Wayne's Ramblingz

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I agree with using a ground when rigging but the reality is I am currently looking for such side kick. Unfortunately I don't know anyone to fill that position. Would you like to move to tucson to become partners? So untill I can find someone I have to do what I have to .
..... okay more advice , when I have stuff that should be lowered but lack ground I will make handleable size pieces (usually more climbing and cutting) , sling the piece above the cut and attach ed to a sling below the cut (my slings either have Carabiners or Hooks though there are exceptions). Cut it and let it hang safely while stowing saw , then with two free hands release and chuck the piece into to the hole. Repeat until done
 
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Another option (though rarely used , just to get the worst pieces done)... Have set a speedline a few times , tripped the rigged pieces to the hole , climb down to empty the hole , return to the top with the slings , repeat
 
Or have a shit ton of slings. I've about took apart a tree with that principle and a 3/8 stable braid line. Mini porty in tree to tension the line and move it about the tree as needed. Eventually my groundie should up and we lowered the rest of it. But most of the tree was already on the ground. Like 48 slings.
Yeah have plenty , but never the room to load up the hole like that
 
I was lucky I had a long lz. Groundie was like OMG! when he showed up. Came down to help chip. Only the stem left to lower. Little chit I just cut and chucked. Took 24 with me up and left 24 hitched to my tail on the ground. Just enough rope so when I needed them. Butts were all going the same way. But a lot of runners to unhook.
Good wake up for a groundie that thinks your world depends on him.
 
So I was contemplating about what set up on a whoopie is the strongest. Just imagine that the soft shackle and the metal one are equally strong.
 

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That thin sided stainless steel pulley may possibly cut through the ropes or straps under shock loading. You need something with a wider load edge for connecting to soft materials.
 
Ooo, that makes complete sense, thank you for opening my eyes to that. So at least a metal shackle no matter what I do.


HaS anyone used a double sheeve pullet as a redirect for drt?
 

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Would work fine. I never used anything more than a biner on a loop runner. Worked great, not worth spending more time for anything more complicated.
 
That's why arborist blocks have a sheave attachment point, not just a hole.
So, what Lxskiler and Skwerl said, that sharp edge on textile is no goood
 
ROPE , DO NOT EVER RIG BELOW THE MINIMUM SAFE BEND RADIUS
Rigging over biners is always below the minimum.

Light loads don't matter.

When dealing with any real loads, bend- radius is important.


Textile-to-metal connections need to be built for it.
 
The girth hitch is not your best choice, either. Far weaker than the basket hitch, for example.

I've used the double sheave pulley for drt redirect, worked nicely.
 
Thank you for the advice, i havent rigged anything of size, so I'm glad to have been set straight before i do.

I thinking aboot thr rope wrench and at this point im going with the cheaper option with the tether. Do you guys recommend any?
 
Mesquite,
I had a similar question to your “pulley for drt redirect” I asked here a while back. It brought up the fact that every single piece of rigging gear and climbing gear are to remain completely separated systems with no components sharing between the 2 applications. You may already know this but figured it was worth mentioning.
 
What about if you only use pulleys for a mechanical advantage? Those will ever see is a slow static Pull. I understand not using pulleys that are going to see dynamic forces
 
Ya gotta know the rules before you can break them. With a lot of things, there's "by the book", and then there's hacky modifiers that violate the book rules. You should know the difference before you break the rules. Rigging off your hitchtending pulley in a time of need isn't as big deal as rigging off your suspension pulley you use in the canopy. In the former case, if it fails in a climbing scenario, you have to tend your hitch yourself. Irritating, but no big deal. In the latter case, it could fail and drop you.

Same thing with rigging off your climblines. You might use your tail for some very light rigging, and it won't hurt to climb on it later. It's bad policy, and it's best not to do it at all, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. In any case, "by the book" is usually the best way to go, and you should try to adhere to it.

For rigging off rigging pulleys, you can do what you want, minding the forces and capacities involved. It's always gonna be harder on a pulley than a block though, and the gear won't last as long. If you're getting close to capacity, you have to decide what the consequences of failure are. May or may not be a big deal.
 
I generally won't. Like on my z rig pulleys, those stay in the rigging bag. The double sheeve like you showed, I bought one for ddrt redirect, used it a couple times, But then pretty much switched over to SRT save for descent on occassion. Now it serves occassional use as MA when I do cabling if I tension lesser limbs up in the tree for install on a 3:1. I would not be afraid to use it as a redirect as I know Ive never strained it. But that is pretty much a moot point climbing SRT. i can tell you this. I fubared a double sheeve pulley on a 5:1. Buggered the bushing it rides on. So that sheeve started to tilt a hair and rubbed the cheeks. Thing would cut finger or rope after that so it found an aluminium recycle bin. Funny, how after I retired it to a bin in the shed, it kept finding its way back in the pulling bag. Pissed me off. Like why would anyone put a buggered piece of rigging back after its retired. Some one(no names) decided to use it to pull on something and I guess saw it and used it. The excuse was, " I wasn't using the good rope". Never mind forces involved and something fails.
So good practice says, don't climb on gear used for rigging. Because. Just cause you don't see any damage, does not mean there isn't any. And of course, cycles to failure.
The day we buggered that set of pulleys we were pulling 800# plus lb water soaked logs out of a creek with the portable winch and high block on 5:1. That winch is rated to pull 1500#. Add some resistance. Amazing nothing completely failed. Those pulleys wererated at 30kn as I recall.
 
I have read at least 20 times about the don't mix the rigging with the climbing, and fortunately I have not crossed the line, yet. Thank you Mike, for saying something because it was the last thing on my mind but its one of those learning moments that is the time that i think it sunk in. understanding what your gear has been through is a vital part to being safe in this industry. watching these two videos below amazes me at what can be accomplished with the right gear




 
i got a Stein RC 2000 on the way and am going to be using it next week, naturally i have a few questions. i have used a porta wrap in the past and know the basics of how they work but it has been a while since the last time i used one. so any tips or tricks would be hugely appreciated!!!

i was thinking of using a dead eye sling with a cow hitch or timber hitch. since i already have a dead eye. what is a good length for a dead eye i currently have 40 feet for rope that the dead eye is on and was going to cut it down to size to make a loopie out of the other side for my 2 ton cmi block.

do you think a loopie or whoopie connected to the porty via shackle would be stronger than a dead eye? also the sling rope im talking about is 5/8ths tenex, the wll is 4000lbs of the porty so in the long run, should the 5/8ths be strong enough. or if i start to play with some bigger logs should i get some 3/4 tenex?

NOW im not going to be taking big pieces at all this job or probably the next few jobs but the more comfortabler i get and the more experience the groundie gets in theory i should be able to take more weight at a time.


thank you all for yoz time

wayne
 
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