milling thread

Started on the sugar maple I took down yesterday. The ladder twisted like a twizzler. Took a couple passes to get back to a straight surface. I have a free ladder for whoever does not want to use it for chainsaw milling.
 

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My rebuilt 088 and a reconditioned 36" bar. The carb settings are not jiving. They seem to be 1/2 turn extra to get it to run properly.
Testing my repair jobs on some solid apple, not sure if the 088 is ready to go back into work. 20201020_155905.jpg
 
Narrower stickers!
Put the end stickers right at the ends of the boards which will help somewhat in reducing the lumber splitting
 
Maybe it's time to revive this thread...I've dabbled with chainsaw milling on and off over the years and it's a bit of a love / hate thing to me. Lot's of time and energy goes into it for a low output when it is all said and done but it has it's place. Here's a few pictures of my rail set up that I've settled on made from aluminum rails I salvaged off the beach in front of my place many years ago. DSC02292.JPG DSC02293.JPG DSC02294.JPG DSC02295.JPG

This isn't a particularly nice log but it was in the yard and I can always use some dimensional lumber now and then for projects.
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I've always been amazed at how accurate things can turn out if everything is tuned up properly and you take your time. A number of years ago I salvaged some dead red cedar and milled it into tapered siding for a garden shed I built. I broke the logs down into cants first and then used a jig I made for my Granberg to saw the tapered siding. The overlap groove was routed out.
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That siding looks great, and I really like your rails. That's the worst part of milling; getting it all setup. I have some apple in backyard I need to mill, and I need to do something with the rest of the ash at work(I think I've decided on 2" slabs to make stock for tool handles). I have a hard time getting motivated because of the setup, and since I don't have any particular need, I don't get to it.

That's an interesting chain. I guess I'm seeing it in an unfinished state, and you reduce the top plates by 75%? Is that to reduce drag?
 
It's actually a finished chain. Every other pair of r/l teeth are ground thin to serve as "scoring teeth". The full sized teeth remove the remainder. Scoring teeth have a more aggressive raker angle (depth)...at least that's the way I've been doing it.
 
Does that dramatically improve performance, or is it more nuanced? I'm just using my regular rm2 chain filed to ~5°
 
I think it would depend a bit on the size powerhead you are using to take advantage of it. It cuts quite fast for me using the 395. I break down the large logs initially with 36 " b&c (if need be) and then switch to 24" b&c to finish up. Using the shortest b&c you can get away with speeds things up and reduces sharpening time as well.
 
I've got a bunch of milling to do, but have had a hard time getting motivated. I need to get on it before the heat gets ridiculous.
 
Just brought home two more trailer loads.
One of our neighbors is eyeballing for countertops and cabinets
Stehanson made a desk out of some he scored.
He wants more for hobbie.
Rob made countertops out of some he laminated together.
We have an accound we'll be able to get long boards off. Logs setting from this years storm.
I really need more pine done. Trying to get a custy to let us mill on his place. The spar still standing where they snapped off are plentiful and fresh.
I estimated about 20.
 
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Bummer. What are you gonna do with the pine? There's a few nice logs on the job I'm working on, but I'm not sure it's worth it(to me) to save some for milling. I hate to see them wasted, but I'm not terribly excited about the wood.
 
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