pole vs tree gaffs

Stepping down extends the inner gaff, pulling out allows the spring to retract the gaff.
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Jomo
 
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  • #29
You can only sit in your saddle with a rope in place.
lower D's seem to help, I always just spur up to the first limb (not on trims duh) and set a line, then use my long lanyard, flipline and climb line to flip/flop up the tree, works well and is safe ish, I gotta buy a new throwball, mine is at the end of its lifespan, but always a great feeling when you hit what you want

2 throwline rules: 1: you never say where you want it
2: thats where I wanted it
 
Yesterday, I had a terrible alder and a maple with a defect in the base. I threw 4 times to get a tight TIP-window in a maple with the defect, installed my rope with a base-tie. Bounce tested it. Gingerly climbed up the alder, not tying in locally, in case it broke, but a lanyard in a decent stem behind me for popping the top. Swing over, take care of the maple. Both trees down quick and easy with overhead support the whole time, after testing the high TIP. I was solo. Because I was supported overhead the whole time, I could sit in my saddle, swing around to wherever I needed, and throw all the branches into the chipping pile, oriented right for chipping, and could push chunks into the gravel to clear the rock-garden, power outlet, and asphalt.

As I said, throwline skills pay the bills, IMO.


IMO, you should have 3 throw weights and two throw lines minimum.

I'd encourage you to develop throwing/ APTA'ing/ Bigshot-ing skills, and bag manipulation.

Last summer I climbed a dead tree to install a pull line for ground felling. That the last one I can remember climbing for setting a pull line. Its the only one I can remember, as it had been so long before that.

Setting 90-degree retainer lines is a big help to stay on the ground, and fell trees, rather than piecing them out.

$0.02
ymmv
 
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  • #33
I'll look in my shop today. They should be "standard" size. Are you around average height?
im somewhere around 6ft, havent measured recently, doing a job tomorrow, gotta pay the groundie and order a rigging rope and slings, shoot me a message tomorrow afternoon with pics and a price, I will see what I can do, not worried about pads or straps, I can always swap them over from the spurs ive got currently
 
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  • #34
IMO, you should have 3 throw weights and two throw lines minimum.

I'd encourage you to develop throwing/ APTA'ing/ Bigshot-ing skills, and bag manipulation.
another thing on my purchase list, its amazing how easy you can go "oh, I need another throwline set, and a cube, and spurs, more biners, oh... im up to 5K somehow"
 
You mentioned CCA gaffs earlier, I got those on my buck titaniums that I never use. Seems like a total gimmick though, I’m not claiming to be the smartest fella around, but I fail to see how they’ll perform any different at all.

If you know anyone with a decent mill for machining steel, they might be able to just machine those grooves into normal pole gaffs. I wouldn’t bother though.

Some Buckingham spurs are weird. They’ll be replaceable gaffs, but you can’t just swap tree gaffs onto ones that came with pole gaffs. The point will end an inch below the bottom of the stirrup.
 
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  • #37
Biners really get me. I think I have enough, get my stuff out, and think "I need more biners" :^/
yup, right now im on some mixed screwgates, single locking, and double locking, gonna order a few ultrao triacts to swap into my climbing system, make it neat and matching
 
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  • #38
Some Buckingham spurs are weird. They’ll be replaceable gaffs, but you can’t just swap tree gaffs onto ones that came with pole gaffs. The point will end an inch below the bottom of the stirrup.
yup, seems like its on purpose, to get you to spend hundreds of clams on another set of irons
 
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