MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
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- #251
Brushes and ropes.
Today I Learned...
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Mick!
TreeHouser
Appreciate the expert advice, I?ll have to read it a coupla more times of course!
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #253
So true! Now if someone asks me, I can say lemme talk to my chimney sweep friend! 
treebilly
Student of the Jedi. OH-7106A
I tried the toast thing Butch. Either all the hype made me think it tastes that much better or it really does taste that much better.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #255
Told ya!
Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
I think Southern Yellow Pine is an exception to the btu thing with all the pitch in it. I burn whatever I can get in my OWB, but I prefer softwood slabs. No ash, fast cycle times, and I have to get rid of them somehow. Burning 1/4 to a 1/3 of a cord per day right now.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Dave. I agree. I think pitch in any amount would really be different than wood pd for pd. I think pitch would be considered an accelerant.
Sean, cleaning isn't rocket science. It's physically removing soot/creosote by whatever means nescessary, brushes, rods, I use rotary cleaning tools for the most part. Easier and more effective. A win, win. But the sometimes tricky part is doing it effectively and thoroughly. As in verifying your pathway and the effectiveness of the cleaning. Cleaning a chimney is often the easy part, cleaning the appliance has its tricks and challenges.
The temps that you are looking for can vary somewhat by style of appliance and how you monitor them can also vary quite a bit. The most common and easiest method is a magnet thermometer on single wall connecting pipe. Placed 12-18"s above the flue collar readings of about 250-550f are considered a 'clean' burn. Some thermometers or people may vary from those numbers slightly but that's the gist of it.
If you have a freestanding woodstove made of steel. Then reading the stovetop temperature with a magnet thermometer 4-6"s from the flue collar and placed off centre to either the left or right(or better yet use a couple of thermometers, they're pretty cheap) and placed on the thick steel top plate you want to see temps of 400-700f. Robust secondary combustion won't occur until about 400 stovetop so up to that temp you are shooting smoke straight up the chimney(smoke is unrealized heat and pollution). I run my steel stove right up to 800+f stovetop sometimes, but I'm crazy like that. Lol.
There are lots of different ways to monitor temps and different types of appliance will have slightly different temp zones that you will be looking for. For example a cast stove will run at(or should to avoid damage) slightly cooler temps then those I mentioned for a steel stove. Inserts are inherently hard to monitor temps in magnet thermometers placed above the door is one way if it doesn't protrude enough to get a 'stovetop' reading. You need to learn to burn by the 'look' of the fire more with a insert. Also infrared temperature guns are super handy for wood burning systems. For checking temps and for checking temps of surrounding combustible items too. 100f above ambient(room) temperature is considered the upper safe limit for heating items up. Usually around 165-175 is the max temp you want to see of combustible items around your stove. That will be hot to the touch but you should be able to keep your hand on it for a few seconds without burning.
It's dangerous business having fire in a box inside your home. Best to equip oneself with some basic knowledge and monitoring devices.
Butch. I have a couple more courses to take this next spring and then I will be looking to re-line and install. I've held off because I wanted more practical experience. From what I've seen in the field, many don't feel the same way as myself. I find lots of issues out and about cleaning. I've only undertaken minor repairs so far.
Sean, cleaning isn't rocket science. It's physically removing soot/creosote by whatever means nescessary, brushes, rods, I use rotary cleaning tools for the most part. Easier and more effective. A win, win. But the sometimes tricky part is doing it effectively and thoroughly. As in verifying your pathway and the effectiveness of the cleaning. Cleaning a chimney is often the easy part, cleaning the appliance has its tricks and challenges.
The temps that you are looking for can vary somewhat by style of appliance and how you monitor them can also vary quite a bit. The most common and easiest method is a magnet thermometer on single wall connecting pipe. Placed 12-18"s above the flue collar readings of about 250-550f are considered a 'clean' burn. Some thermometers or people may vary from those numbers slightly but that's the gist of it.
If you have a freestanding woodstove made of steel. Then reading the stovetop temperature with a magnet thermometer 4-6"s from the flue collar and placed off centre to either the left or right(or better yet use a couple of thermometers, they're pretty cheap) and placed on the thick steel top plate you want to see temps of 400-700f. Robust secondary combustion won't occur until about 400 stovetop so up to that temp you are shooting smoke straight up the chimney(smoke is unrealized heat and pollution). I run my steel stove right up to 800+f stovetop sometimes, but I'm crazy like that. Lol.
