Solo Tree Work

16" bar on a 200 is awesome for taking trees apart. Smaller bars are better for pruning IMO. Better balance. But, for weight and balance, I can still disassemble a lot of tree with a 12" bar until I need something bigger.

Do you use a narrower bar and chain combo?

I really notice a reduction in cutting speed and power when I use a 14” bar conpaired to a 12” bar.

I have never tried a 16” but would automatically assume it would be slower still.

I have ported 200t’s, so we are not talking stock machines here either.

I guess I just like a short bar on an over powered power head.

18” in a 660 is awesome although I usually have a 28” bar on my ported 660.
 
Don't hold the kid to too high a bar regarding this sort of thing :). When I was his age, I was sitting in a European history class in college.

He, on the other hand, is out there making a living in far from the easiest way.
 
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Do you use a narrower bar and chain combo?

I really notice a reduction in cutting speed and power when I use a 14” bar conpaired to a 12” bar.

I have never tried a 16” but would automatically assume it would be slower still.

I have ported 200t’s, so we are not talking stock machines here either.

I guess I just like a short bar on an over powered power head.

18” in a 660 is awesome although I usually have a 28” bar on my ported 660.
Only narrower and lighter bar and chain combo is on the Stihl 150 for pruning.
Too slow for removing. Only a muffler mod on my saws.
Removal would take noticably longer with like a stock Echo 360 over the 200t.
The 2511 does fine.
I need to rebuild my 200ts. But not in any hurry. I enjoy my little saw ss I find it more ergonomically advantagious in the tree. Even if it is a little slower than a 200t.
I can bury ground men with either. And I dont bury them. Material handling must be efficient and smooth or it slows me down cutting or clean up. There has to be a balance. Shat has to get processed so we can move on.
Crane work runs like that too. Too big a pick with a small crew can choke the rhythm. Will it fit? Great. Can they handle it fast enough for the next pick?
 
Do you use a narrower bar and chain combo?

I really notice a reduction in cutting speed and power when I use a 14” bar conpaired to a 12” bar.

I have never tried a 16” but would automatically assume it would be slower still.

I have ported 200t’s, so we are not talking stock machines here either.

I guess I just like a short bar on an over powered power head.

18” in a 660 is awesome although I usually have a 28” bar on my ported 660.
In my world, first thing to remember is it's almost always softwoods being cut, even the "hardwoods" are soft relative to most deciduous species.

I run a 14" b&c on my 200T and a 16" b&c on my 200RH. Have swapped the 16" on to the 200T on more than a few occasions. It does take care of some heavy-duty work in a teardown, allowing me to avoid a bigger saw until up in the 24" diameter range, in these softwoods.

I only fairly recently have downsized b&c on my MS361 from 24" to 20", MS044 from 28" to 24", but am still keeping the 32" on the MS064. Not because the saws aren't up to it; more because I'm not needing those extra lengths much anymore, being retired plus older and not as muscular as I once was :).

But I do take your point re short bars on very strong powerheads. I just had to put the new 20" b&c on the 064 for a shits and giggles trial. It was mighty big fun on 18 inch Doug fir :D.
 
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Yup, here too. MS 044 with 25" b&c can deal with plentyfully big wood...up to 30 inch, as I recall. I have had to go to the 066 with 36" b&c on only a few occasions. Now for me, that is getting into too much saw aloft for it to be even close to enjoyable :).

My work far more often needed trees of that size felled into what might be a skinny lay of a target, thank all the gods...way easier, even if perhaps more stressful at times :).
 
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I buy from the local dealer, a few bucks here or there makes no odds to me.
They send clients my way oftimes.
Keep the dealers open. Bollocks to internet cut-throats.

I was mostly looking at current prices, readily available, online.

Prices vary considerably.



Echo top-handles are my only non-dealer saws.
The local Echo dealer doesn't know much or stock much. Easier for me to find my own parts, online, and save the time and driving by having the parts delivered to my shop, directly and faster.

My Stihl dealer is very good and well-stocked. Parts can be special order and a trip across town and back.
Took a week and a trip to get a $2 wear part.
 
A solid dealer for new, parts, and service (when in extremis:)) is a godsend. The local Stihl shop used to be one of those, but these days with the diminution of the Oregon logging industry in general, and the retirement of its best techs, it's a shadow of its former glory, sadly. Still good, but no longer great.
 
My local dealer is sadly 3 years older than I am.
So he'll likely retire before I do.

I'll really be up the creek then.
 
Europe also has a rich culture and history. (Touché)
you sure about that?
never have seen a video like this about Europe!

edit, age restriction for no reason
edit 2: I run a .050 3/8P bar and chain, I quit messing with .043 unless its on a polesaw, sharp chain and even the long bar cuts like butter (modded 200t)

 
Ooh! Contrary opinion time! I've got an Echo, and I love it too, but it's the 355. I've found that the extra displacement comes into play at my elevations (5000-7000). I prefer the 3/8 low profile that comes on the saw, as I find it easier to sharpen and more durable than the skinny stuff. I think I have a 14" bar, but it's to cold out for me to bother to check tonight.
Certainly seems to keep up with the pricy saws just fine, but that has been my experience with the few Echo saws I've owned.
 
