yes the stein rc 2000 is one of my next purchases.
I highly recommend the FTC MicroCylinder.
I’ve always preferred a fixed bollard over a floating portawrap type lowering device, but I may be biased because I didn’t use a floating one until maybe 12 years into doing the work. You can definitely get by with either.
The MICRO-CYLINDRE 2.0 is a friction device used in tree care to hold and lower loads during felling and branch or log removal. It is a lighter and more compact version of the MINI-CYLINDRE 2.0.Made entirely of aluminum, it won’t heat up and won’t burn your ropes. It’s a clever addition to...
www.wesspur.com
Are you familiar with how the components should all be rated and where in your system the weakest component should be?
Obviously if anything breaks, someone made a poor decision, but if any part is to fail, it should be the rope. Slings that are holding blocks and lowering devices should be a little overbuilt compared to the rigging line. If the rigging line breaks, you’ll lose the piece, which could kill someone or smash a house and possibly have someone in the line of fire of getting whipped with a rope at a pretty high velocity.
If a sling breaks, you’ll have a portawrap launched very hard, upwards, possibly at the climber, or you’ll have a block launched at the ground. And you would also still lose the piece.
Usually (maybe not always?) with the most common ropes you see used in tree work, that means you’ll see 9/16” or 5/8” slings on blocks, rings, and lowering devices used with 1/2” rigging ropes, and 3/4” or bigger slings used with 5/8” rigging ropes.
Make sense?
If you actually need 3/4” rigging lines with 7/8” or 1” slings, you’re braver than me. I don’t trust most trees to hold up to whatever forces it’d take to break 5/8” double braids, but I’m cautious to a fault probably. I’ll always choose to take a smaller piece. My 5/8” rope is rarely used.