Why shouldn't I buy this truck?

  • Thread starter Thread starter SkwerI
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Third try this morning. Took the intake manifold completely loose again, along with the alternator and coolant crossover. I wanted to check that there were no pinched wires under the manifold. There wasn't, but the vacuum line came off the back of the intake again. I found another piece of vacuum hose the same diameter and slightly longer, and in better condition. Got everything back together again and it starts and idles great. As soon as I try to put a load on it, it bogs and dies. Then the knock starts on the passenger side. I'm guessing I had piston to valve contact when the chain came loose. Surprisingly the only code I'm getting is P1295. I'll recheck the TPS and injectors but the engine has much bigger problems I'm afraid.

No diesel beavers but there was definitely a nest under the brake master cylinder at one time. Seller cleaned it up but I blew a bit of pine needles and other crap out of there.

I had to get my shoulder all the way wedged in between the intake manifold and the firewall to reach back behind the engine and attach that stupid vacuum line by feel. I feel like a gymnast! Both these pics were this morning. If I need heads or a shortblock then it's going to the mechanic. I think I'm done.

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I was mistaken, the code was P2195. O2 sensor in exhaust before the cat. Combine that with the knock and lack of power, I'm guessing I busted up some valves. Surprisingly I can buy a compression gauge on Amazon for less than $20 and it will be here tomorrow. If it's just the heads then I can have them fixed at a local machine shop. If it's in the block then I guess I will shop for a used motor.
 
"just the heads". You make that sound so simple. It would make my eyes cross to think I had to replace heads. Hope that's all it is.
 
Actually removing the heads would require me redoing everything I've done in the past week plus some. But the advantage is that it goes a lot faster the second or third time because you already know where all the bolts are, and what size wrench to grab.
And you have not sheared any off yet. SO you know they'll come loose :/:
 
couldn't you look inside the cylinders without taking out the heads? Touching or knocking should leave a mark in the one concerned.
 
Progress has been made. Spoke with my mechanic this morning and he insisted I had a vacuum leak (passenger O2 sensor out of range). Google says 4 things can cause that code, and while inspecting the O2 sensor I saw the passenger side exhaust manifold was cracked and broken in at least 2 places. New manifolds and gaskets are ordered along with a new O2 sensor. Not 100% sure that will fix my issue, but it's getting fixed. Also have a compression tester ordered which will be here today and a vacuum tester which will be here tomorrow.

Called my mechanic, he said to unplug the O2 sensor and it should run better if that's the issue. I did and it didn't. He's 2-3 weeks out so now I'm just throwing money and parts at it trying to fix it. Just ordered new injectors on top of the exhaust manifolds. Over $700 today.
 
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Ford started using wiring several years back that had soy (I think it was) in the insulation. Rat/mice/etc would chew it to pieces. They chewed the headlight wires all the way through on my 2015 F250. 😡
 
Fiber optic cables also were tasty to mice. Replaced mine twice. Who would have thought that there would be mice in the basement where you run fiber optic cables?
 
Still not running, only code is P2195. Google says:
What Is the Cause of Code P2195?
  • Frayed oxygen sensor circuit wiring/connectors
  • Faulty bank 1 heated oxygen sensor 1
  • Malfunctioning fuel injector
  • Vacuum leaks
  • Fuel pressure too low
  • Debris in Mass Airflow Sensor
  • Exhaust leak
Seller installed new fuel pump and associated wiring. Was done at a Lincoln dealership so I assume it was done correctly. My mechanic said to unplug the oxygen sensor and it should run better, but it didn't. My limited knowledge says there's no major vacuum leaks (system holds vacuum 5 minutes after shutting off engine). The right side exhaust manifold is cracked, have new one here (showed up 5 minutes ago). I ordered all new fuel injectors and they will be here Saturday, along with the new oxygen sensor. I inspected the wiring and cleaned the MAF sensor.

Assuming none of that works, my mechanic agreed to stop by my house on Monday (his day off) to help me diagnose the issue. I can swap parts but I'm no mechanic. I'm just a decent parts changer.

But since I couldn't address the engine today, I tackled other items. I swapped in the new rear leaf springs which raised the rear end about 1.5" and I now have almost 4" clearance for the overloader springs. I also got the brackets to mount my toolbox so I did that as well. Tomorrow I'll install the new trailer brake controller (plug and play) and replace the trailer wiring plug. Need to find the break causing my running lights not to work.
 
Fuel pressure might be a regulator as well. Had that happen on a truck once. Baffled my brain. Proper mechanic found it with pressure testing.
If I knew how to check that, I would. I did buy a vacuum/pressure tester but it says it's for carb setups (30 lbs max) and the instructions appear to have been written about 50 years ago. Also the previous owner had issues and had the dealership replace the fuel pump, wiring and fuel filter. I have to assume they tested and diagnosed the issue and if the fuel pump or regulator was a problem then they addressed it.
 
Right now I'm into it for just over $14K including the exhaust manifolds I just got today and the fuel injectors coming Saturday. I've also done many repairs/upgrades that virtually no used truck would have, such as new shocks, new tarp, new leaf springs, new trailer brake controller, new fluids, etc. There's very little out there under $20K right now and my truck will be in better shape than most once it's running.
 
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