The Official Work Pictures Thread
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MasterBlaster
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Who doesn't ???
treebilly
Student of the Jedi. OH-7106A
Planned ahead. After looking at the stump and laying the saw around from the sides and the rear, I would’ve had about a six inch stab that would’ve been unreachable. Only takes a few seconds to gut the hinge. This one had a slight back lean so we had a pull rope in it. I didn’t want to mess with pounding by that point.
Cory i do hesitate at times. Kinda depends on the location I’m working in. Also I will raise up to straighter grained wood if it’s gonna be a real tight lay or high winds ( not real gusty) with brush still on, or side weight/ lean. I got into the low cuts when I was doing a lot of clearings. Had to have low stumps so machinery could move around and picking up a two foot long piece of wood was a PITA.
Cory i do hesitate at times. Kinda depends on the location I’m working in. Also I will raise up to straighter grained wood if it’s gonna be a real tight lay or high winds ( not real gusty) with brush still on, or side weight/ lean. I got into the low cuts when I was doing a lot of clearings. Had to have low stumps so machinery could move around and picking up a two foot long piece of wood was a PITA.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
20 inch bar on the 461. You got skills, so you didn't have to walk back to the truck for the next size up.
By boring in and walking the saw around, you use, Cory's keep you stumping chain sharp technique (IIRC) of always pulling stuff outward from the cut, with inside clean wood. Inclusions are tough, of course, but looks like an optimal way about it.
The more your gut from front, the less cutting on the back-cut, dealing with dulling inclusions.
Yeah, makes sense, Rich. A 2' long piece of wood can be a pita but on most of my jobs it works out ok, so I cut most of mine a bit high. And then I can flush the stump and still keep chain sharp using the 'cutting mud 'technique
Edit: Yes, exactly right, Sean.
Edit: Yes, exactly right, Sean.
SkwerI
Treehouser
Fi, what size rod do you have? I use a 3/4" bit for 5/8" eye bolts. I think a 1/2" bit that long would be easy to break or bend.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
This is Not my forte.
I bet if sharp, and used well, with the scaffolding available (picnic tables), 1/2" bits would work. Would they normally sell them that long if bendy/ breaky? Start with shorter, if you want/ can, and go up to 42".
1/2" rod calls for (as usual, 1/16 or 1/8" larger bit) 9/16th or 5/8" bit, per BMPs.
I've only got one bit for 1/2" rod, and IDK the size.
The 3/4 is a lot more volume, over double, but won't break.
How many rods?
I bet if sharp, and used well, with the scaffolding available (picnic tables), 1/2" bits would work. Would they normally sell them that long if bendy/ breaky? Start with shorter, if you want/ can, and go up to 42".
1/2" rod calls for (as usual, 1/16 or 1/8" larger bit) 9/16th or 5/8" bit, per BMPs.
I've only got one bit for 1/2" rod, and IDK the size.
The 3/4 is a lot more volume, over double, but won't break.
How many rods?
Going with the 3/4, hubby is happy means he gets a new drill out of this too.
We had some 1/2 rod, but decided to go bigger.
The drill bits are made once you order them...they have one even longer, 5'3", thought that might be overkill!
We had some 1/2 rod, but decided to go bigger.
The drill bits are made once you order them...they have one even longer, 5'3", thought that might be overkill!
SkwerI
Treehouser
When I had a couple cabling jobs come up this year fir the first time in several years, I used it as an excuse to buy myself this cordless drill. Believe it or not it has plenty of power to do the job and enough torque to mess your wrists up when the bit binds. Still a lot easier than using a corded drill.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DR90NA2/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DR90NA2/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr?th=1
MasterBlaster
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It looks top of the line.
pantheraba
More biners!!!
Cordless tools are amazing these days. I get lots of mileage from my Rigid drill and impact driver.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
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One day the pwr source will be a tiny chip you plug in with a microscopic piece of uranium powering it for years.
Stumpshot
General Purpose
Not to start any power tool flame war, but here's a true story: I have access to both a DeWalt 20V XR set and a Milwaukee 18V set. I had to epoxy set some anchors into the basement foundation rock walls in order to cinch the side deck's ledger board to the house. So hammer drill time -- since I had access to both, I started with the DeWalt and it was slow going, even with a friend prying a 2x4 against the back of the drill to give it some good back pressure into the rock. DeWalt was smoking hot and the battery wore down quickly. The Milwaukee hammer drill did the job with obviously more torque, overall power, and less heat generation. And it's battery lasted through 2 more anchor holes (3 total).
There are certain tools where a battery powered option is handy, but a corded one is made for real work. Grinders, circular saws, hammer drills, large drills, sawsalls, and impact wrenches need to be corded (or air) to work the crap out of them.
flushcut
TreeHouser
Unless the hammer drill is an SDS Max, SDS+, or Spline drive they aren't meant for serious drilling. Most hammer drills (like the one Brian and stumpshot posted) are meant for small holes 1/4" or less for masonry screws i.e. attaching an electrical junction box or conduit to a wall.
BlackSmith
Uncivil
Big difference between a hammer drill and a rotary hammer
SkwerI
Treehouser
There's a massive difference between drilling wood and drilling concrete. But I appreciate (sarcasm) everybody informing me how inadequate my drill is for the task I bought it for. If you hadn't told me I would never have known that my drill sucks.
The rest of you are welcome to continue dragging extension cords out to jobsites and begging access to the customer's power outlet before trying to drag the cord up in the tree with you to drill a little hole in wood.
The rest of you are welcome to continue dragging extension cords out to jobsites and begging access to the customer's power outlet before trying to drag the cord up in the tree with you to drill a little hole in wood.
MasterBlaster
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- #23,545
Thanks! 
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
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- #23,547
Haven't we all???
MasterBlaster
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- #23,549
I just meant drill the hole. I used 'lectricity.
flushcut
TreeHouser
I'm not bagging on your drill just commenting that your Dewalt or the Milwaukee (which I own and cable with) is not up to the task of heavy drilling in masonry. Light duty TapCon stuff, sure all day, but over 1/4" and they are slow going.
