Solo Tree Work

Cory, I agree to point.

As a general rule, I don’t rig from crabs due unless it is a one off cut.

The problem lies when a lot of stuff works but isn’t in the training literature. Someone new to the industry see’s AH and his Gopher doing it and because they are popular on YouTube it must be the right thing I do.

So someone might go too big and then that’s when the trouble occurs.

IIRC, Reg and AH has a little bit of a heated debate about this kind of thing years ago.

AH one handing every cut and blasting it all over YouTube. Once people start looking up to you then surely it is your responsibility to pass on good technique to the news faces in our industry?

N.B. I one hand all the time, it is how I was taught. It is also probably the reason why over the years I have had countless periods of tennis elbow and wrist problems.

I just don’t splatter it all over YouTube or if I am doing it in front of someone far less experienced, I try to explain the reasons behind my decision.
S’funny, but of all my body parts my wrists and hands are the weakest due to me entering my dotage so to speak.
But it’s the both of them rather than just the right, which is what you’d expect from a dedicated one hander.
Might go out and buy a 150 this afternoon and the bloody little Echo cannot be relied upon.
 
Never really run reliably, cuts out, difficult to restart.
Problem is I’ve spent maybe €1200 on it in total, cost of the saw and various bits (including the picco chain and bar) it’s in now getting a new ignition unit so that’ll bump up the overall total.

I don’t know when to stop throwing good money after bad.
 
2511 I assume? You might have just gotten a lemon. Mine's always run great. Lately, it's started starting a little hard after shutting it off. Setting fast idle will get it going easily, but I consider that a hack. I think with some knob twiddling, I can get it back to where it was. All my echos run really well. I like all of them.
 
Your chain, sprocket, and bar will move over to a new powerhead.

The 2500t I have had the rigid, one-hand hook/ unhook ring, with the lanyard attaching to the wrap-handle.

My 2511t's don't. A good feature. Do new 2511's have the improved racking hook?

I'm considering a ported 2511t if they do. I'll sell an old 2511t to upgrade.
 
I have 4. Never a lick of issues. I second the Lemon and you paid too much. But things are more expensive there I guess.
2511s used to be about 350.00 and change in CA. Now they are like 500.00 locally. Guess when you tell folks aint gonna be any more gas powered saws, the cost goes up.
 
Your comment about the 2500 mounting point is interesting. I never thought about lanyarding the 2511 to the side handle. It isn't captured like the 2500, but I don't necessarily see that as a big deal. I've been using a biner on my saws mainly as a bulky handle to grab, and prefer having the lanyard separate from that. I've tried lanyarding to the top handle, but that's less than satisfactory. I'm gonna give the side handle a try.
 
Your chain, sprocket, and bar will move over to a new powerhead.

The 2500t I have had the rigid, one-hand hook/ unhook ring, with the lanyard attaching to the wrap-handle.

My 2511t's don't. A good feature. Do new 2511's have the improved racking hook?

I'm considering a ported 2511t if they do. I'll sell an old 2511t to upgrade.
We have a guy for that here. :thumbup::D
 
A modded 2511 is like treating your feet to alpaca wool socks. You done really need them but when you try them you will wonder how you ever got along without them. So my advise is to indulge in the simple pleasures in life and not wait. Your feet will thank you, lol.
 
of all my body parts my wrists and hands are the weakest due to me entering my dotage so to speak.
But it’s the both of them rather than just the right, which is what you’d expect from a dedicated one hander.
Do you have arthritis or just weak spots?
 
Weak spots I reckon, nothing medical.

I used just a 200t for years for everything before the smaller saws were introduced.

Running a 14” bar used to really cause me problems due to tip heaving balance. Once I changed to a 12” bar it helped a lot of issues.

I really don’t know nor understand how the Stateside friends get away with a 16” bar on a top handle.

Probably pulls like shit through the wood and not to mention the nose heaviness.

Definitely not for me.
 
16" is a compromise imo. Good when the alternative is a rear handle. On the ground or in-tree, my preference is the smallest saw I can get away with.
 
I used just a 200t for years for everything before the smaller saws were introduced.

Running a 14” bar used to really cause me problems due to tip heaving balance. Once I changed to a 12” bar it helped a lot of issues.

I really don’t know nor understand how the Stateside friends get away with a 16” bar on a top handle.

Probably pulls like shit through the wood and not to mention the nose heaviness.

Definitely not for me.
Because this is 'Murica. The bigger the better. We get away with bigger trucks and food portions too.
 
I really don’t know nor understand how the Stateside friends get away with a 16” bar on a top handle.

Probably pulls like shit through the wood and not to mention the nose heaviness.
so, I do agree its nose heavy, my 194T wont pull a 16" very well but my 200T will no problem, I actually really like how it cuts, the video is in red oak

 
16" bar on a 200 is awesome for taking trees apart. Smaller bars are better for pruning IMO. Better balance. But, for weight and balance, I can still disassemble a lot of tree with a 12" bar until I need something bigger.
 
In the states we use long bars because these are average size trees, in a small European town I imagine they are typical smaller

I live out in the middle if nowhere so the average tree is twice as big as if I went 5 minutes into town Screenshot_20231030_105255_Facebook.jpg
Screenshot_20231030_105238_Facebook.jpg
 
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