Altissimus
TreeHouser
We all love buying gear ... investment really
Pulley sheeve size
- Thread starter Mesquite
- Start date
- Replies 94
- Views 3K
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Tenex for slings, not a running line.
Altissimus
TreeHouser
... it all depends , you can do tons of work (pun intentional) with that 1/2 beauty ... just don't over the shit out of it or the line. Actual guesstimate on weight plus any potential shock load. Truth is , to me blocks were stepping it up from natural crotch loweringHow about this block? Since the other guy is on the big side
Mesquite
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #31
For using 1/2 line do you think a medium friction rig will be good or do you recommend the large?
When looking at the rings and seeing how they are all spliced I always wondered how it would work with the rigging line running on the outside and have the eye go threw the middle. It seems like the bend radius would be better. And if the eye wasn't to tight the ring would act like a sheeve.
Whoopie vs loop which one do you like best? Or do each one have there own place?
I like the whoopie but I think if you can use the loopie in a basket configuration it should be stronger.
When looking at the rings and seeing how they are all spliced I always wondered how it would work with the rigging line running on the outside and have the eye go threw the middle. It seems like the bend radius would be better. And if the eye wasn't to tight the ring would act like a sheeve.
Whoopie vs loop which one do you like best? Or do each one have there own place?
I like the whoopie but I think if you can use the loopie in a basket configuration it should be stronger.
Altissimus
TreeHouser
The Port O Wrap ... a true friend
SeanKroll
Treehouser
FWIW, A simple ratchet strap works great for hanging the LD, keeping it from flopping, Stein or POW.
Ezpz to keep the tension right after things are pulled tight from lowering.
Ezpz to keep the tension right after things are pulled tight from lowering.
I don't think the other one is on the big side, i use the un-galvanized version of it exclusively. Affordable, large bend radius, and built to last; what more do you want? 2 tons wll on a pulley is only 1 ton on the line, which is what you are looking at negative blocking 500 pound chunks to help put that in perspective. I also am a huge fan of natty crotch, in illinois I'm usually in hardwoods so i don't see the reason to complicate the issue. I get using a pulley for lowering dozens of small sappy limbs from the same rigging point so the line isn't trashed but on hardwood you don't have that problem. Tossing a line over a crotch or a quick half hitch is all i need to start rigging, so I only use pulleys when I need to lift something or am rigging large enough that natural crotch is going to start damaging rope.
I've never seen how running a fancier, more expensive and vulnerable 1/2" line thru blocks or rings is a step up in production from simple natty crotch. I have seen how being able to take bigger pieces can help stuff go faster if they can still land them, but that's not going to happen with 1/2" rope and a pinto. With the spreading maples and stuff here I will often tip tie, winch up a bit, and then using a tag line swing the limb over obstructions, keeping the limb at the same angle it grew at until the sideways hinge breaks. I'll usually tie the butt as well so it doesn't just slam down, so I'm looking at either 2 lines or a spider leg, so usually just 2 lines. So I think going to a double bollard would be the best way forward for me in my market of spreading trees over all sorts of bullshit
portawraps work fine but i have found it's faster and easier to work off a bollard, not to mention it's far simpler to explain to new guys. It comes down to what type of work you are doing, but on the small stuff natural crotch is pretty much just the way to go unless you are trying to avoid sap and stuff imo. Get a hank of arborplex for less than 100 bucks and go make it back in a few minutes and be done with it.
I've never seen how running a fancier, more expensive and vulnerable 1/2" line thru blocks or rings is a step up in production from simple natty crotch. I have seen how being able to take bigger pieces can help stuff go faster if they can still land them, but that's not going to happen with 1/2" rope and a pinto. With the spreading maples and stuff here I will often tip tie, winch up a bit, and then using a tag line swing the limb over obstructions, keeping the limb at the same angle it grew at until the sideways hinge breaks. I'll usually tie the butt as well so it doesn't just slam down, so I'm looking at either 2 lines or a spider leg, so usually just 2 lines. So I think going to a double bollard would be the best way forward for me in my market of spreading trees over all sorts of bullshit
portawraps work fine but i have found it's faster and easier to work off a bollard, not to mention it's far simpler to explain to new guys. It comes down to what type of work you are doing, but on the small stuff natural crotch is pretty much just the way to go unless you are trying to avoid sap and stuff imo. Get a hank of arborplex for less than 100 bucks and go make it back in a few minutes and be done with it.
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
"Like a sheeve" is the issue here. I can see that for the small moves (adjusting the moving TIP on an high line) or the light loads ( redirect for the side control line of said TIP), but not for the actual lowering of heavy loads. Long runs and hight friction would give too much wear at the exact same point of the sling or the static rope going through the ring's center.
Mesquite
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #37
i ending up going with the cmi 2 ton pulley, i thought about it and remembered that i bought a 5/8 inch rigging line. i liked what you said tree09 it made a lot of sense and you are part of the reason i went with that block. the only issue with natty rigging is that some of our trees have thin bark actually most the trees i prune have thin bark out here.
have any of you guys used a pulley to raise limbs with a porta? a poor mans grcs? it goes something like this
once you get the hang of it, it seems like it would not take up that much time. the only down side i can see that im thinking about a work around is once the line is loaded how to safely and not have to rely on myself to hold or pinch the line to readjust or take the pulley of completely. the only thing thats on the top of my head involves another prusik attached to the porta, a progress capture. if you have done this what are the cons?
i also like this pulley
bishco.com
but they make a stainless version
sherrilltree.com
tree09 what part of Illinois do you work in? i have family in Peoria.
