Hitch Hiker Reviews

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Dave I noticed you got a TM harness. Do you prefer it over the petzl sequoia? I had Tophopper's used TM and spent about 2 months climbing in it before I traded it and went back to the sequoia. I thought the TM was more comfortable but didn't fit as snuggly as the sequoia. Interested in your thoughts, and sorry for the quick thread hijack!

jp:D
 
Today, I tried to video the two systems but rain interrupted me. So, I only got the Rope Wrench Rope Walker (RWRW) done. :(

The Hitch Hiker Rope Walker (HHRW) will have to wait for another day ... sorry, Paul. However, the HHRW works almost exactly the same. :)

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/t8FBQgpRSZw?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

OK, Paul ... had a small removal and a light prune, today and nice weather. So, I got a chance to do a short, un-edited vid of the Hitch Hiker Rope Walker (HHRW):

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/DSHt_gijntM?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Dave I noticed you got a TM harness. Do you prefer it over the petzl sequoia? jp:D

Yes I do. The Petzl Sequoia is a very good harness but I think the TM has it beat in a couple of areas. The leg straps are wider and offer more support. The funky vinyl base material is stiff, again giving more support. The way the waist belt, legstraps and bridge interact is very smooth and allows for a somewhat greater range of motion. This is particularly true when compared to the SRT model.

I have not been able to keep any harness snug enough, in the low position I like to wear them, that I could go without a shoulder strap of some sort. This is not a problem for me and as you can see in the picture, clipping the Hitch Hiker into the shoulder strap makes for a clean SRT rope walker attachment by removing the slop from the bridge.

Dave
 
Nice system Jack, I really like the symplicity of it. I need to modify it a bit to incorporate a knee ascender so it will work when I have hooks on as I do mostly wrecks. Then Ill be styling....
 
Jack, it is always a pleasure watching your videos; simple and straight to the point. You have come up with a cool and simple setup. I would like to comment on a couple of points that I am sure you are aware of but others might not be.

A rope walker system generally has three ascenders, top, middle and bottom, not for the sheer joy of complicating things but to lower the work load on the arms. You are acheiving the same thing by using your feet to brace off the tree trunk. This is, I think, the best way for most climbers to learn SRT systems because all it takes is a foot ascender and your friction device.

But when you try an open air ascent you will notice how much more load your arms must hold without the trunk to brace against. By using a middle ascender that is held in place by a shoulder strap or harness you accomplish two important things. First, you change the harness geometry from a sit harness to an upright harness. This greatly reduces how much you need to use your arms to maintain an upright position. Second, the upper ascender can now be advanced with less effort as you are no longer lifting the weight and drag of the middle components each time you raise your left arm. These may not seem like too big of problems but in open air and with longer ascents the difference will be noticeable.

Dave
 
Valid point, Dave. Good that you put it out there. Fortunately for me, long all-air climbs are rare. When necessary, I use the Secur and knee ascender shown in this vid. With that system, I can even climb without using my arms at all. That's useful when pushing through a crowded crown. And, it too, works with both the RW and the HH.

Since most of my air climbs are short, I've got high hopes for the RWRW & HHRW ... time will tell ... anyway, beats footlocking ... :)

Thanks, Jack
 
Cool videos comparing the two Jack. Does the HH require more pressure to engage the hitch for descents? Also, can you make more than one braid below the wraps on the VT? If not, do you counter this by adding more wraps at the top which appears like most people are doing? The HH looks really smooth from the video....

jp:D
 
A few more questions about the HH, apologize if these have been addressed in other threads. Do you have to use 8mm beeline? Can you use a different cordage such as armor-prus and a different diameter (10mm)? Also, does the HH perform the same on static lines such as snakebite and at different diameters like 10mm? I'm guessing you would just have to adjust the friction hitch but wondering from people who have used it on static lines like KMIII?

jp:D
 
Actually, Jon, the HH comes with a 3/8" (10mm) Beeline with very specific instructions as to how the hitch is to be tied. But, I've only had the HH for a week. So, I haven't tried other combinations of hitch & rope - just RopeTek's recommendations.

