Best Resources for Learning SRT?
- Thread starter TINYHULK
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CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
On Rope 1 Stiff step or soft step. Bees knees. Soft step best if you sew a loop on top. My last stiff step had one. I just took an old loop runner and cut what I needed. Bomb proof.
Left or right. Or pairs.
Left or right. Or pairs.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #53
So here is my new bridge idea for the hitch hiker. Considering it twisting when trying to hand tend it (without a pulley) and the side plate friction during a limb walk on a pulley. So the petzl swivel would go straight to my bridge then the notch rook would be connected to the other end of the swivel. Allowing the pulley to swivel for tending. Just an idea, any experienced input on this?
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CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
The stiff step just has a metal plate sewn in the bottom. Not necessary IMHO and eventually wears through and falls out. Then you have a soft step. Stiff was a tad weird for limb walk positioning when needing my arch on the limb. So the soft step suits me better.Just un clip the knee ascender and leave the foot loop on.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Me 2. I called them and asked whats up. They just said they found that most cavers/spelunkers just clipped a carabiner around the top and it was fine. Keeps the cost down. I said, "well, I'm an arborist and its better with a loop om top. Offer an option maybe?." They said they would tink about it. 
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Now mind you, I ordered a few of them and took delivery with out knowing about the missing loop. So, loop runner to the rescue. The stiff step came with a delta screw link. The soft step, with just a sewn loop, did not need the delta. I found more metal involved cumbersome. Tried it. Now I just clip into the loop and prefer the orientation of the SAKA ascender that way. It tyrns the ascender toward the opposite leg where the rope tends to run any way.
Cear as mud?
Cear as mud?
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
I apreciate the effort to challenge Kenny, but you aren't even close. 
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
SAKA here. I have the older version though
ruel
TreeHouser
SAKA is my preference, but I haven't run The newest HAAS. The original HAAS was kinda a PITA to put On over boots, and the bungee wasn't great. I have the newest solid saka, and think it's great.
Broke my foot loop bungee on there first use (still totally usable, just a grommet pulled out) Sent Richard (climbing innovations) an email at lunch to ask if I was doing something wrong. By the time I got home he had already shipped out a new one. Better service than you're likely to Get from Weaver
Broke my foot loop bungee on there first use (still totally usable, just a grommet pulled out) Sent Richard (climbing innovations) an email at lunch to ask if I was doing something wrong. By the time I got home he had already shipped out a new one. Better service than you're likely to Get from Weaver
ruel
TreeHouser
It stays on, but only cause it's what im Used to. try It both ways
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #65
Will do! Thank you all once again. I’ll be sure to ask more srt questions as they come along. Random question. How often do y’all drop enough weight that you go for a ride that slings you hard enough to pull your spurs out the tree?
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Something is wrong if you're getting shaken loose.
Don't get going to big, too fast.
None of the manufacturers or marketers has figured out making and selling good judgment.
How many time have you been shaken loose?
Zero, here.
Don't get going to big, too fast.
None of the manufacturers or marketers has figured out making and selling good judgment.
How many time have you been shaken loose?
Zero, here.
pantheraba
More biners!!!
That was kind of my thinking here, too. I have gotten shaken some but never shaken loose. I don't do this work everyday but I've taken some decent-sized tops...there are ways to cut the top to help mitigate a butt-kicking release. (Humboldt type notch for one). Let some others with more experience weigh in.
pantheraba
More biners!!!
When those spurs come out of the tree they have to go somewhere...gaffing yourself is frowned upon. (I have done that before...sucks)
ruel
TreeHouser
Sounds like you are going bigger than is wise for your experience level. That or the person lowering Is not skilled enough. Bad rides should be a rarity, and getting knocked loose should be a red flag.
Always consider why you are negative rigging trunk Wood. Damage right below tree is almost impossible to avoid even catching logs. Felling whole spar, free falling logs both way safer and usually acceptable/ create the same damage as negative rigging. even cutting and chucking manageable Pieces is Often just as fast and definitely way safer
Always consider why you are negative rigging trunk Wood. Damage right below tree is almost impossible to avoid even catching logs. Felling whole spar, free falling logs both way safer and usually acceptable/ create the same damage as negative rigging. even cutting and chucking manageable Pieces is Often just as fast and definitely way safer
pantheraba
More biners!!!
Good point, Ruel. That can rattle your teeth in a hurry.
In almost 20 years, one bad ride, saw it coming held on tight for the ride. Norfolk pine dismantle for a landscape co., The landscapers pulled the top too early and the hinge was way thick.
Oh and once I cut off too much end from a rubber tree branch....boinnngggg, ended up underneath what was left, but had a nice high tie in so it was ok.
Oh and once I cut off too much end from a rubber tree branch....boinnngggg, ended up underneath what was left, but had a nice high tie in so it was ok.
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
I have just done one nice ride yesterday (two actually)
Two tops (one at a time) of an oak, catched on the pulley at their base, maybe 5-6"diameter, 5/9 rigging rope, a fixed bollard and a first day use of the rigging for the groundy. I explained the "let it run" with the other things, but didn't ask for it to keep it simple. Not all the same day. The ride was expected so I made a cautious cut to have the time to prepare myself when the top began slowly to move. The oak was dying but the wood was still green and strong in this area and bellow. So the worry was "just" to handle the rodeo the best way. Waiting for it, I studied the different steps :
- First, the push back from the top's butt, almost nothing to say, it's occuring slowly and doesn't generate much of an acceleration. Watching the television here.
- Second, the fall. Same, the trunk returns to its place, pushing away the top at first, so the movement is about at the same speed than the push back. Expecting for more.
