Elm tree that splits into 2 sides, which one to cut first?

[kynight]

I have an Elm in my backyard I plan to climb up into with a blake's hitch rope to work on it from the bottom up. As the photos show, there's a left and right side going straight up from the main trunk. It's one of the taller, less wide Elm trees, several decades old with some early rotting spots it appears to me. I'm inclined to work on the right side first, as it's the side that moves the most in the wind, which almost hangs over my roof. I think it's the heavier side and also the side that leans out more.

I plan to ascend up a rope along the main trunk which is about 30' to the crotch, then use my flipline and spurs to position myself for cutting each branch, letting them fall directly down, as only 1 or 2 branches will need to be a controlled fall as they slightly hang over the roof.

Some background, I tried doing this with a 55' telescopic bucket, but it wasn't tall enough and my truck could barely maneuver it without getting stuck in my own back yard. A company quoted me $6,000, but I simply don't have that kind of money. I topped a tree last week after learning to climb, also attached. I would greatly value any tips or advise as I'm new to cutting big trees while climbing. I cut several in the past but those were from the ground, so I'm still new to climbing and rigging.

 

[flushcut]

My recommendation is to call around and find someone cheaper but still qualified.

 

[SeanKroll]

Call around for a high ground impact, no- cleanup price.

I like people getting in waist-deep and more, but that is swimming in water over your head with a heavy weight that is difficult to detach.

 

[treesmith]

Was the $6000 quote just to take it down, take it down and clean it up, or take down/clean up/ stump grinding? Without seeing more of what's under the tree, (and without knowing what all that quote included), it's hard to say whether that quote is a fair price, or highway robbery.

 

[kynight]

Was the $6000 quote just to take it down, take it down and clean it up, or take down/clean up/ stump grinding? Without seeing more of what's under the tree, (and without knowing what all that quote included), it's hard to say whether that quote is a fair price, or highway robbery.

I don't think the price is necessarily robbery, as all that's involved to do it the professional way. The 6,000 included clean up and everything. I don't remember the no clean up cost, probably at least half that. The tree is 20 ft from my home, but luckily the big branches hang to the side, not over my home. The other 3 sides have nothing except an old shed I don't care about.

 

[Maximalist]

I could easily chop down and saw this elm tree for firewood for $2,500. It's a pity that this tree is on the other side of a big puddle!) P.S. As far as I can tell, there's enough room to just put this tree on the ground....

 

[BIGTWIG]

@kynight

The pictures posted don’t tell the whole story, but I would not consider this to be a good beginner tree. Is it an emergency to cut it down? Can you save up for a little bit and get someone to put the tree on the ground for you?

No disrespect meant, but $6,000.00 is nothing in property damage or human injury. Some good advice has already been posted.

 

[SeanKroll]

A 60' rental lift would let you whittle it down.

 

[flushcut]

But then there’s the clean up.

 

[SeanKroll]

Yes.


It's easy to cut a lot of firewood-sized pieces if it can free-drop. Firewood sizes is the most useful size to use or be taken. He's already ready to clean-up.


A 67' self-propelled lift is $800 for a day with delivery for me. A 50' tow-behind is easy enough to tow and will reach a lot...$350.



Easiest to rig when you can fly around and not be attached to the party being rigged.

 

[treesmith]

I looked at a job for a guy a while back. He’d already looked into renting a lift and taking his tree down himself. I climbed it, took off the large failed limb that was still semi-attached and hanging off the side, hung a rope in it and pulled the rest of the tree over cheaper than the price he’d been quoted for the rent on the lift.

Just because you can rent a lift doesn’t make you qualified to take the tree down….

 

[Kaveman]

As a beginner you do not want to gaff an elm. Those be hard wood. You've gotta stomp your gaffs in deep to get decent purchase, and they'll separate your knee on withdrawal. Also climbing 30ft on a Blake's ain't for the faint of heart or the unconditioned. Do you have foot and knee ascenders?

Aside from all of that, don't bite off more than you can chew. I may know a guy that'll come out and climb it with you, walking you through the process the whole way.

 

[kynight]

Thanks for all the input. I attached some photos that show more of the ground below. As you can see there are heavy tire marks in my back lawn, from a 67' telescopic boom that was too heavy to work from. I had to remove the boom because it would have sunken in and got stuck if I used it. So my yard couldn't accommodate that. Then I tried one of the towable booms that supposedly goes up 60', and it well might, but it has to be directly under your work area to reach that high and if you fall logs or branches, it'll hit the boom's outriggers and cause a malfunction........ so this is why I'm now inclined to climb the tree. You think I want to climb it for fun? lol.

I ordered a foot and knee ascender and once it arrives, I'll be trying that out. I wouldn't mind working my way up to the top with ascenders if I can gradually toss my rope to the top. But even if I use the ascenders the first 30-35 ft that would be very helpful. I spiked up the 30' trunk and I really rather not do that again, because the bark is so thick you can't tell if it'll hold of gaff out. I was tied in good but it bangs you up and a waste of energy. I consider myself conditioned, definitely not overweight or weak. I just want to figure the smartest way and work smart. So far I'd like to top the left branch while on a blake's hitch and flipline up the right branch while still connected to the blake hitch. Probably not in one day, but I'm in no rush. I would break it into 5 days if I need to. I don't even want to remove the entire tree, mostly the outer branches and top, leaving a small Y shape skeleton that doesn't threaten my home.

