milling thread

Back to more basic questions, I was talking to a chainsaw mill owner and he was recommending me to go from 50:1 mix to 32:1 mix when using my 395XP while milling. I have always stuck to recommended manufacturer mix so I am wondering if this is can be done without tinkering with the saw.
 
You can do so without adjustments. But keep an eye on the plug...you may well get fouling and want to change plugs from time to time. Perhaps it won't be an issue with milling, as the saw will be running full throttle most of the time.
 
Thanks B. Here is the first cut. I just used my regular cross cut chain so I am expecting even better results with a rip chain. There is a winch on the sled. It makes the work effortless.
 

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Anyone try this guy's technique he gets into around the 9 minute mark? I did a quick test cut the other night and was fairly impressed. I've done enough chainsaw milling to know how bad it can suck. I think because he's getting a partial noodle cut, you can get through a log way faster...
I'll apologize now if this has already been discussed (I haven't read all 56 pages).

Brock
 
I don't know about that Brock. I don't doubt it works well if you maintain perfect control of the saw, but that's the hard part, no? I'll give it a try some time, but I'm skeptical it'll give *me* better results than my mill.
 
Yeah, I thought the guy was maybe some laser straight cutting anomaly of a human, but it worked well on my first cut. I'm going to try some more, to see if it was just beginners luck. The speed was amazing, compared to normal chainsaw milling, though not a very ergonomic work position.
 
I tried that to split in two on the fly for garden purpose a log of Arizona cypress. Maybe 20" down to 16" diameter and about 17' long. It was by eye sight, so not so accurate to start with. It works well enough, but it's easy to deviate a little each time and bite the side of the kerf. I got a kerf a good bit wider than I wanted but not so bad for a first try.

I was more pleased than with my first try with the chinese alaskan mill. It was a 36 /34" cedrus log, 3 meters long. I cut 4 slabs for the HO, but they were curved in the width. Looking more closely, when the mill's bolts are tightened, the bar is bowed ! I have to work on the parts to get them right.
 
Hey Burnham! Things here are good, I'm working toward a hip replacement, but other than that I can't complain. I might have taken following in your footsteps too far :)
Always good to read you!
 
Well, I did a few more test cuts with that guys method. You definitely loose some wood to the wide kerf you end up with. And I had some trouble with my 20 inch bar, probably mostly the hand filed chain. The main thing I found is getting your log on flat ground and starting with a small saw (14 inch bar) seems to be key. And swinging the saw back and forth (wildly) like he does, doesn't allow the bar to start a new kerf...
I think if your plan is to run your boards through a planer this method could work good enough. Or if your doing that backyard job and see some heartwood that you have to take home, this method will work. Quick and dirty!
-Brock
 
Nice piece. My apples are alive, about 8-10", but their trunks are already decayed. Grafted tree in a town's garden isn't a good card to start in the life.
 
I think black locust lumber is decay resistant. Hope so, because I made my wife a garden planter thingy outta some locust 4x4's I milled a couple months ago .
 

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Any plans for the wood Raj? I was hoping to get some saw logs out of mine, but it looks like they're gonna be firewood. Not sure what I'd do with them, but some rot resistant lumber would be good for something.

edit:
BTW, what's it smell like? Something stinks by my drive. It was either the locust, or some kind of shrub I cut to get access. Smells kind of like ants or stinkbugs. I've cut locust before, and didn't notice it, but it was fallen and dry by the time I got to it.
 
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