Wedges....

[top hopper]

3 to 4?
1 felling
1 forwarding on swinger
1-2 at the deck?

No chipping, just fell them, cut, haul logs and stack. Leave all brush, possibly cut flush to ground? Drag distance will vary, but roughly 1-200 yards?

Man, Daves CEO grapple would come in handy there!!

 

[sotc]

bet youll do much better than you think then. may not need to keep one at the deck all the time. usually better to drag logs behind you (reverse even if its slower speed, unless theres a way to pull a small trailer or attach logs to back with a cable) than try to weave through a forest with one in front, also you can pull more than you can lift

 

[top hopper]

For sure will be pulling. i figured possibly 2 at the deck just to get them cut to exact lengths and to strip the logs of stubs and any brush still hanging on.

Idea is- 1 feller cutting like mad, Swinger pulling out trees with tops removed, but other wise uncut in length, (to maximize skidding), one guy at deck stripping remaining brush and stubs from logs, while other guy is cutting to length and stacking for pick up. On the swinger's return trip into the woods grab a load of cut brush and bring back into woods, that way its hauling both ways, and we dont spend time in the woods cutting off all the brush, and I dont have to worry about other people in the woods while I fell.

 

[sotc]

sounds like a good plan you have a logtape or 3 right?

 

[top hopper]

Not yet. Im working up a list of things I'll need.

Wedges, axe, log tapes, paint, felling bar, peavy bar, and a push button tally counter.

Im sure I'll think of more.

 

[SkwerI]

Look at www.logrite.com for your peavey/ cant/ felling bar needs. Best damn tools on the market. They even market their cant hooks through Stihl (with an orange paint job). Small owner-operator business in CT with an excellent reputation worldwide.

Do I sound like a salesman yet?

 

[Reddog]

Yes, but they are great tools and good people.

 

[top hopper]

Look at www.logrite.com for your peavey/ cant/ felling bar needs. Best damn tools on the market. They even market their cant hooks through Stihl (with an orange paint job). Small owner-operator business in CT with an excellent reputation worldwide.

Do I sound like a salesman yet?

I appreciate that Brian.

Ok- now I have a question. I can see the difference between the cant hooks and the peavy bars, but what is the difference in application for each. The peavy has a straight point, while the cant has a hook on the end. Arent both used to roll logs about? Can some explain the applications for each and recommend which would be best?

 

[lumberjack]

Sounds like a fun job, need some help?

 

[MasterBlaster]

The point on the Peavy is meant for extending the reach for pushing. The Cant hook is more for turning the log.

I think I said that right.

And the cant hooks I've worked with were flat on the end - no "hook."

 

[SkwerI]

Peaveys were developed for busting up logjams when they used to float logs down the rivers to the mills. These days the only good use for the point is to stick it in your foot or to stick in the ground to keep the tool upright and visible when you aren't holding it. I prefer the cant. Although if you're going to be working in the woods then maybe the peavey might be less likely to get lost.

 

[Dave Shepard]

A cant hook is used for rolling cants, or basically what you have after you've slabbed a log and gotten it square. A peavey is more of a woods tool. I have a 60" cant hook, a 30" "Mill Special" cant hook, and a "Hookaroon", all custom made for me in Stihl orange. I also have a log scale in International 1/4" scale. The LogRites really are tops. You can order them from Bailey's when you get your Spencer tape.

What are you doing with the tops and slash? Are you just leaving it, or do you have to clean it up? I'd think two fellers, a swinger, and a guy on the header to buck would give you good production. If you're leaving the slash in the woods, I'd get it all off the tree there. In this type of situation, the feller limbs and "rings" the trunk of the tree where the header guy is to cut out the logs. This gets as much of the unused tree in the woods. You could also have one guy felling, and another limbing/ringing. Two guys on the header will get really bored, I would think. You've got a short skid, so the swinger could also work the header, as another scenario.

 

[top hopper]

I figured the cant would be better for rolling. Thats what it'll be then.

 

[Reddog]

In the woods I prefer a peavy. You can use it like a pry bar also. The point makes it easier to get under things.

 

[top hopper]

A cant hook is used for rolling cants, or basically what you have after you've slabbed a log and gotten it square. A peavey is more of a woods tool. I have a 60" cant hook, a 30" "Mill Special" cant hook, and a "Hookaroon", all custom made for me in Stihl orange. I also have a log scale in International 1/4" scale. The LogRites really are tops. You can order them from Bailey's when you get your Spencer tape.