 

[SeanKroll]

Climb to your high point, then consider what cutting will be like.


Can you wait until the ground hardens?


If you have to ask where to start, that's saying something.

If you're determined, people will armchair climb and rig it, and give you solid advice

If you're planning to climb it, will you be okay with bailing?

 

[kynight]

This is one I topped last week, it was leaning towards my power line. I had to climb it to top it so it wouldn't fall on my power line. That one was tough to spike because the trunk was hard, slippery and narrow, but after doing that one, I felt like I can do most trees with the right planning.

 

[kynight]

Climb to your high point, then consider what cutting will be like.


Can you wait until the ground hardens?


If you have to ask where to start, that's saying something.

If you're determined, people will armchair climb and rig it, and give you solid advice

If you're planning to climb it, will you be okay with bailing?

You mean saying "ok this is too dangerous", sure. I'd come down and make another plan. I don't plan on using another boom, the ones that go high enough either weight several tons or if it's a towable, my truck isn't heavy enough to move it around with out getting stuck. The towables weight 2 or 3 tons.

 

[SeanKroll]

Some bulk hitch cord and a boat snap to tend it would be minor costs for improved climbing over a Blake's hitch.

 

[SeanKroll]

Do you know about the circle of death?

Have you read a Tree Climber's Guide or similar?

 

[Kaveman]

Look we just don't want to see you hurt is all.

If you've already spiked it, just do it again. You don't spike except for removal as a general rule. Spike up, tie in, and get to work. Simple as. If you need guidance from there, it's because you need more practice.

Since we won't sway you from your path, all I can say is be very careful. This tree work thing is no joke, it can and will kill you. Period. A chainsaw is screaming death, I've never seen anything but the most horrendous wounds inflicted by them. The idea of being rescued aloft is a damn fantasy. If you screw up badly, you will only do it once. May God have mercy on your soul.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

"Conditioned" means trained, as in a high level sport, not just being in a good and healthy shape. The muscles don't like to do movements out of what they are doing regularly. That's why you found your spike climbing experience so difficult and exhausting. Too, the nervous system has to adapt all of its parameters to function properly in this new for him situation/task. Practice is key before jumping in the big job.

 

[SeanKroll]

Fitting your gear to your body is important. Gaffs adjust. Correct type of boots is important.

Relaxing is important, not over- gripping or under- gripping. Not too much body tension, not too little.

 

[kynight]

Do you know about the circle of death?

Have you read a Tree Climber's Guide or similar?

No, what's the theme of circle of death? I mostly watch others and learn hands on.

 

[kynight]

Look we just don't want to see you hurt is all.

If you've already spiked it, just do it again. You don't spike except for removal as a general rule. Spike up, tie in, and get to work. Simple as. If you need guidance from there, it's because you need more practice.

Since we won't sway you from your path, all I can say is be very careful. This tree work thing is no joke, it can and will kill you. Period. A chainsaw is screaming death, I've never seen anything but the most horrendous wounds inflicted by them. The idea of being rescued aloft is a damn fantasy. If you screw up badly, you will only do it once. May God have mercy on your soul.

Yeah it's definitely coming down, I didn't spike it just for fun. I have trees on my property I practice with, ones that I also cut down. I'm no stranger to chainsaws, I've owned several. I'm a bit surprised how taboo the topic of cutting trees is. You would think if anywhere you can get advise on a tree forum. But it's a new age now. I have enough advise to continue on, which is my own experience.

 

[kynight]

"Conditioned" means trained, as in a high level sport, not just being in a good and healthy shape. The muscles don't like to do movements out of what they are doing regularly. That's why you found your spike climbing experience so difficult and exhausting. Too, the nervous system has to adapt all of its parameters to function properly in this new for him situation/task. Practice is key before jumping in the big job.

I'm fasting which is one reason I fatigued easily. I still get my practice in. I'm doing it over a span of days so it's more enjoyable and I can take my time with doing one thing at a time.

 

[treesmith]

I'm a bit surprised how taboo the topic of cutting trees is. You would think if anywhere you can get advise on a tree forum.

Easy, Tiger. No one here is trying to talk down to you. But most here have either witnessed first-hand an injury, or knows someone who has. I went up to rescue a climber in 1988 who cut his hand badly when his chainsaw kicked back. He panicked and was going berserk at the blood. And I once took part in a mission trip to build a church. One of the other volunteers found out I did tree work and started asking questions. I answered freely and frankly, not realizing he had plans to go home and give it a whirl. A few weeks after he returned home, he was cutting a large limb/leader out while lanyard-ed to it. It ripped/peeled, and nearly killed him. It crushed him with enough pressure to damage internal organs. He lived, but barely. Since then, I’m more restrained in talking about tree work.

We just don’t want to see (or hear of) you getting hurt.