Bixler Treework Climbing & Cutting

Thanks Tucker, I do the best with what I have in the given situation. I knew I had two more trees to climb and was focused on getting the job done in the quickest fashion possible. It was faster to slice and dice then rig or self lower, and you can see in the first clip the rotten base, compromised from being cut away from the power lines in the past.

The guy on the ground happens to be a climber and expert faller (skidder operator), the plan was to skid the logs past that oak tree, but he didn't feel comfortable skidding logs by it due to the large cavity at the base. He thought the tree might just fall over. We were looking at other trees to tie into or lower from and that would have been great, but again, much quicker to climb and chunk when given a drop zone in that scenario.

Now I see.
 
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  • #278
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  • #279
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When you post a video fullscreen, 1/3 of it gets chopped off. How many times do I need to say this?

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That illustrates what IMO is the problem with the Murphy way of cutting down leaners.
People make the top strap too thick, then end up having to futz around cutting more wood away on a stick that is breaking.
Far better to just saw down from the top till it starts binding the saw, then cut from below.
That also save having to bore cut in an awkward position, since people invaiably decide to make the cut head high, instead of going a little lower and safer.
 
Alternately, cut down from the top, and when it starts to close, start reaming the cut. You can have a heavy saw with a long bar, and simply pull back and forth, without lifting it, to let the top-bind close at the top of the log, and keep cutting out the bottom. You can be in a "down and out" stance, already leaning way from the the tree as it is about to release, rather than an "up and in" stance.
 
If you want a hung-up tree to drop vertically, to free up, a clean break is good, if you are dealing with a tree where you want it to slab out, then leaving that top strap does give a situational benefit.
 
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  • #287
The slower the separation the better.

For me, most cutting seems to go by feel.

20" bar on a MS362. The trees were hung up on a steep hill, quite an uphill hike. Minimal gear was nice.

Stig, I understand what your saying, tons of ways to trip hung trees, and some better than others. It was nice to get some cuts in on the Madrone as it's not everyday I get to play around with the species.
 
The slower the separation the better.

Do you mean this in regards to wanting a tree to 'slab'?

And by 'slabbing' we're talking about splitting/barberchairing? Or am I missing something?

I pretty much do like Stig mentioned and if I wanted to control it even more I'd put a face in the topside so I could fold the tree down slower or with more control if I was worried about it.

But every situation is different and those suckers looked hung up bad with all sorts of different binds coming into play. How'd the customer feel about his screw-ups? That was actually him talking in/taking the vid?
 
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  • #289
Squish, I figured slabbing was more like 'peeling'… slower of a separation in peeling… sort of like rip cuts.

The client took everything pretty well. He filmed with my phone, and did a great job. He's actually a professional narrator or what ever it's called, at least he's done some in the recent past. Cool!
 
:big-not-worthy::big-not-worthy::big-not-worthy:
don't know how I missed this thread but loved all the vids
If your new to the house you might want to go threw this one!
You da man bixler!!
 
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  • #292
:big-not-worthy::big-not-worthy::big-not-worthy:
don't know how I missed this thread but loved all the vids
If your new to the house you might want to go threw this one!
You da man bixler!!

Thanks guys, I did put some videos in this thread that are only available through this thread (private/unlisted).:thumbup:
 
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  • #298
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