Tree felling vids

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Here's a take down I did for a co worker about a week and a half ago, finally got time to edit and upload..... :)

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/--h-QFT8Vk8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Ayuh,
much faster to tie. I wasn't in a hurry at all, my main concern was safety because of the location of the tree.
I knew that it was going to take a hard pull to get the tree to stand back up and fall into the woods so I tied
the bowline with a yosemite 'cause it doesn't "lower" the rope strength as much as a running bowline(if I understand
the way those two knots work with the rope). I haven't been able to test the end to end splice I put on my 3/4"
bull rope yet so I had to use my 9/16" and I didn't want to worry about the rope failing. If I had more experience I'm
sure I would have more confidence in it..... :\: Of course I could have wrapped the rope around the trunk 4 or 5 times
and gotten over 90% of the rope strength, but I didn't think of doing that 'til right now.....:|:
 
I'll give you some constructive ideas to build on. Take them or leave them but I mean them in a positive encouraging way. A running bowline is light years ahead of that clove hitch rig you were using. If you have able bodied men on the ground, make them run the rope, not you. Last, bore cutting didn't seem to fit the bill there. Bore cutting has its place. But leaving that with a holding strap of oak wood to try and crank over puts a lot of useless strain on your rope. I would have sooner suggested to notch the tree, crank on it a bit to tighten up, and cut through the back and leave a good sized hinge, crank some more, cut some more, crank, etc. Walk that tree over basically. That rope was tasked with pulling that tree against its lean, and also pulling hard enough to break an oak strap. That can add up. If you leave a good hinge after coming in from the back, combined with a tight rope, that tree would be held in place. In that case you can start putting the muscle to the hinge and letting the back cut start opening bit by bit in a controlled manner. A wedge pounded in the back would have stood the fella up a few degrees to get the ball rolling.
 
If I was looking to hire a climber and I had two applicants - all things being equal, I'd hire the one who used a running bowline.
 
I can't see the vid for some reason. But unless the tree is stout, the rope is old, and the pull is heavyduty than rope/knot strength with a bowline will not be an issue. Ime.
 
Tucker943 said:
I'll give you some constructive ideas to build on. Take them or leave them but I mean them in a positive encouraging way. A running bowline is light years ahead of that clove hitch rig you were using. If you have able bodied men on the ground, make them run the rope, not you. Last, bore cutting didn't seem to fit the bill there. Bore cutting has its place. But leaving that with a holding strap of oak wood to try and crank over puts a lot of useless strain on your rope. I would have sooner suggested to notch the tree, crank on it a bit to tighten up, and cut through the back and leave a good sized hinge, crank some more, cut some more, crank, etc. Walk that tree over basically. That rope was tasked with pulling that tree against its lean, and also pulling hard enough to break an oak strap. That can add up. If you leave a good hinge after coming in from the back, combined with a tight rope, that tree would be held in place. In that case you can start putting the muscle to the hinge and letting the back cut start opening bit by bit in a controlled manner. A wedge pounded in the back would have stood the fella up a few degrees to get the ball rolling.
Click to expand...

Thanks Chris,
I appreciate your feedback, mostly because it IS constructive criticism, I'll gratefully take that every time. Seems like I'm learning loads every time I take down a tree. I'll definitely keep all that for future reference, if I can remember it. I was thinking of going with a basic face and back cut and pulling but, I wasn't confident enough to do it. Next time. Thanks again Chris. :D

MasterBlaster said:
If I was looking to hire a climber and I had two applicants - all things being equal, I'd hire the one who used a running bowline.
Click to expand...

Does that mean I can apply if I start using a running bowline? :D

Bixler said:
You did a GREAT job Randy! Cool video and pics of the tree job.
Click to expand...

Thanks! :)

squisher said:
I can't see the vid for some reason. But unless the tree is stout, the rope is old, and the pull is heavyduty than rope/knot strength with a bowline will not be an issue. Ime.
Click to expand...

I'll be the first one to admit I don't have the experience to know the limits of my gear, so I go with what my limited experience shows me works. And probably a lot of times it's gonna be wrong, that's why I'm grateful for the feedback I get from you all here. I don't get pounded into the ground, I get help from people that have done what I just did a thousand times and know exactly what can/can't and should/shouldn't be done. I really do appreciate that. :D
 
I have a some of the same thoughts as constructive criticism. I have one or two to add. Quit using your climb line tail. take a second line to natural crotch with or shoot a line into the tree and have it already there. If it is good and high above you, less fooling around.
You also should have had your climb line on as soon as you started you ascent. Not.." well throw me that there HH and prussic please".. You should be set up for ALT, ready to go. Not when you hit your first branch union.
You are learning.. you have an open mind. Just tune it up a tad ;)
 
MasterBlaster said:
But, you understand the jist of what I'm saying... right? :drink:
Click to expand...

Ayuh. :)

CurSedVoyce said:
I have a some of the same thoughts as constructive criticism. I have one or two to add. Quit using your climb line tail. take a second line to natural crotch with or shoot a line into the tree and have it already there. If it is good and high above you, less fooling around.
You also should have had your climb line on as soon as you started you ascent. Not.." well throw me that there HH and prussic please".. You should be set up for ALT, ready to go. Not when you hit your first branch union.
You are learning.. you have an open mind. Just tune it up a tad ;)
Click to expand...

More good stuff. How do you guys remember all this? :dontknow:
Thanks Stephen, I really do appreciate you pointing those things out. :thumbupold:
 
I agree with Chris and Stephen. No bore cut, use a wedge in the back and cut a little bit deeper of a notch to allow gravity to help you a bit. It seemed like a lot of unnecessary strain on that line. I must say though, you are learning pretty quicky! :thumbup:
 
and while we're at it...
you can save a few seconds x infinity by making those cuts right at the shoulder the first time.. time really adds up, a few seconds here and a minute or two there can make shave an hour or two off the day
 
Yeah, there is no reason to cut twice on a removal. If you we're pruning I limb off it should be done to prevent tear out.
Hey at least you're not leaving stubs.
 
Yeah good job on the no stub thing. Randy, what do you think about using the "Murphy Step-cut"? It seemed like a good tree to do that on, especially when working without a partner. Slow and safe gets it done, always fun going to work with you.

Butch, the nice thing about that clove hitch is you can tie it one handed. :drink:
 
You can tie a Running Bowline with one hand, too ... with a little practice. ;)
 
I know I keep saying it but I really do appreciate all the feedback. One of the main reasons that I came to the 'House(and stayed)was
to try to learn to be a better tree worker in every way, and getting all this feedback is a huge encouragement. It probably sounds kinda
funny but, for me, this is "tree work 101". :thumbupold:
Now all I have to do is remember everything you all said long enough to put it to use..... :|:
Thanks again! :D
 
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