Cutting heavy horizontal limbs

Tucker943 said:
Does anyone else's saw tether even get chomped up by the chain? Or was that just me?
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No, it wasn't just you. It happened many times to me, but not really often though.
Mainly, it's when I want to reach a cut under me. The bar is downward, so is the tether and they meet time to time with the movement. The bungee one helps for that matter, because there is less slack in it.

I use the bungee for the 200T. But for the heavy saws like ms440 or 066, I use one of my home made rigging slings, 3 strands PP, 14 mm diameter. There is no break-away but it has a better handling to let go and to take back the saw.
 
How you guys been havent said hello in a while respond to first thread if your in a really critical situation and you want limb to land flat you can cheat and use spider-legs.
 
Just cut mine last week. Only a surface snag so I threw some duct tape over it. Good as new ;)

Teufleberger has a great idea for theirs, it has a snap where you can remove it with only a few inches of it remaining on the saws retaining ring. Great for once you make landfall and need to start cutting before you can start removing gear.
 
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/0GQJkRcsoCo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The first cut on this short vid shows a cut from the bucket on a big heavy silver maple lead... not really horizontal, but very hollow. you wouldn't want to lanyard in below that cut, especially if you used a face cut... couldn't twell it was hollow.. probably would have pinched the bar on the undercut..

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/TIz5Orr0QaI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
this one has the first cut showing that double plunge, notchless cut.. I was trying to get the piece to land flat.. had some rotation.. fun little experiment in a low risk stage.
 
Jack said:
View attachment 52790
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Yep^^^

And as Jomo states, I like to be doubled in -rather than a lanyard on the branch. And if there is no where to tie in above, then I'll stand on the branch to be cut, with my lanyard beneath me in a "jump rope," configuration. This way I can stand -bringing tension against me and my lanyard, so when I go for a ride, I have my legs to cushion the shock as I still manage to retain the tension of my safety underneath me.
 
I use a breakaway lanyard on my climbing saw. The main reason I use it is for when I'm negative rigging tops or trunks and can't let it run. I like to be able to drop my saw and brace myself for the upcoming ride. I have only had one saw hang up and fall to the ground. It was an employers MS250. I was dropping about a 10' piece of oak trunk when it hung up. It wasn't hung very bad and if I would have had a breakaway lanyard it probably would have just bent the bar. Worst case scenario the lanyard would have broken away and resulted in the same outcome....Provided my employer with a saw used for parts.
 
I don't use a saw lanyard, but if I did, it would have a weak link somewhere that would break with enough force yet still be strong enough to hold the saw.
 
mastermind7864 said:
Butch what break away would you recommend?
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Buckingham makes a good bungee breakaway. On my non-breakaway, I use a key biner to attach to my saddle.

IIRC, Butch is in the camp of attaching for moving, unclipping/ detaching for cutting.

Some people sew their own webbing lanyards.

I like to be able to lower or drop the saw in specific situations.

I tape open my harnesses boat snap so I can set the ring on the hook with one hand still on the top-handle, and can likewise life it off by grabbing the top-handle.
 
Me like Butch...never use saw leash.... just a few times on big horizontals out over slate roofing or skylights I secured saw to the limb below my safety...not a breakaway, the idea is to avoid making Kerfs that will catch the saw, not rocket science
 
jacolantern said:
Yes that's what I was taught!!
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same here cept I almost always use the 660 with new(er) bar and chain and study the piece for abnormalities in the wood, bark and circumference
and at the final few inches of its anticipated sever I will only drive the tip back and forth and knock on wood have never had saw snatch.
 
Funny you guys should be talking about this stuff. I've got an inbred lanyard which is just a piece of climbing rope with a snap on one end, and a biner on the other. I cut half way through it on accident, and after being super ticked with myself, decided I liked it better that way for the very same reason Butch said. :lol:
 
inbredJed said:
Funny you guys should be talking about this stuff. I've got an inbred lanyard which is just a piece of climbing rope with a snap on one end, and a biner on the other. I cut half way through it on accident, and after being super ticked with myself, decided I liked it better that way for the very same reason Butch said. :lol:
Click to expand...

Half of a 1/2", 5400+ pound rope. Buy a breakaway or demand one based on safety, or use a key biner, they are like $2, maybe $3.


I had my ms 361/ 20" pop off my open saw hook and fall onto my buckingham breakaway. I felt it a bit, and it deployed a bit.
 
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