have any of you guys used a pulley to raise limbs with a porta? a poor mans grcs? it goes something like this
once you get the hang of it, it seems like it would not take up that much time. the only down side i can see that im thinking about a work around is once the line is loaded how to safely and not have to rely on myself to hold or pinch the line to readjust or take the pulley of completely. the only thing thats on the top of my head involves another prusik attached to the porta, a progress capture. if you have done this what are the cons?
i also like this pulley
RP105 CMI 5/8"Medium Pulley
RP105 CMI Medium Stainless Steel Rigging Pulley 5/8" Capacity
bishco.com
but they make a stainless version
CMI Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Pulley up to 5/8in diameter rope
The largest of CMI's heavy duty series. Stainless Steel sideplates, 4" Aluminum sheave, Bushing, and Stainless Steel axle.
sherrilltree.com
tree09 what part of Illinois do you work in? i have family in Peoria.
Altissimus
TreeHouser
I lower most of my stuff on 1/2 , occasionally for length break out 9/16 200' , hardly ever need to lower w 5/8 rare but has happened ...
I'm in peoria, who's your family? Its a smaller world than you would think! Good luck on the pulley, I'm sure it will serve you well for years to come. I also have the ss version of the pulley you showed, very nice but with the thinner side plates i wouldn't block with it. Fiddle blocks work fine, it's just slower and doesn't have progress capture so lifting can get sketchy if you aren't careful. You can also use a truck or machine to do the pulling for you if one's close enough. I use 1/2 for the light stuff and then 5/8 treemaster as i get in the bigger stuff. The 1/2 works well on my homemade grcs winch thing, so I use that for lifting duties for now. I'll also use come alongs or chain falls as needed, that's how i usually pull trees by hand.
I honestly don't worry about hurting bark too much, i mean the tree has already had to put up with a fat ass primate swinging on ropes and stuff for me to even get out there so a little burn isn't gonna kill it. You can also use a speedline sling or similar if you are so inclined for the little stuff. The bigger stuff will take a sling and shackle, ring, or block, but you can also natural crotch the weight and then trim the burned stub.
I honestly don't worry about hurting bark too much, i mean the tree has already had to put up with a fat ass primate swinging on ropes and stuff for me to even get out there so a little burn isn't gonna kill it. You can also use a speedline sling or similar if you are so inclined for the little stuff. The bigger stuff will take a sling and shackle, ring, or block, but you can also natural crotch the weight and then trim the burned stub.
Last edited:
Altissimus
TreeHouser
Agree , have GRCS but it doesn't get to the job often ... Getting good speedline technique together was a big up for me
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
I have used a couple times the maasdam with a prussik on the porty or the bollard. Handy when needed and no need of progress capture. But the setup is slow and annoying, even if it doesn't look complicated in theory. Maybe just a lack of training.
The fiddle blocks don't appeal me much with the 3/1 MA, a bit short as an advantage.
The fiddle blocks don't appeal me much with the 3/1 MA, a bit short as an advantage.
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
Same for me. Maasdam's rope puller gives a 10/1 MA on hand pull and a 60" range in one shot (for my rope). The fiddle blocks can't compete without going motorized or having a crew pulling on it.
I see just one real advantage with the fiddle blocks : that's a release at will of the load under tension, like let's drop it! Some have an integrated rope's capture tough.
It's more tedious for the Maasdam's rope puller (but way more secure) and a pain in the ass for my rope come-along (a naked simplified version of a tirefor).
I see just one real advantage with the fiddle blocks : that's a release at will of the load under tension, like let's drop it! Some have an integrated rope's capture tough.
It's more tedious for the Maasdam's rope puller (but way more secure) and a pain in the ass for my rope come-along (a naked simplified version of a tirefor).
I made up a set of fiddle blocks, 4:1 with some leftover yacht blocks. One has a whaddya call it...pincher catcher thing to hold the running end. Then you flip it to release it. It hung in the shed for years then BAM, I had a job where I needed it. Yippee, had it all reeved and ready to go. Probably would cost a few hundred dollars to buy similar from the Arb catalogues.
Mesquite
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #46
after seeing some mechanical advantage videos on youtube i was all hot and bothered until i saw the price of a good set of pulleys compared to the maasdam. then i realized i dont ever pull
anything. almost all my work is pruning and any trees i have dropped were not that big. i do plan to still get the maasdam because i love to be prepared for anything, i would rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. be there done that , not fun.
anything. almost all my work is pruning and any trees i have dropped were not that big. i do plan to still get the maasdam because i love to be prepared for anything, i would rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. be there done that , not fun.
Last edited:
If you do a lot of work by yourself, and especially in remote areas, the maasdam's definitely worth having. Not even just treework. Think about the times you had to move something big, but only had you to do it. The maasdam's slow, but it'll do the job. I think it was flushcut who said keep a 50' section to run through the machine, then prusik it off to a longer rope if needed. Works good, and you have less rope to deal with pulling through the unit. A 200' hank of Treemaster, cutting 50' off, will give you a lot of flexibility to get shit done, and it's fairly inexpensive.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Stretching fence. Plenty of uses. I dont run more than fifty feet of rope through mine. If you need more rope for distance, set the longer line in the tree and attach your pulling line to it further out . I just keep a prussic handy for mid line attatchment.
Jonny
Treehouser
Cam cleat.
I got a few too, very handy.
I also got the ISC Haulbiner set, easy 6:1 or 7:1, but takes a lot of rope. I got those setup with 300’ of 1/4” polyester double braid.
Similar threads
