other big machinery, because in my work, a skid steer just doesn't cut it, I have a a mega porty manufactured.
You could probably hang the USS Nimitz off of that.
Useless for tree work, though, so we use the GRCS instead.
 
Back
Top