Hitch Hiker Reviews

[Marc-Antoine]

i have noticed a tendency for the biner to get sideways under certain circumstances and that would handily solve the problem.

Ah, I feel less alone now !

From what I saw on mine (outside my poor setup), I think that one factor is the heavy gate on the biner. Overcoming this little disequilibrium by a little rubber stopper like the horse keeper should solve the issue.

 

[Bermy]

Boy, Marc-A gets points for spelling 'disequilibrium'!!

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Wow... 28 scrabble points

 

[bonner1040]

I just read a great review on WesSpur.

http://wesspur.com/items/asc184.html

Review by: Jamz Luce

“Every once in a while along comes a new arborist tool you gotta have. I have had the opportunity to use the Hitch Hiker for a few weeks. SRT access and working the tree on SRT have been game changers in tree work for many of us. I have used my Unicender and a Rope Wrench 2+ years. The Uni allowed new ways to work in trees. The Rope Wrench took that to a whole new level with its predictable smooth handling. The Hitch Hiker is a big step forward with many advantages over the Wrench.

With the Hitch Hiker, the mechanical friction is added below the friction cord making the whole setup more compact. The design is simple and solid. The release is smooth and the grab on the line secure. The hitch is easy to tend even when the line is only lightly loaded. This is a big advantage over the Wrench. The Hitchhiker works sweet when working a 3:1 off the single line. Working the Wrench you must take it out of the system to work on the dynamic 3:1.

I used HR for the friction hitch tied in a VT with 4 wraps on top with 3 crosses. This is on more wrap than I use on a DRT. The design of Hitchhiker makes breaking the friction hitch super easy and smooth. It doesn't seem to jam tight. The HH must be held in place to ascend efficiently. Same idea as using a Croll or Rope Wrench. The difference is you need to hold the place where it attaches to the saddle in place not the HH itself. When you get it dialed it is super smooth on ascent yet super secure to hold you when needed. Works great in long ascents with frog style systems plus gives you a great way to work or descend. Another nice application is to use it when you choke off a single line on a spar pole . Helps with work positioning and provides a second tie in that can be used to descend.

The Hitchhiker is more expensive than a Rope Wrench, but you don't need to add any parts to use it, and it comes with a hitch cord and biner. The carabineer is an integral part of the design that attaches to the climber, works as the fairlead and adds to the mechanical friction below the hitch. The construction of the unit is bomber. The unit I used had a finned base for dissipating heat of descent. The friction hitch cord length is easy to adjust due to the way it attaches to the top bar of unit. It worked smoothly on a variety of lines from 10 mm to 13 mm.

SRT tools are evolving fast these days. For now the Hitchhiker is a great choice.”

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The HitchHikers are still available through RopeTek but are also on sale at WesSpur. How cool!

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Yeah, saw that as I was placing an order yesterday... Sweet! Congrats Paul.

 

[DMc]

No, it's just too much stuff to deal with.

Hey, Butch, I am not trying to convert you with this post but your above comment is shared by many climbers. The thought of climbing and working sounds so different to what we are used to that we tend to over think and over complicate it. But once the understanding of how to use it sinks in, most climbers find they can leave all that extra stuff behind.

This is my most common tree entry setup. Once in the tree, the foot loop and ascender come off and are hung on my saddle, leaving just the Hitch Hiker and Pantin. This simple setup will work for 99% of all my trimming jobs.

I also would like to mention another area that the HH improves upon when compared to mechanical friction tools. Unlike them, the self-tailing qualities are adjustable. With careful attention to the friction hitch, the HH can be adjusted to very light self-tending while working low in the tree and then tightened up a bit when working the top so that the slack in the climbing line is not being gobbled up by the weight of the tailing rope. Self-tailing always sounds so good, and it is, up until the time you don't want it to. Working the upper canopy is much better when you can control this feature.

David

 

[Jack]

Dave, do you leave the Secur attached throughout the climb? Or, does it get attached/detached as needed?

BTW, compliments on the tending strap loop design!!!

