milling thread

So next time I hit a rock, I should bemoan the fact that I'm a short bar guy:lol:
 
Just playing with a nearby 16' cedar log after making a quick, make-shift rainfly...easy up, easy down.

I was about to cut it into a cant, at dark, but thought it might be better to bookmatch it for a table top/shelves/ mantles. Been down a while, somewhat drying. Bark falling off...a "buckskin" as my miller neighbor calls them.

this was my first quality log that I milled, having resawn some things, yesterday.


The starter cord jerked back at the "run/stop" lever, breaking it off.
That didn't take long!!
I manually depressed what the lever usually depresses (some switch that stops it from "grounding out") to finish.

I expect to look into the electric start upgrade option. 14 hp with plenty of compression.
 

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The pull start on my woodmizer can take an arm off as well. I lower the head as low as possible to I do not get my arm/hand/wrist to hit the handles. These 14hp motors have so much compression.
 
yes, its wonderful for cutting dimensional lumber out of large logs. fun to see the piles of lumber growing with no additional log handling. i dont have the slabbing attachment as im still puzzled what to do with all the slabs i have from chainsaw milling :)
 
What causes the crosswise scratching/ ridges on bandsawn boards? I was just looking at one piece currently sitting on the mill. It has much closely spaced marks where I think I was starting with a slower forward speed at the beginning of the log than halfway through the board where they marks are spread farther apart.

My neighbor's hydraulic feed is a presumably a pretty steady feed rate and the marks are pretty consistently spaced.
 
I'd say that due to an uneveness in the teeth's tweeking to create the kerf. One or many are set wider than the average and carve a wider kerf on their path. Hand sharpening or small hit/bend on the blade. It can be done too by a sligthly off weld to close the band. Perhaps a build-up on the blade or some dull teeth can do that too.
With a slower move forward, the band turns more times on the same length of wood, hence the closer spacing of the scratches. The hydraulic doesn't allow this variation.
 
Pull start kickback on 4strokes can be caused by incorrect valve clearances I believe it messes with the decompression. Easy fix if OHV. Less so if flathead. Check if too loose on the intake IIRC.
 
Bart said:
Check if too loose on the intake IIRC.
Click to expand...
How would that cause kickback?
My dad had a wood splitter that used to start easy, then it seemed like it would flood on the first pull every time I'd try to start it, such that I'd have to either let it sit for a day, or disconnect the fuel line and crank it several times. Not long after I relearned how to start it, mostly by letting it idle slowly before finally shutting it off, the spark plug was found to have a huge gap. Maybe that changed the timing somehow, because it used to kick often. It also never had the valves serviced. I used to think kickback was caused by a lean mixture and too much timing advance. My modified 660 would kick sometimes, and it has timing advanced. My solution was to give an extra pull on full choke or try to set the choke lever just a hair off full to get it to start from a rich condition instead of a somewhat lean one. Lean could cause the fuel to all burn before TDC is reached.
 
I tweaked my shoulder a bit on my log splitter yesterday.

Considering Ready to Make Pull Starting Engines a Breeze? ⋆ Pullstarters.com - https://pullstarters.com/

Idk that my M12 still would be enough, so a new drill would add to the cost.


It would be a useful tool to have around the neighborhood.

Recently, I was jerking the pull corn on an engine my neighbor was fixing so he wouldn't have to.

Two of my older friends who I'd give my shop lock combination to, for anytime access, are across the street and less than a mile away.

I don't know if it would fit in the frame of the sawmill. I might be able to upgrade to an electric start.

Any alternate ideas for pull- start engines?
 
I don't see why a battery drill is essential. A used heavy duty corded drill should work as well, and not a big extra cost.
 
I hit the log clamp on the mill with the blade for my first operator mistake, besides breaking off the fuel lever (on order) with the recoiling starter handle.

A new torque wrench is great for setting the tension. My old one is a deflector one that I don't really use. Now, I have a click-type!

MIlled some 2"x2"x12' for strips for hoop house purlins, resawed some 4" elm slabs into two pieces, each, flattening them before going into the planer, and sanded some little chunks of interesting maple from the little bandsaw into fidgets or "worry" blocks, key chains or backpack decorations for my daughter.

She had been selling origami to classmates with her friend, but newness/ interest from kids has warn off. She might like to make some backpack 'flair' blocks as her next item. She and I started a free website for her craft biz interest, but I think it may have been lost.

Previously, I'd make some bigger chunks into a pen holder, especially for the pens with the battery bottoms ;) or a Sharpie. Pen holder and fiddle in one!
 
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