There are lots of different ways to monitor temps and different types of appliance will have slightly different temp zones that you will be looking for. For example a cast stove will run at(or should to avoid damage) slightly cooler temps then those I mentioned for a steel stove. Inserts are inherently hard to monitor temps in magnet thermometers placed above the door is one way if it doesn't protrude enough to get a 'stovetop' reading. You need to learn to burn by the 'look' of the fire more with a insert. Also infrared temperature guns are super handy for wood burning systems. For checking temps and for checking temps of surrounding combustible items too. 100f above ambient(room) temperature is considered the upper safe limit for heating items up. Usually around 165-175 is the max temp you want to see of combustible items around your stove. That will be hot to the touch but you should be able to keep your hand on it for a few seconds without burning.
It's dangerous business having fire in a box inside your home. Best to equip oneself with some basic knowledge and monitoring devices.
Butch. I have a couple more courses to take this next spring and then I will be looking to re-line and install. I've held off because I wanted more practical experience. From what I've seen in the field, many don't feel the same way as myself. I find lots of issues out and about cleaning. I've only undertaken minor repairs so far.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Ever had a chimney fire?
The way to control it is to NOT run up to the roof and dump water down the chimney.
Simply begin by spraying water (glass or spritzer) into the fire from your stove or whatnot. Keep adding water. It will steam and raise up the chimney and put the fire up there out
The way to control it is to NOT run up to the roof and dump water down the chimney.
Simply begin by spraying water (glass or spritzer) into the fire from your stove or whatnot. Keep adding water. It will steam and raise up the chimney and put the fire up there out
treebilly
Student of the Jedi. OH-7106A
Or call the FD. They don’t put 10,000 gallons down your chimney like the old days. From what I was told it’s a chemical that chokes the fire out very quickly. Like a fire extinguisher. I will agree that water from the bottom is a better approach than dumping from the top.
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
I needed a torque-wrench in 3/8" to put the new knifes on my chipper, but I had only one in 1/2". So I take my regular 3/8" socket wrench, did a simple math about levers, and pulled the end of the handle with a small electronic scale for luggage, right at 90*. About 17 kg on a 18cm handle for a 31 N.m.
A little care is needed to do it (do not slip, the knife's edge isn't far, although it's factory dull), but it worked well. That's funny to look at the progression of the number as you increase the load : the angular displacement doesn't seem to be so obviously correlated to the applied torque.
A little care is needed to do it (do not slip, the knife's edge isn't far, although it's factory dull), but it worked well. That's funny to look at the progression of the number as you increase the load : the angular displacement doesn't seem to be so obviously correlated to the applied torque.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Not me. Ever. My whole life I've had wood heat.
But I've cleaned up after many of them now. Super common. A lot of people have them and are completely unaware of it. Smaller ones or when they aren't around to witness it.
I burn crap wood for the most part. What finally makes it back to my yard is the castoffs no one else wants.
Steve Mack
Life Member.
Today I learned not to click on Windows 10 update unless you have a couple of hours to spare. "This may take a while" 
Last time I did it when I was going to bed, and now I'm going to bed.
What the hell are you supposed to do this time of night without a PC? Read old newspapers, play with your phone? Going from a 24" widescreen to 5" doesn't work this time of night.
Now it's done it might work better, the last update did improve it.
Last time I did it when I was going to bed, and now I'm going to bed.
What the hell are you supposed to do this time of night without a PC? Read old newspapers, play with your phone? Going from a 24" widescreen to 5" doesn't work this time of night.
Now it's done it might work better, the last update did improve it.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #265
Sometimes those frigging updates take forever!!!
SkwerI
Treehouser
When I did that update I lost my internet connectivity. Finally called Microsoft and it took the guy 40 minutes to get me online again. The update screwed up my modem driver so the fix was to uninstall the modem and then reboot the computer. It reinstalled automatically and worked perfect after that.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #267
Never had that problem, knock wood.
pantheraba
More biners!!!
Impresses me you actually could talk to someone at Microsoft.
