flushcut
TreeHouser
1 inch. Maybe go 1 1/8” and sand it down to an inch. How are you cutting it? Bandsaw?
1 inch. Maybe go 1 1/8” and sand it down to an inch. How are you cutting it? Bandsaw?
Interesting...my reason for going to metal is to make anti-pop-out spikes on them. Friends on another forum said to prevent pop-out, sprinkle dirt on them. I suspect that will make them harder to drive as well as more resistant to pop out. I wonder if single thicker/steeper wedges would be more resistant to pop out than stacked. I suspect yes, especially if both sides have one way "shark skin" surface. It would be interesting to compare surfaces between water jet, saw cut longitudinally, and saw cut crosswise to the driven direction.Only reason I ask is because of the surface finish after cutting might be rough and make driving them difficult. But water jet would be cool.
Great minds think alike on the secondary thicker wedge....that would keep the wedge further from the saw action area too.Nice chunck of metal . What thickness it has?
You can make the usual 0-1" (or more like 1/8-1") and a heavy lifter 7/8-2" (same length/slope) to avoid the first stacking. But I have no clue about the convenient slope in a different material than plastic.
It sounds like good experiment comparing surface finishes.Interesting...my reason for going to metal is to make anti-pop-out spikes on them. Friends on another forum said to prevent pop-out, sprinkle dirt on them. I suspect that will make them harder to drive as well as more resistant to pop out. I wonder if single thicker/steeper wedges would be more resistant to pop out than stacked. I suspect yes, especially if both sides have one way "shark skin" surface. It would be interesting to compare surfaces between water jet, saw cut longitudinally, and saw cut crosswise to the driven direction.