Hazard tree contract fallers

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What is it, an anvil strapped to a length of tree trunk? :lol:


Pretty close. It'd bring the suck if I was working alongside mountain goats, but here it works dandy in several applications. I did use a 4lb contractor's hammer for a while, but I like the power of my current driver.

Head:
DSC00663.jpg


Stick:
DSC00664.jpg
 
The energy a given object (hammer!) hits with increases proportionally with the increase in weight, but squared to the increase in speed.
That is a formula that any martial artist or reloader should know.
In short, use a light hammer and some speed for the best result.

Burnham, in my neck of the woods the axe disappeared with the advent of the chainsaw, the trees don't have the thick bark, that you are used to, so an axe would only be good for splitting firewood, and I personally use my DSI hammer for that. Except for the really knotty stuff, then I cheat and use my 25 ton hydraulic log splitter!
 
The energy a given object (hammer!) hits with increases proportionally with the increase in weight, but squared to the increase in speed.
That is a formula that any martial artist or reloader should know.
In short, use a light hammer and some speed for the best result.

Burnham, in my neck of the woods the axe disappeared with the advent of the chainsaw, the trees don't have the thick bark, that you are used to, so an axe would only be good for splitting firewood, and I personally use my DSI hammer for that. Except for the really knotty stuff, then I cheat and use my 25 ton hydraulic log splitter!

You're making my case right on down the line, as far as head weight and the importance of head speed, Stig. How long is the handle on your DSI hammer? I'm betting if you split firewood with it then it's longer than my faller's axe, at 26 inches. The back side of the hammer face must be shaped about like a splitting maul, downsized...is that right?

Oh, and that's not cheating...that's being smart!!
 
If you look at the way most people use a hammer, they do so incorrectly.....by just wailing and not putting tension in their arm or arms to reduce bounce when at the point of impact. A lot of folks never pick up on that.

A small hammer used efficiently can be more effective than a large one used without the proper understanding. (old furniture maker's wisdom)
 
An axe head is the best shape for pounding wedges, especially if you've got them doubled, you can hit one at a time (or both) rather than smushing them with a rounder head such as a sledge. Less broken wedges also.
Not to mention what do you use to tidy up your wedges? That's what the other end of the axehead is for.
 
The energy a given object (hammer!) hits with increases proportionally with the increase in weight, but squared to the increase in speed...

That's true, E=MC^2. In reloading, power factor (mass and velocity compared directly) and bullet design matter a lot more than overinflated ft/lb measurements.

However, coming back to the real world. I can match the power of your 5 lb hammer by swinging mine 79% slower.

I leave for a Cal test in 6 hours or I'd put more effort into figuring out a baseline swing speed on a "normal" sized hammer.

I would like to restate that Burnham works in mountain goat habitat, and in that case I'd rethink my driving options.
 
You're making my case right on down the line, as far as head weight and the importance of head speed, Stig. How long is the handle on your DSI hammer? I'm betting if you split firewood with it then it's longer than my faller's axe, at 26 inches. The back side of the hammer face must be shaped about like a splitting maul, downsized...is that right?

!

yep, it's 30 inches long and the head is shaped like a maul.
 
An axe head is the best shape for pounding wedges, especially if you've got them doubled, you can hit one at a time (or both) rather than smushing them with a rounder head such as a sledge. Less broken wedges also.
Not to mention what do you use to tidy up your wedges? That's what the other end of the axehead is for.

Here we run into the beforementioned regional differences again.

We don't stack wedges, we stack steelplates under the wedges( this has been covered in another thread), I've just started trying out nylon plates to cut down on weight, since I'm not getting any younger.
Also almost everybody around here use either steel or aluminum wedges, they are kind of hard to trim with an axe.
I use hardhead wedges, they don't need cleaning up, which in my opinion is one of the benefits of using them, along with great driving capability.
It has been my experience that it takes a lot more force to get a large widecrowned hardwood tree moving than a large conifer, but I'm not sure those of you who spend your time pounding wedges into conifers agree.
 
One last post before snuggling my pillow:

Old chairmakers framing hammer I picked up outside of London, and heavier than it looks. Mostly used to drive wedges now. "Hardhead junior" wedge with steel insert. Those drive good!

G'night...
 

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That looks just like a horseshoe shaping hammer. Does it have one flat face and one slightly rounded face?
 
Jay even if that little sucker is heavy, it sure looks short to me.

Yeah, and the same for Brian's framing hammer, or Jonny's baby Eastwig axe...there is absolutely no way y'all are realizing wedges' full potential...not even a fraction.

No wonder y'all use a pull rope most of the time :D.
 
If I don't get off this subject pretty soon, a bunch of y'all are going to use the back of your hand on my noggin just to hush me up :lol:.

I think there must be 3 or 4 threads in the Tree Felling/Rigging forum where I'm on the soapbox ad nauseum on the "proper" felling axe.

I'll shut up now :).
 
Yes, one round face and one flat face on the hammer. The handle is pretty short alright, probably one reason why I'm always losing it in the leaves and scrub. "Wedge potential inhibiting", as Burnham suggests....I suppose that must be true...and there was that time with a back leaner setting back over a road and almost hitting a car stopped at the intersection, but in most cases it works OK.

I think that if I was knocking down leaners on a regular basis, I'd have to go for a big sledge, that is if Willie wasn't around.
 
Amongst all the reading, I musta missed where I can buy a real wedge driver Burn?

Gotta link?

This came up in another of these wedge driver threads, I think the one I started titled something like "Bounce, why on earth does Wesspur not sell a proper fallers axe?" I posted a pic then, but I'm pretty sure this is one of the threads that lost attachments back in the crash...if anyone wants me to repost a pic of mine I could easily enough.

Here's a link to one supplier:
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15655&catID=

Note that Bailey's also carries a 3 lb. head model...I'd go with the 5 lb. one myself.

Bailey's carries a 5lb short handled axe. That the one you like Burnham?


Dave

That one should do the trick, Dave. I got the one I'm currently using at the local logger's supply/saw shop about 20 years ago, more or less.

Jerry Beranek mentioned a specific manufacturer, Stroh. I think they are long gone as a business, but if you ever find one, grab it. Big striking surface.

I once inquired of Jer if he'd sell one of his to me...still hoping he might :). I'd pay a fair amount to have one, especially one from the hand of Mr. Beranek ;).
 
Ah yes. I remember you asking, Burnam. It's been a while since. I went to the shed to sort through the many battle axes I have acquired over the years. And the only other 5 pounders I found are another brand. I thought I had another Stroh in the bunch, but not. So the one Stroh is all I have.

If it would really make your day to have it I guess I could let it go to a good home, where I know it will be appreciated. Send me your address and I'll UPS it up. It's a short handle for working in the sucker clumps. Painted blue.
 
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