The Official Work Pictures Thread

You two have no Idea how jealous I am of both of you for how much you have managed to learn and apply to saws. Work saws gotta last, and race saws gotta win. Jack builds race saws (my buddy has 3 level 6’s) that last. Now go figure THAT one out.

Frankie: I am SO sorry brother... we got hit with a level 6 (Psycho S 😂) windstorm, the power is still out everywhere, and the Simington has sat impotent (see last photo for evidence with your bag of two chains—your other two chains are hand-filed and sitting safe and dry in my shop—on top of it.) for two days now. (See last photo for evidence—shot by the light of a headlamp 😂)

LOTS of this stuff for the next 10 days... long days. That Balsa wood can do some damage eh? Almost forgot to tell you that I loved that shot of the ram’s horn hinge wood... tough shot. You and Jonny put up some good pics.


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Oh , so you’re cutting (altering) the squish band then cutting the base (or decking the cylinder) to up the compression , which will lower both the intake and exhaust ports and transfers IF stock gasket is used. How do u assure geometric tolerancing with the 4-jaw chuck, face plate and cylinder in that configuration and how do you assure geometric tolerancing IF you use a mandrel to deck the cylinder ? These new cylinders aren’t dead nuts like the old versions and you can run into trouble very quickly
 
Yes, only Stihls... and some Husqys need it for torque. Echos have the torque down pat, and just need waking up in the high end.

You center the bore at each end. Super simple with a mandrel in a 3 jaw chuck, "lotta work" in the 4 jaw chuck. I do wish I had a mandrel for cutting the squish band, but I kind of prefer the lathe. The important part is making sure the bore and base are squared, so there's no stress on the piston and bearings. As long as the cylinder is extended, and nothing is missed by being off center, (which is why I increase the bore at the same time in case I'm off 1-2 thousandths) and as long as the squish gap is sufficient, all ends well and the squish band doesn't need to be perfectly square to the bore, but it ends up pretty darn close. I was happy with how centered I got the 028. I could even detect microscopic waviness in the cylinder wall, but it was a low use cylinder.

Just hop down and use their bathroom while you're at it.
 
Seems like a lotta work ... I think I’ll just use a thinner base gasket instead , That way I’m dead nuts with no possibility of introduced error
 
Usually I do ask, but fences can be tricky, job is for the neighbours...nice elderly couple, have permission to access from this side...so trying to be diplomatic...easier to not damage it than get in a dispute about who's going to repair it!
 
Lotta work ... That’s white oak , and it’s very heavy. Properly seasoned , the customer will have excellent results !
 
My brother is having a shop building put up next week...grading starts then. I helped him yesterday take out some large oak limbs that would be over the shop...got to bomb them. Some could be undercut/top cut so they flat dropped. The biggest, approx 9-10 inch diameter took off at about 45 degrees with a lot of weight...a sure splinter/barberchair if topcut. The Coos Bay worked great...had some concern about getting the bar trapped on the side cuts but it didn't happen...worked a charm.
 

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Is that a textbook Coos? I asked in passing once, but didn't get any bites. I've seen a couple different cuts called a Coos Bay, and they're different enough to warrant a different name. A Coos Bay in my head is a gunning cut(optional apparently) in the lay side, a cut on each side of the stem parallel with the lay(leaving a post in the middle), then cutting the post.
 
Hell...I don't know! I didn't write a book. But that is how I have it in my head...a triangular post left at the end of the cut. We'll let Burnham, Jerry, Stig types sort it out. Maybe I just stirred the pot. :D
 
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