Why shouldn't I buy this truck?

  • Thread starter Thread starter SkwerI
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  • #51
One last update for the day. My hitch adapter came in a few minutes ago. I spent $50 to accomplish 3 things. I needed to get the hitch high enough for my trailer so I can unload the loader and I also wanted to be able to dump the truck without having to remove the hitch insert. The third, most expensive item was not having to redesign my trailer since my truck would have hit the rack holding the bucket on sharp turns. It's rated for 7500 lbs so plenty strong for my 3000 lb trailer and 3100 lb loader. It extends the hitch 8" and raises it 2".

Amazon- Curt 45797 Trailer Hitch Adapter, 2-Inch Receiver, 2-in Drop or Rise, 7,500 lbs

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  • #52
Today I got my hydraulic cylinder rebuilt and changed the gear lube in the rear axle. After I got the cylinder installed I made one more modification to the bed so that I can raise the bed to the end of travel and not hit the hitch. Obviously I won't need to raise it that far unless I have mulch stuck in the front corners of the bed but I don't want to have any 'accidents' and bend something because somebody held a button too long. first pic is all the way up, second is about how high I actually need in order to dump.
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  • #55
Actually I believe it's a combination of two issues. The first is the cam phasers, which I knew about when I bought the truck. A common issue with 3v Triton motors. They use a variable cam timing system and the phasers are the variable sprockets on the cams that the timing chains ride on. Typically when they go bad the truck will run poorly but they give you plenty of notice.

After the phasers started acting up on me today I believe a second issue also occurred. Rust and debris in the gas tank plugging up the fuel filter causing loss of power. The previous owner had the truck 6 years and only put 600 milers on it. when I picked it up last Wednesday I filled the gas tank, so it's had a few days to work all that rust loose. Luckily I already bought a fuel filter, but may need to order a couple more.

I called my best mechanic and he's 10 days out before he can get me in for the cam phasers and timing chains. Hopefully I can get it going enough for short trips until then.
 
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  • #58
Today I confirmed right side phaser is shot. Changed fuel filter but still no power. Codes said #4 cylinder was missing (of course the one all the way in the back). Swapped #1 and #4 plugs and coils, everything looked perfect but no change. My mechanic is 2 weeks out and said $2500 for timing chains and phasers, etc. I can get all Motorcraft parts for $600. Add in some upgrades like a new water pump, oil pump, gaskets, etc. and I'm at $900. Found a topside creeper stand for $63 at Home Depot so I can work over the engine with both hands. TopSide Top Side Jr. Creeper-TRX3-120 - The Home Depot - https://www.homedepot.com/p/TopSide-Top-Side-Jr-Creeper-TRX3-120/206949376?
I can do the job, I had my Mustang 4.6 apart several times while modifying it and eventually swapping motors, but I could reach everything while standing on the ground. This truck has the motor wedged up under the firewall. With the creeper stand I think I can do it myself. I guess we will find out next week when the parts start arriving.
 
Always a risk buying used stuff. Hope it works out for you. Now you have an answer to the question in your thread title.
 
Speaking of. Just got my whole front end all together on my 4x4 and it decided to quit on my way home tonight. No fuel being delivered. Sooooooo. Been there, done that. Flat bed to the rescue.
 
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  • #62
I bought a cheap version of a topside creeper to make it easier for me to work on the engine. It arrived today but was way too short to reach over the engine bay. I had to quickly order the more expensive version which hopefully gets here before I get too far into the project. Here's a pic of the jr. version and links to both.

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Amazon- topside jr creeper
Amazon- Topside creeper full size
 
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  • #66
It's not just height, it's reaching something 48" high and 48" away from where you can stand. And needing both hands to work on it.
 
Yeah, this is so I can bend over the smog crap and reach far enough down to the header to manifold bolts. Fabbing up his exhaust system. We probably will have pulled that bugger out and put back in after marking and cutting, welding and bending, fitting the cat etc, about 5x.
 
If this tree thing doesn't work out there's always mechanic-ing for you guys, you tread where lots of folks fear to :drink:
 
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  • #69
cory said:
If this tree thing doesn't work out there's always mechanic-ing for you guys, you tread where lots of folks fear to :drink:
Click to expand...
Not by choice! When I was younger I was forced to fix my own chit because I was too poor to pay someone to do it. I learned through figuring it out because there was nobody to rescue me. Now I'm old and weak and still poor, and my mechanic is 2 weeks out. He would basically charge me 15 hrs labor at $100 per hour. If I can do it in 30 hours then I save myself $50 per hour for time I would otherwise be sitting idle. And I can address other maintenance issues along the way while I go through the truck.
 
I'm in the same boat. Always wrenched on my own till my learning curve and tools ran out.
Where I live, you are hard pressed to even have a good mechanic let alone when you find one, you may not see your vehicle or equip for weeks or months. We are just remote compared to many places. So 1-2 hours of getting the vehicle to some one that may be able to fix it proper and turn it around with in a week is the best one can do. Add towing etc. Day lost to go get it when done.
Last couple of local guys I used cost me thousands on top of the repairs because they fugged it up. Long turn around times out side of local also cost thousands in rentals. Best to just get the tools and wrench it. Now, if it comes to rebuilding a motor or tranny, send that out. I have the tools to remove and replace. Let them do the intricate machining type work. And give me a warranty
 
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  • #72
The worst part will be getting all the valve lifters and followers tucked back under the cams. I remember being able to tap them into place using a hammer and old prydriver on my Mustang but don't immediately remember the exact process. I'm hoping it comes back to me once I see the cams with the valve covers removed. The rest of it is just time consuming removal and replacement of all the crap in your way to get to the timing chains.
 
yup. I have a 351 awaiting my attention. Had good compression though and the top end had a freshening up a few years before I got it. I put it in the '80 F350 and it went fine for a while, then nope. Pulling the distributor told the tale. missing teeth on the unit and down at the cam gear. Betting they put the wrong gear on the distributor. two different types. Eventually, that engine will get extracted and fixed. pull heads, lifters, cam and replaced. A reserve engine for the 84 F350. I might even put a simple fuel injection set up on it. Has a 460 in it now, but is going to eventually need replacing. Then I might built that motor with direct injection like the newer trucks had. Not horribly priced. Oh the hobbys and things I can come up with staring at iron. :lol:
 
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