Bounce! Why on earth...

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Yeah, my axes will drive a wedge once in a while and will mostly cut roots close to a sidewalk or building. The old school guys would probably cringe at the thought of an axe striking dirt. I hardly ever work more than a 30 second walk from our truck so we don't have to rely on whatever tools we can carry in one trip. And we certainly don't have any power saw restrictions at least not yet. Is this because of fire danger?
 
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  • #27
No, it's the law that within any federally mandated wilderness area no internal combustion engines may be used. Electric motors, too. And no wheeled conveance, like a mountain bike. I hear that even a wheeled game carrier is illegal, though I don't know that for a fact. Illegal to land a helo or other aircraft, or fly lower than 500 feet over. The objective is to preserve wilderness values.

In emergency situations exceptions can be made, but at a minimum by signature of the Forest Supervisor with jurisdictional authority...that's a pretty high muckity muck. Mostly they won't do it without concurence from their boss, a Regional Forester. Congress hates to see administrative violations of the Wilderness Act.

Congressionally designated Wilderness Areas, that's what I'm talking about, not just any ol' National Forest land.
 
I understand now Burnham. I kind of figured they would let you guys do whatever was needed to maintain your stuff. Wrong again. I think you are allowed 3 per lifetime, so I have one to go.
 
stehansen said:
The old school guys would probably cringe at the thought of an axe striking dirt.
Click to expand...

Another thing with a cruiser ax is that it's not sharp like a falling ax. I keep an "edge" on mine only in the academic sense. It's enough to knock off bark, and bury in a tree to hold it if need be, but I don't want to be stumbling around in the woods with a finely honed edge. It's for kocking around and driving wedges, not making chips.
 
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  • #30
Oh, everyone needs a "dirt" axe Steve. That's a specialized tool, just as legitimate as any other.

What's wrongheaded is not differenciating betwen that axe and the other couple you need to have that are for other tasks.
8)
 
Yeah the estwing does have a tiny little hammer head. The maul drives wedges and splits every now and then, the axe is for chopping roots and knocking dirt off the log before I cut.
Ya'll roll a little different on the west coast though.
 
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  • #32
I expect it actually is more a back woods faller vs. an urban/suburban tree cutter difference, Jonny. No common logger sets a pulling line while most arbos don't do precision felling with wedges. Different conditions, different solutions.

West coast arbos may be more influenced by local logging practice than you and the rest over thataway, but I think west coast arbos still do things more in common with your techniques than with what I do felling.
 
Egads, how the heck did I miss this thread? Didn't see it till just now. Actually I just brought on one fallers axe, but it's only 2 1/4 lbs. I'm still waiting to receive the 6 lb ones. They'll be here soon though I hope. In the past we never carried them because they aren't "climbing equipment," which we have always tried to specialize in. But wtf, if folks need 'em, I say why not sell 'em?
 
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  • #38
6 lbs.? Really? That's getting to be a bit too heavy, Sean...heck, you can buy splitting mauls that weigh 6 lbs. You need to be able to accelerate the head speed up there right fast, and also pack it through the brush all day.

5 lbs. I tell you, with a 24 to 26 inch symetrical handle!
 
I use an axe,a five pounder to split with . The steel wedges get driven with a sledge.

I don't own any of the plastic wedges .About a dozen steel splitters,auctions and garage sales ,cheap .

Somewhere in all my junk I have a couple of long skinny aluminum wedges .I assume they are falling wedges but I've never used them . If I've needed to wedge a tree I always used the steel splitters ,they've worked pretty well .
 
Al,
I had a small wedge and it was sold to me as magnesium. Probably harder than aluminum? I finally bought some plastic falling wedges although I don't think I ever hit a steel one using it to fall. Makes it a little easier not having to worry about hitting the wedge. You can give more attention to the job of falling.
 
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  • #48
In complicated felling situations, there have been a couple of times when I purposely sacrificed a plastic wedge to my saw to accomplish the task.

Magnesium wedges are harder than aluminum, can take the pounding of really hard driving like aluminum cannot...and still be soft enough to not destroy a chain. I keep two of these in my kit.

I have one antique steel felling wedge, very thin and long. On rare occasions I have needed it to open a kerf when I screwed up. It's a specialty tool, but then I'm a prima donna specialist :D.

Edit: Not saying it's rare that I screw up, but rather that it's rare that I screw up bad enough to need the steel razor wedge :D.
 
I think I'm gonna take Burn's advice here and not do the 6 lb axe. I'll find a 5 lb somewhere. Stumper is right: there just isn't any substitute for the right tool.
 
I was searching around before posting about wanting to make aluminum wedges…it sounds like magnesium would be better, but I don’t have any and I have aluminum…any input? Blocks I have are 9” long. 1” thick looks pretty good, 1.5” a little steep.

Thanks

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