Thanks, Jack

 

[DMc]

Jack, I do take it on and off as needed as it will limit and interfere with some lateral movements. When not in use, the shoulder strap gets clipped into the screw link on the saddle waist band.

David

 

[Jack]

Jaime, that was a wonderful video, well shot, edited and commented!!! Thanks!

Your vid, Nick's vid and Dave's pix gave me an idea. In your vid (@4:00-4:20), I noticed that the HH moved up and down with your foot loop. I wondered if I could eliminate the hand ascender (Basic) and just fasten the foot loop to the ring on my saddle.

So, today, I used your hand loop idea and fastened it directly to the HH to advance the HH while I stood on the foot ascender. Then, when I stood on the foot loop the HH would cinch and I could advance the foot ascender. It worked perfectly!!! I could rope walk with just the HH, one foot ascender, your hand loop and one foot loop.

Then, I wondered if it would also work with the Rope Wrench ... and it did! So, I could also rope walk with just the RW, one foot ascender, your hand loop and one foot loop.

AND, your Basic/Revolver 3:1 idea worked for both the HH & the RW.

Thanks, guys ... I've got some refinements to do but, so far, it's been a very successful simplification of rope walking with both the HH & the RW.

 

[bstewert]

Dave, nice pic!

How do you mean you can adjust your HH while up in the tree?

 

[bonner1040]

When in ascent, for me I need the HH's hitch to be super tight or, after moving up in pure ascent mode (rope walker, frog etc) it can 'not grab' if tied to loosely. I think what Dave means, is that because of the dogbone functionality you can ascend and then simply buck strap in and then add an inch or so into the hitch system by loosening the stopper knot.

I always opt to sacrifice a little tending smoothness and self tailing capacity for that instant grab. I tie my HH hitch with HRC cord and 6-7 wraps, all very tight.

 

[High Scale]

Pete sent me his HH to try out this week and after initially setting it wrong ( yes retarded) I set about climbing SRT and DRT up some very tall Limes, I've been climbing with the RW1 for well over a year and so I'm pretty used to SRT work positioning, the HH is the superior device IMO, the hitch being above the HH is a much better way of having it, much more natural for myself at least.

The only thing I would wish for is another attachment point on the HH for ease of attaching and reattaching.

Not a big deal though.

 

[DMc]

When in ascent, for me I need the HH's hitch to be super tight or, after moving up in pure ascent mode (rope walker, frog etc) it can 'not grab' if tied to loosely. I think what Dave means, is that because of the dogbone functionality you can ascend and then simply buck strap in and then add an inch or so into the hitch system by loosening the stopper knot...

People, especially anyone new to hitch-based SRT, need to heed Nick's warning on the initial setting of the hitch. Small changes in hitch or rope type can make dramatic changes in grip and performance. But that little cloud definitely has a silver lining. Those small changes that occur as the system sets can be used to your advantage once you fully appreciate how much change will occur.

So yes, this is what I meant, but with much less than an inch. My adjustments are generally no more than 1/4".

I am convinced by some of the reviews and comments that not all the climbers who give the Hitch Hiker a try, have fully tested or understand just how tunable it is.

Dave

 

[DMc]

...The only thing I would wish for is another attachment point on the HH for ease of attaching and reattaching.Not a big deal though.

You are not the first one to make this comment and I must confess, for some reason, do not see how this would be better. For DdRT, clipping the other end of the rope to the bridge ring seems to work really well.

Dave

 

[High Scale]

It's just pure idleness really, with the Hitch Climber pulley you are spoilt with attachment holes and change overs are simple as you just gotta strop in, un clip one krab and that's it.

I am lazy like that.

 

[Porkbrick]

Jaime, that was a wonderful video, well shot, edited and commented!!! Thanks!

Your vid, Nick's vid and Dave's pix gave me an idea. In your vid (@4:00-4:20), I noticed that the HH moved up and down with your foot loop. I wondered if I could eliminate the hand ascender (Basic) and just fasten the foot loop to the ring on my saddle.

