Bounce! Why on earth...

Only reason I ask is because of the surface finish after cutting might be rough and make driving them difficult. But water jet would be cool.
 
Nice chunck of metal:love: . What thickness it has?
You can make the usual 0-1" (or more like 1/8-1") and a heavy lifter 7/8-2" (same length/slope) to avoid the first stacking. But I have no clue about the convenient slope in a different material than plastic.
 
Only reason I ask is because of the surface finish after cutting might be rough and make driving them difficult. But water jet would be cool.
Interesting...my reason for going to metal is to make anti-pop-out spikes on them. Friends on another forum said to prevent pop-out, sprinkle dirt on them. I suspect that will make them harder to drive as well as more resistant to pop out. I wonder if single thicker/steeper wedges would be more resistant to pop out than stacked. I suspect yes, especially if both sides have one way "shark skin" surface. It would be interesting to compare surfaces between water jet, saw cut longitudinally, and saw cut crosswise to the driven direction.

I may end up going steel. I was thinking last night and put a couple things together...the problem with old long steel wedges according to @gf beranek 's book is hitting them with the saw, and they may pass clear thru a smaller tree. Putting that together with @stig 's gutting of the hinge (I am forcing hard side leaners over) and my idea of open/block face for more hinge time...well, just let the steel wedge pass thru! If I have to cut any more, it will be on the fat hinge side, and theoretically not adjacent to the wedge.
 
Nice chunck of metal:love: . What thickness it has?
You can make the usual 0-1" (or more like 1/8-1") and a heavy lifter 7/8-2" (same length/slope) to avoid the first stacking. But I have no clue about the convenient slope in a different material than plastic.
Great minds think alike on the secondary thicker wedge....that would keep the wedge further from the saw action area too.

It is 3" thick, around 75mm.
 
I should note that the steel (and alum) would be for special occasions where serious force is needed. Rest for the time I think I will be using hard heads once I finish trashing my regular plastic ones.
 
This is an old thread and since I do have a collection of plastic wedges .Inexpensive from Baileys .Unlike many I don't try to drive them with an axe .I use a 52 ounce dead blow hammer .I can really screw them up with an axe .
 
Interesting...my reason for going to metal is to make anti-pop-out spikes on them. Friends on another forum said to prevent pop-out, sprinkle dirt on them. I suspect that will make them harder to drive as well as more resistant to pop out. I wonder if single thicker/steeper wedges would be more resistant to pop out than stacked. I suspect yes, especially if both sides have one way "shark skin" surface. It would be interesting to compare surfaces between water jet, saw cut longitudinally, and saw cut crosswise to the driven direction.
It sounds like good experiment comparing surface finishes.
 
The intent was to prevent wedges popping back out. Worked well this morning forcing a side leaner over to the left. Well, closer to 180° with messed up limb weight too. The thicker ones in place of stacking are a winner. I nicked one and didn’t hurt the chain…sliced my thumb with the wedge though.

@SeanKroll Now that I know my wedges work I’m going to start using to winch to pull and swing things, at least in the summer! It was pretty miserable fun this morning. The axe tears the wedges up pretty bad but the sledge doesn’t as much.

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