Hitch Hiker Reviews

I figured that the flattening was not a big deal. I worked the rope in my hands a bit, and it re-rounded.

I noticed from Donny's pictures that the lower slot on production HH is just that, a slot, whereas on the prototype it is more of a scalene triangular cut-out, which I think accounts for the lower biner being loaded more that the dogbone or hitch.

Once work picks up more, I'll be ordering a production HH, which I'm excited to try. I think it will be super smooth. By then, there will likely be the clip-in ascending accessory/ corner trap, as well, which will make it uber-cool.
 
I remember those days, Dave. When I used an e2e on DdRT I used to swap ends and alternately rotate eyes 180°, after each climb. That gave four orientations. IDK if it helped but it seemed good and was easy and free. It would be interesting to see; "... some evidence that trying to re-bend some of the synthetic fibers caused more strength loss." You'd think that re-tying the stopper could have the same re-bend strength loss since cordage often fails at a knot. Such re-tying & re-bend doesn't happen with e2e's.
Interesting discussion ... :)




Good point, Paul! Replacing the HH cord every few weeks sure ain't gonna break the bank ... cheap insurance ... a LOT cheaper than replacing an e2e. ;)
 
But when you try an open air ascent you will notice how much more load your arms must hold without the trunk to brace against. By using a middle ascender that is held in place by a shoulder strap or harness you accomplish two important things. First, you change the harness geometry from a sit harness to an upright harness. This greatly reduces how much you need to use your arms to maintain an upright position. Second, the upper ascender can now be advanced with less effort as you are no longer lifting the weight and drag of the middle components each time you raise your left arm. These may not seem like too big of problems but in open air and with longer ascents the difference will be noticeable.

Dave

Dave, this is one of the main reasons that I use the Croll. After having 2 elbow surgeries in the last 2 years, I can't afford to much too much load on my arms. Does the Petzl adjustable shoulder strap and HH take the place of the Croll and work as good?
 
... Does the Petzl adjustable shoulder strap and HH take the place of the Croll and work as good?

The short answer is yes. But you should take another look at how things are arranged in my photo on page 6. I say this because you mentioned in another discussion that you might switch from the Tree Flex to a treeMotion. Having a separate point on the waistband for clipping in the Croll/HH like the TF or Sequoia SRT makes setting up a rope-walker simpler.

When running a walker off the main bridge you will need these things set just right.

1. Waist belt set low.
2. Leg straps set high and snug
3. Bridge short

What you accomplish with these adjustments is a harness that is less sensitive to leg movements. This is real important because everything is run off the main bridge which, by design, will put you in a sitting position every time your legs move up and it is weighted. These adjustments combined with a shoulder harness do a good job of reducing the amount off effort required from your arms to maintain an upright posture when running a walker system off the main bridge.

Dave
 
Nope, forearm and elbow. I wore one of those arm braces (I think I was wearing it in the avatar picture) and I would use the big vegetable rubber bands around my fingers and spread my fingers apart against it.
 
I used this one, it worked well.

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So I went for a fun climb with a group of local climbers today and got to try out the Hitch Hiker for the first time. And I have to say, this is one sweet, sweet tool. I can't remember the last time I got up a rope so quickly and so easily. And with minimal gear! All I used was a foot ascender and over-the-shoulder lanyard to tend the HH, and it felt far faster and smoother than my rope walking system. For a long climb the rope walker might be more energy efficient, though, and being able to incorporate the HH into a rope walker will be pretty cool.

Previously I have only used SRT for access, so this is my first foray into using it for working the whole tree. The HH definitely has a different feel from DRT that will take some getting used to, and I am going to have to wrap my head around a whole new system of tying in, changing tie in points, and moving around the tree. I think it'll take a bit of practice before it gets intuitive, but I can see big potential advantages.


One of the other climbers had a Rope Wrench (the newer model, with a stiffy), so I got to try that out too. Verdict: hands down the Hitch Hiker. The HH is more compact and didn't need the occasional tending that the Wrench and tether sometimes required to get things to engage correctly. I figured the Wrench would be smoother for slack tending due to the pulleys involved, but once I got the HH dialed in I felt it was just as smooth. And because the hitch on the HH is so tight there is almost no setback after taking up slack. I love that!

You've got a great tool here Paul, my helmet's off to you! I think the guy with the Wrench was sold on it too. Bookmarked the Ropetek website on his smartphone, so hopefully you'll see another order from HK soon. :)


Unrelated to SRT, but I also got to try out another guys SpiderJack. That thing scared the heck out of me, talk about crazy fast descent! Way too much finesse required to control it properly.
 
lol

The first time you use an SJ it's definitely a low and slow thing. It's probably the least forgiving friction device out there but on a rec climb probably the most fun.
 
Has anyone noticed if it makes a difference if the crossed legs on the hitch are on one side of the HH or the other? Or is it the same both ways?
 
It will work either way but it does seem to work better when the legs cross on the closed side. Have you been able to get some more time on it and if so, how's it working out?

Dave
 
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  • #194
I always wrap on the spine side which I believe is what Dave is referring to as the closed side. I have wondered the same question though but my cord seems to like going behind the rope as I look at it first (the spine side).
 
Thanks, I had the legs the other way around but then remembered that the pictures that came with it were like you described. Seemed to still work fine, though.

After more time on it I still think it's a great climbing tool. I've still got a lot to learn about tie-in-points, redirects, and changing TIPs, but slowly making progress. Definitely have to plan climbs a little bit differently with single line work. Overall, I'm enjoying the challenge.
 
I always wrap on the spine side which I believe is what Dave is referring to as the closed side. I have wondered the same question though but my cord seems to like going behind the rope as I look at it first (the spine side).

Ditto that. I tried both sides but for me it is certainly better wrapped on the Spine side.
 
When we topped that Linden alley last week, we used the HH, but in DRT mode.
It has the sweetest control of all the DRT devices I've used.
 
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  • #200
I love being able to switch from DRT to SRT and so forth... Working up a tree on spikes you can go back and forth SRT/DRT/Lanyard, or set a primary SRT tie in, but when its time to flop the stem you can either leave your climbing line up top and come down SRT using your line to flop it OR grab a stub and come down DRT getting your climbing system out of the way, whichever your preference.

Before it seemed like you either had DRT and its +/-'s or SRT and its +/-'s now you can use the HH to utilize the best of both without sacrificing. They tried to make me stop using it at Big Green (we are required to only use company provided PPE and its not yet an approved device) and I told em to go f themselves and hire a new trimmer or just look the other way.
 
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