This is what the swivel let me do with the HH2 setup. I needed to be able to pull slack from a varying direction. Without the swivel it was problematic. I used my 2 SRT setups while working off a ladder to clean my son's Monkey Slide. Part of the time I was half on the ladder and half on the structure braces...sometimes totally on cross pieces. The pressure washing part of the video is kind of like watching someone scramble eggs....
FWIW I work with one person pretty much exclusively and I have trained her. Along with senas in our helmets and our intuition for the work my risk level from groundies with my rope is very, very low.
I can fully understand switching to canopy either as the job requires or to mitigate risk from 'unknowns' on the ground.
Do what ya gotta do!
Bermy could you explain the base tie you were mentioning earlier that Graeme uses? When I base anchor I half hitch it at least once then use a quickie or delta link with an alpine butterfly for the final tie. Sometimes I'll just use a running bowline with yosemite tie off. But I usually like a half hitch above to keep the knot from getting slack If I need to advance my tip.
As Dmc said these definitely help with setting a rope. Extremely fast too. Last week I was cutting smaller trees for the Highway dept. Working 40 ft below grade falling them up hill. More like a cliff. Too steep to walk or crawl on. The trees had to be pulled out from the high side with a tractor. Most of the tops were 10 to 15 ft down the hill so I couldn't set a rope on them. I used the line setter and had a rope on them almost instantly. I keep a small biner on a piece of throwline about 1 ft long and girth hitch it to the rope then clip it to the line setter.
Benjo, my base tie...once your climbing leg is of sufficient length for the job...wrap the down leg end twice around the tree, make a bight and tie two half hitches around the down leg where it goes up the trunk, and finish with a thumb knot or other finish knot of your choice.
If you have sufficient spare rope if it were necessary to lower the climber (always supposing they are not unconscious and still clipped in with their lanyard) you just undo the knots and lower using the friction of the two wraps around the tree. I have spare rope that can be attached to the end of my climb rope if extra length were necessary.
There is a really good video on YouTube somewhere...
Caution...there is the potential for some 'sawing' motion where your rope goes over your TIP...always keep that in mind, so far I have not found it to be a serious problem, rope inspection is not showing any excessive wear...and I don't weigh much. As in any climbing system you must take into consideration your weight, your style, the tree and the job when deciding what is safe for you.
I can't believe how much you guy's fuss over just setting your rope over a bare limb. I never use any cambium protection and also never have cambium damage. Your rope really should not be sawing back and forth.
Depends on what you're climbing on, and how you're climbing.
Agreed, it shouldn't saw back and forth. 200' of arbor Plex is a lot of stretch, sit-standing, and slacking and tensioning. I think climber weight is another factor.
I normally never use one.
Keeping pitch off your rope while climbing a grand-fir, pondo pine, etc is reasonable.