On the RW, I like the 3/8" Beeline tied with a Michoacan.

As to comparing the two, it is very difficult. They both have very similar 'feel' when working. It all boils down to your personal style.

The HH is heavier but more compact. So far, it seems, the HH is more hitch sensitive until dial-in. To me, the HH is a bit more 'fiddly' to install & remove. And, you have to add (make) a very custom tending loop. Dave has made the coolest one, so far. I imagine Paul will address that issue.

The RW (with stiffy) is lighter but takes up more space on the rope and in the kit (because of stiffy). The RW is more hitch friendly (more options). The RW is slightly easier to install & remove. You also have to add a tending loop but it's easier to make.

Price is almost the same when you include any extra stuff required to be fully operational.

They are both wonder products - true advancements to the industry. :thumbup::thumbup:

Your only choice is to buy three of each and decide which best suites your personal style. :D:D:D
 
Just made this. Probably a bit too short but I'll see on Monday.
y3e8ebes.jpg
 
OldMTC, before you use that, try to force the loop up and over the top of the Hitch Hiker. The first one you made might be a little short, but if you try and use one that is too long it could potentially interfere with the HH's normal functions.

The pictures I posted earlier had a ruler in them for size reference. Also, the holes in the loop need to be tight so it works as a corner trap but not so tight that it is a pain getting on and off. I added the slits to the holes on mine because the small holes that gripped the carabiner so well were also too hard to get on and off with the stiff material I used.

Dave
 
Thanks DMc.
It doesn't reach over the top of the HH when I push it by hand but it is close so I'll have to keep an eye on it whilst climbing.
I made the holes by heating a screw driver and pushing it through. Then I used a chainsaw file to expand the holes to just the right size.
 
I'm still struggling slightly in two areas advancing the HH up the rope.

1: While I'm on the Pantin using the sit/stand for short ascents.
Do you grab the Oxan under the HH to push the HH up or do you grab the bottom of the HH and top of Oxan together?
I found the latter doesn't always release the Oxan from the rope.
I did find that clipping the chest strap on to the harness ring advanced the HH instantly and the rope self tailed. Brilliant. I'll try the new Cobra loop tomorrow.

2: Coming in from branch walks.
A RW/HC requires rope tending by pulling up on the tail which I always thought to be ergonomically inefficient. The HH doesn't have a roller which means pulling the tail up doesn't always work as the Oxan sometimes stays locked on.
Grabbing the Oxan to push the HH up works perfectly but is often awkward to get my hand in place.

Has anyone figured out a slick technique yet?
 
...A RW/HC requires rope tending by pulling up on the tail which I always thought to be ergonomically inefficient... Has anyone figured out a slick technique yet?

I could not agree more. Having spent so many years climbing with friction systems where, if you wanted to go up you pulled down on your rope, the pull-down then pull-up style of climbing, though way easier, always felt inappropriate.

Simply putting the Hitch Hiker on a tether allows slack-tending in a slide-pull manner. It works just like an upper ascender. Just hold on to the carabiner and the advancing slide up is effortless and the re-grab is instant. There is something very old-school comfortable about using SRWP like this.

So now you have two options that make coming in from limb walks simpler. If your suspension point is high use the advancing loop, with the hitch adjusted right and enough tail rope weight the HH will self-tend. When there is less tail weight or the suspension point is at a lower angle, use the HH on a tether.

Dave
 
I hung christmas lights in my tree this morning. I am climbing on a prototype HH with Poison Hyvee. I noticed a distinct flattening of the rope after several up and down runs. Anybody else find this?

I think that the slots on the prototype may have had most of the pressure on the biner, secondary loading on the dogbone, and minimal on the hitch. Perhaps the production HHs have a more evenly shared loading, with the hitch cord re-rounding the rope.
 
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