What are you doing with the tops and slash? Are you just leaving it, or do you have to clean it up? I'd think two fellers, a swinger, and a guy on the header to buck would give you good production. If you're leaving the slash in the woods, I'd get it all off the tree there. In this type of situation, the feller limbs and "rings" the trunk of the tree where the header guy is to cut out the logs. This gets as much of the unused tree in the woods. You could also have one guy felling, and another limbing/ringing. Two guys on the header will get really bored, I would think. You've got a short skid, so the swinger could also work the header, as another scenario.

The tops and slash will be left, and gone over with a mulch mower thingy by the corporation (or so they say), we may end up having to haul and chip the tops, we will see.
Regarding whether 1 or 2 people are at the deck (header?) we will see, trial and error I guess. Id rather know Im the only person in the woods and I can fell indiscriminately without having to wonder where other people are at. Id only have to keep an eye out for the swinger loader. The plan may change as we move through it, but I think we could keep two people busy at the header provided the trees keep falling and the swinger keeps skidding. The bulk of the brush would be stripped in the woods, but I would prefer to keep the feller felling rather than processing.

 

[top hopper]

Sounds like a fun job, need some help?

If it were up to me Id say c'mon up. But alas, it is not. Sorry cuz!

 

[lumberjack]

Now that I think about it, I bet ya'll have more help than work until spring.

 

[squisher]

If there's room I'd go in a few days before and fell a bunch to get ahead of the skidder. You don't want to have to be waiting on him every cycle he makes and it could pose safety/communication issues if he's coming up and skidding to close to your falling. Sounds like fun.

Normally in logging, atleast how we always did it, the faller is way ahead and nowhere near the actual skidding.

 

[top hopper]

Good idea, but I want the loader fairly close as the stand is tight and the likelihood of getting a tree hung in another is good. The loader will easily pull it free. We are thinning, not clearcutting, so I probably cant just go dump the next tree in which the last one is hung up in.
Otherwise I wont be waiting, I'll just keep felling them one after another and if the loader keeps up great, if not, no biggie.

 

[Bermy]

I assume it is steel?
Would be hard on chains if you hit it.

Steel yes, split level cuts keep your chain out of the way...very useful for neutral lean trees, back leaners, or rolling out hungups, as long as they are smallish.

 

[squisher]

Good idea, but I want the loader fairly close as the stand is tight and the likelihood of getting a tree hung in another is good. The loader will easily pull it free. We are thinning, not clearcutting, so I probably cant just go dump the next tree in which the last one is hung up in.
Otherwise I wont be waiting, I'll just keep felling them one after another and if the loader keeps up great, if not, no biggie.

Well the trick would be to not be hanging up trees then.

 

[SkwerI]

John, have you started on this job yet?

I was over at Forestry Forum and stumbled across this thread with pictures of the LogRite factory. If anybody is interested, it's here:
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,31003.0.html
And here:
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,31006.0.html

 

[Burnham]

Just catching up, sorry to be so belated...I agree with Dave and Jer that the double taper 7d is a fine wedge for smaller trees, but for the size range diameters John has specified I fear it will be a bit too long for a good portion of the work. For trees 8 to 15 inches, the backcut will have to be nearly complete before there's space to get that wedge in without being driven into the chain. And for as tall a stand as he mentions, I'd want a wedge in early...those leggy trees can be difficult to get a good read of the lean sometimes.

I'd have to add a handfull of the little ones to my kit if I were doing that job, the narrow 5 inchers.

The one on the left in this picture.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15334&catID=301

 

[woodworkingboy]

Using larger wedges on smaller trees, that's how I was able to get some smaller wedges,

eventually I just reshaped them on the big bench grinder.
Starting off with smaller wedges would have been better :roll:

 

[Burnham]

Using larger wedges on smaller trees, that's how I was able to get some smaller wedges,

eventually I just reshaped them on the big bench grinder.
Starting off with smaller wedges would have been better :roll:

Funny, Jay.

Of course, we all know how to quarter cut those small diameter trees and minimize the conflict between wedge and chain, but it's far quicker/simpler to use the baby wedges.