Tree felling vids

[stig]

Are you insane man???

BEARS!!!

Man. I didn't even think of that.

My only excuse is that the only bears we have here, Polar bears, will never be found in areas where trees grow.
So the risk of being eaten by one while bucking a log is nil.

Polar bears see humans as a food source, unlike Grizzly bears which will normally only attack if scared or annoyed.
Polar bears are bigger than Grizzly as well.

So, Butch, if you want a bear to be afraid of, choose a polar bear.

 

[MasterBlaster]

One of those will never eat me.

 

[pantheraba]

Only place you wedge a cut open is when you have to cut a log that is laying on something you don't want to get your chain into, like a road surface,
Then you cut from above, set wedges, cut till maybe a couple of inches from the bottom, then pound the crap out of the wedges.
This will make the log rise up , so you can cut through without damaging your chain.

Sorry if I'm telling you something that is common knowledge to your all.
I've no idea what people already know, so sometimes I'll just explain stuff at the risk of boring y'all.

Cool, Stig , I never heard of that. What you take for granted as common knowledge is uncommon as far as I'm concerned.

 

[stig]

You can easily see the physics in it, once it has been explained.

Glad there was at least one person I didn't bore to death.

 

[FireFighterZero]

Nope....good information.

 

[SeriousTreesAZ]

One of those will never eat me.

Ha Grizzly vs. 661

Find out how well it really cuts lol

 

[stig]

One of those will never eat me.

I think if a Polar bear ever made it to Louisiana, it would be too busy trying not to die from heat stroke to think of eating anybody.

 

[SeriousTreesAZ]

Why not notch the top and undercut it? Or bore from 2/3rds topside down and release with a light top cut? (Maybe wedge from two sides before coming back over the top?) Forgive me if this sounds unsafe, which is why I phrased it metaphorically

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Pretty much how I do it. Cut across top and back maybe a couple few inches in, pull bar back out but allowing tip to continue curf down front, bore back in 2/3 down the side and finish bottom, leaving enough wood up top and back to keep from binding. Back cut upwards to finish. Saw never left the wood. But, I guarantee you will pinch your saw as you are learning and misjudge how much wood to leave. Mind you, no side bind on the log helps.

 

[stig]

SerioustreesAZ, You lost me, sorry.
I can't figure out what either of those scenarios mean.

Can you try to explain in a way that non English speakers can understand.

My mental picture of the last one would result in a busted log and a bound up saw, so I surmise you mean something else than what I'm picking up.

 

[SeriousTreesAZ]

Pretty much how I do it. Cut across top and back maybe a couple few inches in, pull bar back out but allowing tip to continue curf down front, bore back in 2/3 down the side and finish bottom, leaving enough wood up top and back to keep from binding. Back cut upwards to finish. Saw never left the wood. But, I guarantee you will pinch your saw as you are learning and misjudge how much wood to leave. Mind you, no side bind on the log helps.

I can see that technique working well in the right hands.

 

[SeriousTreesAZ]

SerioustreesAZ, You lost me, sorry.
I can't figure out what either of those scenarios mean.

Can you try to explain in a way that non English speakers can understand.

My mental picture of the last one would result in a busted log and a bound up saw, so I surmise you mean something else than what I'm picking up.

I think to do it the way I just mentioned you'd have to wedge the log from both sides in order to prevent the pinch. You could probably bore 2/3rds from the top down all the way through the bottom and release the fibers on the top by cutting on either side of the original bored kerf? Kind of like the concept of a snap cut.

The technique Cursed Voyce explains is better though.

 

[stig]

I thik we are i a softwood versus hardwood thing here.
Tecniques that will work on softwood trees will not necessary work on hardwoods.
They are a lot less forgiving.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

I think to do it the way I just mentioned you'd have to wedge the log from both sides in order to prevent the pinch. You could probably bore 2/3rds from the top down all the way through the bottom and release the fibers on the top by cutting on either side of the original bored kerf? Kind of like the concept of a snap cut.

The technique Cursed Voyce explains is better though.

Wedge or not, you're likely to pinch your bar like that. The wedges act as pivot points when you cut the last bit and the kerf closes anyway on top. Cut the top first.
Or all the way from the bottom, but it's far less easy to cut upward and the log will split or shatter at the end.

The problem with the release with a cut from the bottom is that if you don't leave enough wood with the top cut, the logs will drive your bar in the dirt when they fall on the ground. I saw that many times with the relatively small diameters, say around 15". The "just enough wood left to not pinch your bar in the top cut" matches more or less the width of the bar/chain. Rimming all the way through from the top gave me often the same result in my trials. I found the way to limit that is finishing the cut only with the nose, nothing showing on the far side.

 

[SeriousTreesAZ]

Wedge or not, you're likely to pinch your bar like that. The wedges act as pivot points when you cut the last bit and the kerf closes anyway on top. Cut the top first.
Or all the way from the bottom, but it's far less easy to cut upward and the log will split or shatter at the end.

The problem with the release with a cut from the bottom is that if you don't leave enough wood with the top cut, the logs will drive your bar in the dirt when they fall on the ground. I saw that many times with the relatively small diameters, say around 15". The "just enough wood left to not pinch your bar in the top cut" matches more or less the width of the bar/chain. Rimming all the way through from the top gave me often the same result in my trials. I found the way to limit that is finishing the cut only with the nose, nothing showing on the far side.

Yeah I have pretty much almost no experience bucking 'big wood' in logging conditions(80"+ diameter) it was just a thought. Thanks for clearing that up. I learn something new every day!

 

[murphy4trees]

He was smart enough to stay behind the blocker tree... after that it was all talk about what was dangerous.... they might have said...hey, its an easy one ... you do it!

 

[pantheraba]

yep, could have been a classic set-up. He was very aware that his legs were at risk for some reason...survival instincts were running full tilt. At least he is paying attention to them.

 

[sotc]

I'm watching this thinking "what the heck is Stig posting this crap for?" Fortunately I scrolled through after watching the bucking scenario....
Stephen, exactly my process there. Though I will often set a wedge on top as a place holder in case that top log wants to slide down pinch my bar the moment the last sliver is severed. Then all i have to do is beat the wedge, not have to cut a groove to place a wedge

 

[CurSedVoyce]

YUP.

 

[murphy4trees]

I had a monster log pinch the chain of a 44 at full throttle and break the connecting rod... never ran that saw again

 

[RegC]

Somebody just sent me this link. Maybe its been posted already. It's pretty bad:
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1687275317970589&id=100000644105685

 

[Mick!]

Yeah, seen it on AT.

Sobering stuff.

 

[FireFighterZero]

Wow.

 

[MasterBlaster]

How's the fellow???

 

[biggun]

I would hazard a guess he isnt around anymore after that.