Beginner Tree Climbing Tips

I use a simple prussic on a lanyard. Older lines that have been in the sun, salt, bird poop. Are pretty scary for me to trust. You may consider bringing up a climb line on your saddle in the rare case the line you r on fails and you have to come down from the point your lanyard stops you. . Make sure you wear gloves as repelling down rope gets real hot on the hands.
I do worry about that (halyards possibly weakened by exposure to the elements - even though they're designed to be exposed, they're also spec'd to haul up sails, not people). Even though the halyards run internally in the mast, the ends are always exposed. I have a length of new 7/16" line which I'll attach to a halyard and haul up to actually climb on (ascenders damage rope - don't want to damage the halyard), but I do have to give more thought to possible halyard failure - I can possibly rig one of the other halyards as a backup. Thanks for the thought.
 
In all the years I got hauled up and down our masts, I never thought the halyard would actually fail, more likely the attachment point of the pulley. All our halyards were external, 1/2" double braid dacron, we replaced them maybe once every 5-8 years...and that included many, many miles of ocean sailing, with many more pounds of pressure on them than I could ever exert being pulled up! Our halyards were constantly exposed to the elements for years on end. That's where I learned to do the 'pick test', pick the strands with your fingernail and if some fibres break, time to take action!

Of all the things that ever broke...main headstay, fore staysail and jib pulley, it was always hardware, usually a fatigue issue after a few thousand miles.

Kind of like tree climbing, I would say its very, very rare for a rope to break, more likely to be the tie in point.
 
Damn hardware and corrosion! Terrible accident here a couple years ago when the whole wing or whatever you call it on an electrical tower, broke away. Three guys rode it down. :( Sent a big tremor through the whole industry.
 
. . OK. So I'm asking this question in the beginners thread. Because its a beginners question.

I've been having a real challenge with getting my throw bag on, only the limb or crotch that I want to use. Often there is some small limb 1-4' above my target that the bag goes over and I can't get it off of it. So I either use it or try again which often requires several more shots and it is still on the same small limb. Above where I want it. . This is in cottonwood trees. Mostly single stem real limby suckers.

Actually I have 2 questions.
1, is there a more accurate means of shooting a line up in a tree??

2, Are there any guide lines for how big a limb will hold a climber.

When I end up going up and my line is on one of these I don't trust them and I end up having my climbing line just as a safety and not as my primary support. I rely on my spurs and flip line for that which is a problem when I'm in a larger tree. Say 36" stump diameter and I need to go above large limbs on the back side of the tree.
 
As a rule, with a cotton wood or poplar, I won't trust any limb smaller than 3-4 inches dia. until I have worked my way up into the canopy. Then I can inspect my progressive tie in's more closely in route.
Other species, good rule is no smaller than wrist.
I have had smaller limbs hold me, but not on purpose during ascent.
 
I use a Big Shot with practice it is very accurate, make sure to bounce test your tie in point if your still not sure have your groundie do it with you
 
Start low and slow. Getting familar setting climbing lines in hardwoods takes a little practice. A small diameter TIP can support a lot of weight especially when in a crotch and limb is diagonal upwards.
Before leaving the ground always shock load your climbing system onto theTIP with your body weight and listen without hearing protection for any warning cracks.
 
I am also good at having the bag hit the branch (and bounce off) that I want to go over. Maybe I should start "aiming" to hit the branch.
 
When possible if not already stated I would go around the trunk with your climbing line. In this case if your limb fails there is a branch below your tip that will catch you. This is not ideal for going up with a knee ascender or rope walker set up. When I doubt on weak species I use this method. On stronger species such as Live Oak a 6-8" limb that appears healthy I may go with it. The bigger the better obviously or shoot around 2 when possible. It takes practice and using same throw line helps! Different species obviously require different weights such as thick bark species require heavier weights. Always test load as stated. Hope this helps.
Mark
 
I've had lots of negative comments on the climbing on my spurs and flip line alone. But on smaller cottonwood and poplar I bring my climbing line up with me on my saddle. When I'm done Limbing I wrap around the tree with it. Making sure Imabove at least 2 of the larger limbs that I cut off leaving several inch long stobs. Then tie in and repell down. If the limbs are big enough that I think they will hold me I'll shoot a bag over them pull the climbing line over, tie in and go up. .

Lots of guys condemn doing it that way , but I haven't found a safe alternative
 
well....

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So, no one uses a Spud Gun or a bow set up for arrowing fish??

Nick made this for me. He called it an APTA, Air Powered Tree Access. It's flippin' awesome! Way more accurate than a Bigshot and more powerful, too.

David

 
I've had lots of negative comments on the climbing on my spurs and flip line alone. But on smaller cottonwood and poplar I bring my climbing line up with me on my saddle. When I'm done Limbing I wrap around the tree with it. Making sure Imabove at least 2 of the larger limbs that I cut off leaving several inch long stobs. Then tie in and repell down. If the limbs are big enough that I think they will hold me I'll shoot a bag over them pull the climbing line over, tie in and go up. .

Lots of guys condemn doing it that way , but I haven't found a safe alternative

Nor will you. And I'll wager that the "negative comments" are from folks whose trees grow in fairly sensitive areas, unlike our Southern Alaskan and Puget Sound climates, where it pisses down rain nine tenths of the year. Try killing or even hindering any species of (non-introduced) pig up here, by spurring it to death.... I dare ya. It won't happen.
 
CL, IIRC, Stephen/ CursedVoyce, is not nearly your size. I wouldn't tie into a 3-4" cottonwood branch. Up against the trunk and around it, with an apparently strong crotch, after bounce testing it, likely.

I'll use little dead branch stubs that might be pencil think to route my line for a trunk cinch, rather than a base tie.

Often bounce testing is also settling your rope down to a solid TIP via small branches breaking.



The stick trick does wonders for repositioning your rope. I frequently will have my rope coming down from the tree, clove hitch it to the top of an 8' pole or branch, then bringing the rest of the 'tail' down the 'stick' held by my hand. I now have a 10' long 'arm' to throw a loop, spiral, or wave in the line. Each has its own purpose. I can elaborate if you like.
 
Thanks for pointing that out as I should have as well Sean

I am 160 lbs before gear. Also a consideration.
Choose a bigger branch for your weight and test it.
 
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