I think any of the bar lengths are viable, it just depends on the person and what they're doing, and how they usually work a tree. I'm not a fast climber so i rarely climb around much with the saw running, and i very rarely 1 hand stuff, if i do it's usually to trip a larger piece as i avoid the rigging so it's buried in a cut already so i don't notice balance as much. Most trees around here that i do are spreading hardwoods over stuff, and pppp i usually have to manage most of the wood in some way. The vast majority of my smaller cuts that i catch/ throw i do with a silky sugowaza, which is over 16" by itself. It's the one designed for line clearance and for me its faster to use rather than starting a saw on small wood (3" or so), and easier/ safer to manage the piece afterwards, pretty amazing saw and it's clear that it was designed for line clearance.

Now that i have a little battery 12 that may change, it's obviously slower than a gas saw but it's super light and really quick to start cutting since you simply push a button and cut, and i don't have to listen to the saw idle the whole time and deal with more fueling stops like i would if the saw was idling a bunch. But for the stuff i would 1 hand I'm usually just using the hand saw, it makes handling the wood so much easier once it's free and it's surprising quick. Any bigger wood than 3" that I'm gonna manhandle i simply snap cut it, no need to 1 hand that stuff either. Even in a lift it's my main tool for dealing with the brush by hand, and I'll even go so far as tripping larger rigged pieces with it if i think it'll be safer/ easier, it's amazingly nice to have a handsaw that is big enough to really cut relatively quickly.

I like a 16" bar and use it probably far longer than i should because it's lighter than a bigger saw, and i can usually get back to where I'm gonna flop it by using only 1 saw. I need a midsize saw (especially now that I'm not there physically anymore, it'll be a requirement before i start my business back up), but thus far i simply jump up to my 80 cc with a 24" bar, the bigger wood goes fast compared to the more labor intensive tips where I'm dealing with more pieces. I don't like double cutting, if anything I'll cut the side to fit the smaller 16" so an 18" or 20" on a midsized saw simply isn't gaining me much in reach. Although the 16" bar likely isn't the best performance, for me it's been a good compromise with how i work a tree.
 
I like a big bar on the smallest, lightest powerhead possible, I've been known to run a 20-25" 3/8 .050 b&c on a 261, but as you have seen, sometimes an 881 with a 20" is just right lol
 
Ooh! Contrary opinion time! I've got an Echo, and I love it too, but it's the 355. I've found that the extra displacement comes into play at my elevations (5000-7000). I prefer the 3/8 low profile that comes on the saw, as I find it easier to sharpen and more durable than the skinny stuff. I think I have a 14" bar, but it's to cold out for me to bother to check tonight.
Certainly seems to keep up with the pricy saws just fine, but that has been my experience with the few Echo saws I've owned.
My 355 is my newest saw, so not a lot of experience, but I like it a lot. I bought it with a 14" bar, but I regret that. I should have gotten a 16". It's wearing a woodlandpro 16" off a different saw. Woodlandpro is a standard swap on my small saws. I like them better than the oem bars. They have a bigger nose, and make boring easier. Get the B&C combo, and I get a loop of Carlton chain, which is pretty decent, and cheaper than I can spin a loop myself. Anyway, 14" is too close to the 12" my 2511 wears. If I can use a 14", I can also make do with my lighter 2511 & 12". 16" is a better match for a bigger saw/bigger work imo.

I put these dogs on the 355...


They're kinda big, but the saw really sticks in place. Nice for bigger cuts, but unnecessary for light pruning.
 
Always a 14" for me right from the start on a lot of different saws till the 020T came out. Couldn't believe how that saw performed compared to the stuff before.
Still got the original one from May 1995 and it still goes well. It was a birthday present to myself.

I bought a little Echo when they first came out, it's sat in the shed most of it's life.

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my avatar.jpg
 
Always a 14" for me right from the start on a lot of different saws till the 020T came out. Couldn't believe how that saw performed compared to the stuff before.
Still got the original one from May 1995 and it still goes well. It was a birthday present to myself.

I bought a little Echo when they first came out, it's sat in the shed most of it's life.

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way cleaner than my 200t
the 020 was a 200t before the 200t came out right? no flippy caps and i believe a better carb?
 
I like a big bar on the smallest, lightest powerhead possible, I've been known to run a 20-25" 3/8 .050 b&c on a 261, but as you have seen, sometimes an 881 with a 20" is just right lol
 

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The Sugowaza looks nice. I use an Ibuki; it is about an inch shorter. Similar tooth size. You can do a lot of cutting with these tools.
 
Hey Rich. I recently got older so I receded to a 14” bar…. Little lighter little more Power (less chain).
I put a 14” lite bar on it and now it’s butt heavy…. Noticeably better for one handing, flips and other circus tricks.
 
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