About five o'clock (or seven) after making a little room on the side of the back strap.
Here he put them just against the hinge for one and just 1" away from it for the second. He had to pound them at least 4 time harder to get the same result.
It's like tying a pull rope at hand reach instead of hight in the crown. But you know that.
Use all the leverage you can get, that lessens the strain in the critical points and eases the things.
And maybe saves the day.
Towards target direction, most leveraged distance from fold line to that direction, favoring 5 or 7 o'clock if 6 not available/as most powerful
>>Slight sideLean to 1 o'clock>> then would go for 7 o'clock back strap/trigger and 5-6 o'clock wedge
cosine wise still 86.6% of 6 o'clock forward force maintained @5/7 o'clock
.
.
.
I don't get that extremely open face cut.
Takes forever to make and doesn't work any better than a normal one...
I'll use an open face if I'm trying to work against side lean, and want the hinge intact for as long as possible.
I've never understood the "it stays on the stump longer" or whatever the thinking was. Murphy sure liked using it. I've never seen a single person use it IRL.
.
i think mostly want less cutting, and predictable close/shear/throw away from me
Special occasions like sideLean, windy days with lots of sail, obstacles need to push thru/by, downhills, playing around, doing demos etc.where more 'hang time' was desired. Otherwise w/o special invite i want that thing gone with earlier close/shear.
.
Mostly if i used wider faces in tree; especially imagining hinge as butt tie that i used with rope to usher hitch point under/towards support point, then cut butt tie/hinge as expendable (actually did butt ties w/quick releases or cut junk rope for same effect also)
.
i like 14' 200t in air;
but 16" 460 as walking saw....
.
You can run a rope w/o burning it - just don't go heavy OR get a bigger rope.
Preferably both.
.
Sometimes slower helps, i've worked breaking friction up rather than one concentration also.
>>sometimes by having carabiner inches over (when line loaded) large support branch to get part of the friction effect with ease in between.
>>many times used carabiners to bend lines to or fro to increase/decrease friction factor and incidence for different load weights w/o resetting line,less weigh make carabiner bend line from frictions somewhat etc..
A number of times rigged off an upside down Porty, also an oversized clevis that i wet ground the numbers off of for frictional redirect/heatsink.
>>then perhaps wood frictions metered in after that takes primary hits/loadings
.
I'd rather pull a fall with well placed line than push with wedgie(but would use as anti-sitback on occasion)
edit!: It would be more efficient to exert force from 5-7o'clock
BUT; if want to exert more effort, certainly 1" lift 4" behind hinge both sides IS more pressure than 1" lift from 24" away
The same amount of lift from rear takes less effort to it's 1" max range;
side lift 1" is more effrot yes, but then places out of 1"rear lift range; just less efficeintly
I also noticed the American inflections... but still enough Scandinavian to make us believe it's really you.