- Third, the rope catches the top. Things become suddenly interesting. The trunk jumps forward with a serious acceleration this time. Being prepared with a good grip and stance, you can take it. If it's a surprise, you can get a serious yank in the back by the saddle. I got that twice years ago with both a big top of a hard leaning london plane and a small top of a small cypres (?) but extremly heavy by all the cones. Painful. Yesterday, with a sturdy tree and a relative small top, it was very manageable.
- Fourth, the top swings back and slams against the trunk. That sends a big jolt toward you. Here we go, away, in the air, air born, launched... what you want to call it, but you no longer belong to the same reference space than the tree. Gaffing out is mandatatory, no choice here. Thanks to both climb lines choked tight, I can go nowhere, not even a little slide down the trunk. I like fabulously this precise point. The rag-dolling doesn't last long if you stay (relatively) in control.
Being a big fan of the self rigging technique with just my slings, I take a ride often enought. I hate that, but I am not afraid of it anymore with a bit of experience. To avoid the hasard and associated dangers of gaffing out, after cutting my notch, adjusting the sling and beginning the backcut, I put all my weight on the choked climb lines, pull out the gaffs and put the legs on the trunk's sides. I finish the back cut, wait for the top passing me, grab the trunk over the sling with my arms, one hand with a death grip on the chainsaw. Just as the top comes against the trunk, I embrace the trunk and the top with my legs, going in full koala mode. Special attention here for the gaffs. There's a very short time to do this different steps but it works quite well.
Details may vary with the trunk's size, trajectory, if a rigging line is involved...
I'm well aware that I could do (should) that the proper way, but I am not often in the right circonstances. Maybe with this ground guy as he seems willing to learn.
Two tops (one at a time) of an oak, catched on the pulley at their base, maybe 5-6"diameter, 5/9 rigging rope, a fixed bollard and a first day use of the rigging for the groundy. I explained the "let it run" with the other things, but didn't ask for it to keep it simple. Not all the same day. The ride was expected so I made a cautious cut to have the time to prepare myself when the top began slowly to move. The oak was dying but the wood was still green and strong in this area and bellow. So the worry was "just" to handle the rodeo the best way. Waiting for it, I studied the different steps :
- First, the push back from the top's butt, almost nothing to say, it's occuring slowly and doesn't generate much of an acceleration. Watching the television here.
- Second, the fall. Same, the trunk returns to its place, pushing away the top at first, so the movement is about at the same speed than the push back. Expecting for more.
- Third, the rope catches the top. Things become suddenly interesting. The trunk jumps forward with a serious acceleration this time. Being prepared with a good grip and stance, you can take it. If it's a surprise, you can get a serious yank in the back by the saddle. I got that twice years ago with both a big top of a hard leaning london plane and a small top of a small cypres (?) but extremly heavy by all the cones. Painful. Yesterday, with a sturdy tree and a relative small top, it was very manageable.
- Fourth, the top swings back and slams against the trunk. That sends a big jolt toward you. Here we go, away, in the air, air born, launched... what you want to call it, but you no longer belong to the same reference space than the tree. Gaffing out is mandatatory, no choice here. Thanks to both climb lines choked tight, I can go nowhere, not even a little slide down the trunk. I like fabulously this precise point. The rag-dolling doesn't last long if you stay (relatively) in control.
Being a big fan of the self rigging technique with just my slings, I take a ride often enought. I hate that, but I am not afraid of it anymore with a bit of experience. To avoid the hasard and associated dangers of gaffing out, after cutting my notch, adjusting the sling and beginning the backcut, I put all my weight on the choked climb lines, pull out the gaffs and put the legs on the trunk's sides. I finish the back cut, wait for the top passing me, grab the trunk over the sling with my arms, one hand with a death grip on the chainsaw. Just as the top comes against the trunk, I embrace the trunk and the top with my legs, going in full koala mode. Special attention here for the gaffs. There's a very short time to do this different steps but it works quite well.
Details may vary with the trunk's size, trajectory, if a rigging line is involved...
I'm well aware that I could do (should) that the proper way, but I am not often in the right circonstances. Maybe with this ground guy as he seems willing to learn.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #74
Thank you all for your input. I’ve been climbing for almost 2 years but I am climbing more than I ever have with this new company. The two times I have got slung by the tree was one time with a new ground guy. On a wobbly sweet gum and he didn’t let it run. Spar Kicked back at me so hard that it threw my spurs out the tree and rocked hard in to me. Needless to say I was all bruised up. Yesterday I was in another sweet gum but it was a co-dominant stem, was basically its own tree, splitting at 2ft from the ground. It had a horrible forward lean. Once I limbed up to the final top, I did a shallow humboldt and when I did the back cut I was on the side of the spar. I always have my climb line girthed on the tree and tighten it down before any substantial cut. I knew there would be a ride, but not as much as I got. Slung back hard enough that it spun me around 180 degrees on the spar. My instinct as well was to koala the tree. No injuries and was a successful drop. Only thing I could have done different would have been to tie in to the main tree so that I could get higher up and take it in little pieces. I’ve never got to work with a more experienced climber where I could just observe and learn from there experience, so the heart behind my question was to understand an industry “norm.” Ofcourse I don’t cut corners and try to take more wood than I should, trying to rush the job or be reckless. But sometimes the tree just grows in a way to make it easy or not having a neighboring tree to tie in to. Thank you all for your input
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
The wild ride from loosing/catching a top may be as harmfull, even if not more, if you are tied securely on an other axis/trunk but in close proximity. Because the affected trunk is moving fast and you, not at all. Guess which result gives the encounter ?
The overgrown multistemed edges are a danger for that.
The overgrown multistemed edges are a danger for that.