SkwerI
Treehouser
It was their help line. I called my internet provider and they couldn't help, so they gave me the number to Microsoft. I would have been charged if it wasn't Microsoft's fault.
Marc-A, I m always impressed with your grasp of physics...do you have a qualification in it or is it just something you are interested in?
I know I've mentioned it before, but since moving to Tasmania and needing to heat our house, and being an arborist, we are amazed at the amount of people who say that burning pine and macrocarpa and basically ANYTHING other than eucalyptus is no good or BAD! We have been cutting elm lately and no-one wants to keep it and look at us like we have two heads when we ask if they want if for firewood...
Our firewood pile is always a mishmash of whatever I've been cutting, and between mixing the wood, making sure the fire (old Saxon insert) runs HOT in the morning and when we come back from work, and cleaning our flue pipe whenever we notice the fire not drawing properly...things have been just fine.
I've even noticed in the wood stove dealer showroom 'Hardwood Only' stickers on the stoves and inserts. I would have thought that the resin in Eucalypt would be comparable to the resin in pine?? What say you?
I know I've mentioned it before, but since moving to Tasmania and needing to heat our house, and being an arborist, we are amazed at the amount of people who say that burning pine and macrocarpa and basically ANYTHING other than eucalyptus is no good or BAD! We have been cutting elm lately and no-one wants to keep it and look at us like we have two heads when we ask if they want if for firewood...
Our firewood pile is always a mishmash of whatever I've been cutting, and between mixing the wood, making sure the fire (old Saxon insert) runs HOT in the morning and when we come back from work, and cleaning our flue pipe whenever we notice the fire not drawing properly...things have been just fine.
I've even noticed in the wood stove dealer showroom 'Hardwood Only' stickers on the stoves and inserts. I would have thought that the resin in Eucalypt would be comparable to the resin in pine?? What say you?
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
A couple of snips off a woodburning forum i haunt.
Question:
I have a wood fire that I would like to burn seasoned ( approx. 1 year ) Eucalyptus wood in . ( I live on property where it is prolific ) is this a viable fuel ? Does it heat well & produce good coals ?
Answer:
I have no personal experience with Eucalyptus, however I have spoken to some people who live in Isreal and they assure me that it burns well (it is the only wood they burn).
I'll see if I can find some written information on it.
11/2007 A google search for "eucalyptus firewood" turned up numerous articles on it's use as well as several advertisments for cords of eucalyptus for sale. So it seems it's use as a firewood is fairly commonplace.
I'm Australian and moved here about 3 years ago. Eucalyptus is not a soft wood. Whoever told you that is telling you porky pies. I consider oak to be a soft wood, when compared to Eucalyptus. You'll want to season it for at least 2-3 years, and that's split. In OZ, they would season it for a lot longer.
Question:
I have a wood fire that I would like to burn seasoned ( approx. 1 year ) Eucalyptus wood in . ( I live on property where it is prolific ) is this a viable fuel ? Does it heat well & produce good coals ?
Answer:
I have no personal experience with Eucalyptus, however I have spoken to some people who live in Isreal and they assure me that it burns well (it is the only wood they burn).
I'll see if I can find some written information on it.
11/2007 A google search for "eucalyptus firewood" turned up numerous articles on it's use as well as several advertisments for cords of eucalyptus for sale. So it seems it's use as a firewood is fairly commonplace.
I'm Australian and moved here about 3 years ago. Eucalyptus is not a soft wood. Whoever told you that is telling you porky pies. I consider oak to be a soft wood, when compared to Eucalyptus. You'll want to season it for at least 2-3 years, and that's split. In OZ, they would season it for a lot longer.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #272
You'd best not be telling me porky pies, mate!!!
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Lol. The trash talking is hard to take over there at hearth.com
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #274
I bet it can get ROUGH!!!
Cobleskill
Treehouser
I did a search on Blaze King that you mentioned and found the thread that went on ad infinitum on a problem installation/stove/or wood problem. I have not been able to finish it. Mildly entertaining.
The one guy said you should find your grade school english teacher and punch therm in the mouth. A little testy, are we?
The one guy said you should find your grade school english teacher and punch therm in the mouth. A little testy, are we?
