Tree felling vids

David, pruning for the berries is enough whenever you need, and take the worst looking fronds off IF needed and they are over 50% narked.
I used to prune palms for berries, flower spikes and heavy clusters of coconuts. Usually they were dropping detritus (nectar, spent flowers, fabric and berries) where it wasn't wanted, and coconuts over beaches or restaurants.
Also coconuts came off before hurricane season so as not to become missiles.
 
I remember something like this before, guys cutting high value walnut trees like this.
If it wasn’t worth it, they wouldn’t do it
(I didn’t watch all the vid btw, have to go to work)
 
I think that was talked about here before. I can't remember what thread it was in, but it didn't have video. The video explains it more easily.
 
Why not just grab a spade and dig it out.
Be faster.
I just happen to be a professional veneer cutter, and that method makes no sense to me......none!

BTW because I'm a professional, I wear ppe when cutting veneer.
 
Here's the thread on the topic...

Spur cut or also called Flat cut explained

Al asked about a flat cut in another thread. First off DON'T DO THIS, YOU HAVE NO CONTROL OVER WERE THE TREE IS GOING TO FALL!!! There is no hinge wood or face cut. You start with a with high powered saw 066 or equivalent size. 090's were used a lot for this also. The bar only needs to go half...
www.masterblasterhome.com
 
stig said:
Why not just grab a spade and dig it out.
Be faster.
I just happen to be a professional veneer cutter, and that method makes no sense to me......none!

BTW because I'm a professional, I wear ppe when cutting veneer.
Click to expand...
Now I am very interested to know how you cut veneer trees. I have a general idea from posts here but still curious.
 
davidwyby said:
I’m pretty sure I have posted these before cuz burnham and I went round about them. The Carson car trailer in my vids with the little trees is pretty heavy duty, 6” frame, steel deck. This miller tilt top is much heavier, it’s a mini heavy equipment trailer. It also has a hydraulic cylinder converted to a damper for the tilt which absorbs some shock, along with the limbs on the trailer. These trees were the ones where the guy climbed the boards nailed to the tree, and got caught in the top and yanked out of the tree when he topped it…a large top. At least 20’ up. Him surviving was a miracle. Or not landing under the top really.


That’s the top on the ground behind me in this one:



I use the trick whenever I can. I would not do it with heavy green wood or eucalyptus of any size. Dry pine is very light. I don’t have vid but I once dropped an ironbark on 16’ trailer and 20’ truck, then cut the center at the hitch out. It was a tall tree but skinny trunk, all fluffy limbs. I cut it with a 20” bar. Worked a charm…


I thought about the lowering trick, but concern about pulling it backward off the stump. From a high point would be better.

I was thinking about maybe a triple hinge and making the entire face a tall soft Dutchman. Maybe cut two wedges out of the top of the face on either side, creating a wedge to crush down through the Dutchman…then winch the tree down onto the trailer with the Winch in the truck.

It all requires a good seat of the pants feel for how much one can get away with….and if I ever did break a trailer, I have a big machine and welding shop…
Click to expand...

Lots of face and back kerfs could extend the vertical length of the hinge and allow it to flex in more places, so it holds together better slowing down the fall.
 
With Beech we cut them almost as low as the video shows.
Because Beech veneer is peeled and having the root flares intact keeps the bottom end of the log from splitting which Beech is prone to do as soon as it is cut.
A split log can't be peeled.
We also hammer S-shaped iron inserts across any naturally occurring splits or shakes to keep them from getting worse.
Once the log is boiled at the veneer plant, they cut the bottom off, that is scrapped.
Since most of our logs go to China these days ( It costs hardly anything to ship logs to China!) they have to hold together for quite some time.

I had one log some 15 years ago that split 4 ways and the end curled up like the petals of a flower.
Wish I had taken a picture, worst case I've ever seen.

Apart from that I don't cut them different from anything else.
Gut the hinge, bit of stump shot and down she goes.
 
As far as jacks go, what would be wrong with using a bottle jack? I have a shorty 20 ton that i maybe got for $100, it'll flat out move some stuff. Wood crushing would be the limiting factor, but a piece of plate on top and bottom really helps with that. We (fitters) have used them a bunch for different stuff, even pushing sideways (just put the bleeder valve on top).
 
Tree09 said:
As far as jacks go, what would be wrong with using a bottle jack? I have a shorty 20 ton that i maybe got for $100, it'll flat out move some stuff. Wood crushing would be the limiting factor, but a piece of plate on top and bottom really helps with that. We (fitters) have used them a bunch for different stuff, even pushing sideways (just put the bleeder valve on top).
Click to expand...
I was thinking the same. Just don't use harbor freight junk, and make your own.
 
Honestly i had a harbor freight one too, worked fine till i left it outside so long it rusted up a bit. I loaned my other one out (got it at tsc or farm king i think, can't remember but it was in a different state for pipeline) so i was thinking of pulling it apart and cleaning it up again til i remember who i loaned it to :lol: man those things are so handy, with a couple of attachments you can do all sorts of stuff with them.
 
I didn't think about the angle that's a good point. Thx man, obviously not gonna replace one but i was curious about the differences, also don't have trees here that would even require one, especially ones i would get involved with.
 
Tree09 said:
I didn't think about the angle that's a good point. Thx man, obviously not gonna replace one but i was curious about the differences, also don't have trees here that would even require one, especially ones i would get involved with.
Click to expand...
Yeah Kyle, might not be as significant on a smaller tree but as they get larger that sideways force increases on the jack. I know a smart fella like you can see why it happens.
 
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