MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Have you gotten new spur pads, Ed?
Hazard tree contract fallers
- Thread starter Burnham
- Start date
- Replies 194
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SkwerI
Treehouser
I open the picture with Paint, draw in my doodles and then hit 'save as' and specify saving it as a .jpg file.
PM me your phone number and I'll call you and walk you through it if you want.
PM me your phone number and I'll call you and walk you through it if you want.
Burnham
Woods walker
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #31
OK, I think I figured that out, Brian...thanks for the pointers.
Here's how that bore cut works to increase the flex in the hinge. Look where I painted in a red line right under the apex of the horizontal and slanted face cuts...visualize boreing in right there, right in line with the front side of the hinge wood, right up to that intersection, but not past it. Let's first imagine that you bore all the way through the tree and exit on the far side in exactly the same orientation to the hinge. What you would have accomplished would be to make some room with that bore, as wide as the kerf, that would allow the hinge above it to flex further forward as the tree commits to the face before stresses begin to break it.
In green wood of a species that hinges well, this doesn't really help much, but in dead wood or species that are brittle, this additional room to flex allows the hinge to hold a bit longer than it otherwise would.
Now back up to the boreing again...if you only bore in partway, say 1/3 of the diameter, you have set things up to have the hingewood on the bored side to flex better and thus hold longer than the un-bored section. So the tree should swing to the side you bored.
In reality, I mis-stated when I said Richard "swung" that tree 40 degrees...what he actually did was faced it 40 degrees to the side of the head lean and improved the holding capability of the hinge on the opposite side with the borecut. It swung a little, but mostly he kept the hinge functioning even though the heavy lean wanted to rip it off early on the side against the lean.
When I asked him about the bore, he didn't go into an explaination of how it worked, he just said something like "makes the hinge hold better on that side". He also said, "if you take a block out right there, it'll hold even more". It took me about half an hour of chewing it over in my mind to figure out WHY it worked...but I'm pretty sure I have it right.
Here's how that bore cut works to increase the flex in the hinge. Look where I painted in a red line right under the apex of the horizontal and slanted face cuts...visualize boreing in right there, right in line with the front side of the hinge wood, right up to that intersection, but not past it. Let's first imagine that you bore all the way through the tree and exit on the far side in exactly the same orientation to the hinge. What you would have accomplished would be to make some room with that bore, as wide as the kerf, that would allow the hinge above it to flex further forward as the tree commits to the face before stresses begin to break it.
In green wood of a species that hinges well, this doesn't really help much, but in dead wood or species that are brittle, this additional room to flex allows the hinge to hold a bit longer than it otherwise would.
Now back up to the boreing again...if you only bore in partway, say 1/3 of the diameter, you have set things up to have the hingewood on the bored side to flex better and thus hold longer than the un-bored section. So the tree should swing to the side you bored.
In reality, I mis-stated when I said Richard "swung" that tree 40 degrees...what he actually did was faced it 40 degrees to the side of the head lean and improved the holding capability of the hinge on the opposite side with the borecut. It swung a little, but mostly he kept the hinge functioning even though the heavy lean wanted to rip it off early on the side against the lean.
When I asked him about the bore, he didn't go into an explaination of how it worked, he just said something like "makes the hinge hold better on that side". He also said, "if you take a block out right there, it'll hold even more". It took me about half an hour of chewing it over in my mind to figure out WHY it worked...but I'm pretty sure I have it right.
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SkwerI
Treehouser
Amazing, who'dathunkit? 
This was obviously dreamed up by somebody who thoroughly understands the mechanics and physics involved in hingewood. I'm not sure I completely understand how it would work but I'm looking forward to testing it out at my earliest opportunity.
Does the vertical cut extend into the notch area or do you leave some wood isolating it from the notch?
This was obviously dreamed up by somebody who thoroughly understands the mechanics and physics involved in hingewood. I'm not sure I completely understand how it would work but I'm looking forward to testing it out at my earliest opportunity.
Does the vertical cut extend into the notch area or do you leave some wood isolating it from the notch?
SkwerI
Treehouser
OK, that makes sense.
pete mctree
Treehouser
Cool pics Burnham, always good to watch pros doing there thing.
I see the possibilities of the bore cut. I remeber watching an old faller using a "block face" (a block cut out as opposed to the usual gob) which he said maintained the holding wood longer. I have used it on several ocasions myself topping out big trees, but without the understanding of the mechanics. I can see similarities in the two methods as the hinge flexes for longer.
I see the possibilities of the bore cut. I remeber watching an old faller using a "block face" (a block cut out as opposed to the usual gob) which he said maintained the holding wood longer. I have used it on several ocasions myself topping out big trees, but without the understanding of the mechanics. I can see similarities in the two methods as the hinge flexes for longer.
Would that be a 150' tall stump?
Dave
No, I didnt mean that stump. The poster I'm talking about has 2 oldtimers working on top of the stump they just made from 1 of a 2 leader redwood. There's a pull cable hanging down from the remaining leader, probably Jerry had put it up there...
The caption is, "We came, we sawed, we conquered."
treesandsurf
Treehouser
Burnham, can you use this bore cut in combination with a tapered hinge to increase the effect?
jp
jp
K
Knotahippie
Guest
Great info. Burnham, never seen that cut before.
Bodean
Cali dreamer
Thanks For sharing Burn, You rip.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
No he bores.
I've used that cut for years on virtually all trees that we pull in.
I just don't use it on a humboldt but on a convenyional one.
We just refer to it as a vertical cut, for obvious reasons or A German, for less obvious reasons.
I don't even know why it's called that. Invented by a german faller, perhaps?
I just don't use it on a humboldt but on a convenyional one.
We just refer to it as a vertical cut, for obvious reasons or A German, for less obvious reasons.
I don't even know why it's called that. Invented by a german faller, perhaps?
sotc
Dormant hero!!
so do you keep it below or move it to the top? keep it low id guess, for the conventional face
darkstar
Rockclimber/ treeclimber
Wow i would love to hang with a felling crew for a bit and learn.
Burnham what do you guys do when one sits back hard on the wedges?
Really hard .
Burnham what do you guys do when one sits back hard on the wedges?
Really hard .