So, today, I used your hand loop idea and fastened it directly to the HH to advance the HH while I stood on the foot ascender. Then, when I stood on the foot loop the HH would cinch and I could advance the foot ascender. It worked perfectly!!! I could rope walk with just the HH, one foot ascender, your hand loop and one foot loop.

that is something that i never thought of. one of the reasons i love this site. as soon as there is a brak in the rain here im going to go out and give that a try. eliminating the basic makes the whole system so much more streamlined (and cheaper).

 

[DMc]

... you just gotta strop in, un clip one krab and that's it...

OK, now I get it! Sometimes I can be so slow. :what:

Dave

 

[CurSedVoyce]

It's just pure idleness really, with the Hitch Climber pulley you are spoilt with attachment holes and change overs are simple as you just gotta strop in, un clip one krab and that's it.

I am lazy like that.

The ultimate in laziness.... Two HC Pulleys. One on the rope system and one on the bridge... Got cha beat mate

 

[PCTREE]

I've been climbing with the RW1 for well over a year and so I'm pretty used to SRT work positioning, the HH is the superior device IMO,

I dont think you can say which device is better, they both allow for the same purpose, ie climbing SRT with a hitch but do so by different approaches. For you ,you feel more comfortable with the HH, others seem to prefer the RW. To me I think the RW2 is more polished and lighter and with the stiff tether works well but has more components. I like simple and rugged which I think is reflected in the HH, very simple, bomb proof design with a very simple hitch. I have come to realize lots of folk like added complexity as it gives them the latitude to fine tune it to their preferences. When I climb I tend to be very motivated by my end goal (get er done) and dont pay a lot of attention to my system so a rugged simple system works well for this . Others I feel think of climbing as an art or maybe even a Zen like pursuit and their gear is an extension of this.
Everything I design is something I feel need to make my job either easier or just less frustrating, ultimately to get the job finished quicker....

 

[Jack]

Excellent post, Paul ... really admire your philosophy ...

 

[High Scale]

I dont think you can say which device is better, they both allow for the same purpose, ie climbing SRT with a hitch but do so by different approaches. For you ,you feel more comfortable with the HH, others seem to prefer the RW. To me I think the RW2 is more polished and lighter and with the stiff tether works well but has more components. I like simple and rugged which I think is reflected in the HH, very simple, bomb proof design with a very simple hitch. I have come to realize lots of folk like added complexity as it gives them the latitude to fine tune it to their preferences. When I climb I tend to be very motivated by my end goal (get er done) and dont pay a lot of attention to my system so a rugged simple system works well for this . Others I feel think of climbing as an art or maybe even a Zen like pursuit and their gear is an extension of this.


Everything I design is something I feel need to make my job either easier or just less frustrating, ultimately to get the job finished quicker....

Yeah sure they both do the same thing but I like the HH better after just two days climbing on it.

Both devices are examples of fine free thinking.

Respect to both you and Kevin.

 

[DMc]

... I have come to realize lots of folk like added complexity as it gives them the latitude to fine tune it to their preferences...

One of the things that makes the HH so great, is the adjustability and tunability within its basic design. It is such a relief to not have to make a bunch of complex changes to a tool in order for it do the job it was designed for. I am quite guilty of making things more complex in the search of performance but it is not because I enjoy it. It is because the better my tools work for me, the more I can get done with the least amount of effort.

I have not used anything more in-tune with tree work than the Hitch Hiker.

Dave

 

[Jack]

...
I could rope walk with just the HH, one foot ascender, your hand loop and one foot loop.
...
I could also rope walk with just the RW, one foot ascender, your hand loop and one foot loop.
...

Today, I tried to video the two systems but rain interrupted me. So, I only got the Rope Wrench Rope Walker (RWRW) done.

The Hitch Hiker Rope Walker (HHRW) will have to wait for another day ... sorry, Paul. However, the HHRW works almost exactly the same.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/t8FBQgpRSZw?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[bonner1040]

Cant wait to see the HH version. Remember the more tags you add to the video the more impact it will have!

 

[PCTREE]

looks like a very efficient and simple system.. Good job.