The Official Work Pictures Thread

Afaik, when Sean mentions 'magic', its the magic cut- cutting lean into an aerial straight spar, a snipe, and then a bypass back cut.

What Gary showed imo is a coos bay. Ive never tried it up in a tree, was it scary?
 
Attention-getting at least...I got real particular on work positioning to get the side angles right and in line...mostly scared I'd stay in the 2nd side cut too long and get my saw trapped. And then paid close attention that I needed to make the back cut fast to take advantage of the setup.

I will use it again...since it worked this time (I got away with it this time?). :D
 
Ive used it on smaller stuff, it works well. I'd probably be skeered to use it on big stuff, unlike Gord in BC who popularized in on the Buzz iirc
 
Gary/John. I believe that is what Sean (South Sound)calls the magic triangle. That is not a Coosbay, which is more difficult, if faster to cut. It is basically just a vertical hinge. A mohawk? Holding wood only in the center, in a thin, vertical strip.
Frankie: The rakers here are not yet done.
View attachment 106789
Insane-0 chain ? 😂 ... If you watch Jacks videos he’s always whining about the chain, “little hungry for this inland wood” , coastie-grind, I cant say I’m well pleased with the chain” etc ... What I don’t get is the .050-.100 raker depth as of late but if it works ... .018-.035 seems to be a good range depending on saw and species of wood ... Angles being different on one side vs the other sound like a set-up issue or perhaps the machine itself is in need of some repair ... Sometimes a complete tear down , cleaning in solvent and a relube works wonders .
 
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Sean i
Sean is kind of evangelical about the Magic Cut. Never used it myself.
The Magic Cut is Gord's (TB OG) trick (that's fantastic), and is for vertical spars, basically.

Try it.

It's a way to greatly

speed production,

avoid man-handling blocks of wood,

avoid pull-ropes/ groundie being taken away from necessary ground work,

avoids lots of pulling the climbing line and pull rope back up the tree after groundies untie and fight the heavy block of wood from on top of pull ropes,

and needing wedges or fighting your saw out from under a heavy piece,

Before Christmas, I was cutting some heavy blocks straight through, on wedges as kerf holder-openers as well as sliders, and pushing them off, which was OK, at my strength level, but wouldn't be for someone smaller. All the same, it was too much work. I was solo, up high, and wanted to conserve fuel in my ms461 so I could cut as much as possible without coming down to refill (over-thinking it, ran out of drop zone way before fuel).
I switched to Magic Cuts...faster and physically easier, without concern about dropping wedges. Magic cuts don't require anywhere near the cutting precision, and they don't stall as undercut-COG hinges can (yep, had one stall that day).




Gary's using a "Triangle" cut, Golden Triange, maybe.

Also, check FOGT for max-depth undercut, or something similar. Reaming or a small wedge in the bottom to prevent pinching.
 
Is that a textbook Coos? I asked in passing once, but didn't get any bites. I've seen a couple different cuts called a Coos Bay, and they're different enough to warrant a different name. A Coos Bay in my head is a gunning cut(optional apparently) in the lay side, a cut on each side of the stem parallel with the lay(leaving a post in the middle), then cutting the post.

That’s how I do them. 3 cuts and pop. Job done. No face, I just do whichever of the 45degree cuts looks to have the most compression first.

I use it as and when. Whether I am up a tree or on the ground. Never had a problem but a fast cutting chain is essential and if it does look to split on you whilst aloft. Hang in there and keep cutting.
 
Mine, too.
Gary's was 45 degrees and thick enough to bore, so in that situation, that would be my choice.
 
I’ll have another look at it Sean, but I do think that a mini lever is the key to moving large blocks off a stem
I already carry a trigger. Way lighter. No need to securGordon. Works on logs (Humboldt it) and blocks.

Not my "invention". Props to Gord.

I make no money for endorsing it, just using it.

Different strokes.
😀
 
Anyone care to meet me at the Golden West Saloon Hotel circa 1988?

Frankie: Madsen’s has a ton of info on their website geared toward shimming the Simington to get er back on a level, but then Michael (their main grinder dude) told me not to do it.:? If the condition worsens, I’m just gonna do it anyways.

Please forgive a couple more explanatory videos to come, brothers… short and sweet I promise.
 
Jedidiah, I'm digging this vein of filing info.

Hey do ever get a chain that, at about 3/4 of it's life, it starts getting a little wonky? If so, are you able to correct them or do you just toss em or is it hit or miss either way?
 
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