Stacking three wedges

[Jed]

Works for me Mr. C. Very nice to see you in here. Relish the advice too.... I'd never thought of the "closer to the corners/more lift," point.

Darn old-timers know everything.

 

[Burnham]

Maybe...but we forget a lot of it, too .

 

[sotc]

Good deal, glad it's worth waiting for!

More lift Jed but harder beating

 

[Jed]

Got it.

Lol, B.

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

More strain on the hinge, too. A shallower face gives more distance from hinge to the rear of the tree, producing better leverage.

 

[stig]

Oh God, Sean, please don't go poking that bear again.
The depth of face as center of gravity shifter versus better leverage with a shallow face cut has been ridden around the arena a few times here.

 

[cory]

I must have missed that ride! So, just wondering, you agree with what he said? I do.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Wedges should always be used as a backup,

I don't really understand the concept of using wedges as a backup when pulling, because with many to most of the trees we pull, the back lean is so severe that when cutting and pulling to get them over to favour the lay, the back has opened up too much to hold a wedge, and you can't keep shoving a wedge in farther because that's often where you are cutting and the back keeps spreading more. Does it help to have a wedge or stacked ones just sitting in the back way loose? If a rope should snap when giving a lot of pull on a heavy tree with an insufficient hinge yet, and there is much of a gap above the wedge, I have always figured of the likelihood of the tree still sitting back hard over the wedge and you are going to lose it. I can see a wedge for back up on slight leaners, but those aren't the ones hard on your rigging line.

 

[Jed]

Oh God, Sean, please don't go poking that bear again.
The depth of face as center of gravity shifter versus better leverage with a shallow face cut has been ridden around the arena a few times here.

I'll have to agree with Stig, Sean, I mean... has anyone ever been able to exert so much force on a properly cut hinge that he actually wedged the tree over backwards on himself or even lost it over sideways??

 

[sotc]

If the back cut has opened that far the tree is moving and you're probably not pulling as hard anymore.

 

[sotc]

Oh God, Sean, please don't go poking that bear again.
The depth of face as center of gravity shifter versus better leverage with a shallow face cut has been ridden around the arena a few times here.

Giddeup!

Totally depends on the diameter, weight and lean....

 

[woodworkingboy]

That's true, Willie, the amount of pull does go through changes. With larger trees though, there is that point where it is opening up a lot in the back and not yet favouring the lay, and still tremendous pull is needed. When the pull goes lighter, it brings mental relief. I work with a guy that is a pulling fool with his turfier. I get to thinking no way and he is already setting up to pull. I get to worrying in retrospect when thinking about some of the trees that we have pulled.

 

[murphy4trees]

On real heavy backleaners (I've only done a handfull), it seems that the wedges and lines work well together to ratchet the tree towards the COG... I hit em with a big hammer 8-10 lbs.. seems like it makes a big difference to get the tree starter... I don't subscribe to the pull a little, cut a little system .. Set pull line(s) , pretension them, then create the hinge. Pull a little more then use the wedges if you need em. Hope to God you get all that right... roll camera!

 

[sotc]

. Pull a little more then use the wedges if you need em. Hope to God you get all that right... roll camera!

Yep, that's how we do it, cross yourself, knock on wood and shut your eyes, maybe it will go where we want it.

 

[squisher]

If the back cut has opened that far the tree is moving and you're probably not pulling as hard anymore.

Eggzactly.

 

[Jed]

If the back cut has opened that far the tree is moving and you're probably not pulling as hard anymore.

The only reason I brought all this old stuff up again is that I've often left a stob without a rope in it that was back-leaning, because I was too lazy to go down with the bucket, or whatever. That's when I get into stacking three wedges like an idiot. That's the reason I was asking you guys about shims. I'll go over to Work Pictures and ask Stig about his shims on his Golf Course trees.

 

[woodworkingboy]

When pulling with a Tirfor, the cut a little pull a little is pretty much the only option that you have, is what I figure. You can spring over smaller trees and ones with not much back lean. I wouldn't want to get very fine with a hinge on a heavy back leaner over a vacation home like we often run into, think it's better to let the pulling device dictate the need to cut more. We have had great success with the method, even if it might not be considered the ideal with you guys that like to yank over trees with one shot. It varies, but generally our method is to pull until the Tirfor gets hard to crank, then cut some more, work the tree steadily over to favouring the lay. I still don't see how a wedge helps that immediately loosens up, I must be missing something. The nice thing about a Tirfor is the steady calm pull by even increments, no banging away and creating shock, like with a wedge. Nice to see the leaves shaking a bit up on top when pulling and before doing any cutting. The tree is registering itself as a candidate.

 

[squisher]

The wedge helps in loosening up immediately too. Let's you know everything is going properly. What if any number of 'what ifs' occurs while that tirfor is pulling hard against the lean to that ancient vacation home? Your plan Jay is just that no anchor, line, or mechanical device will ever fail? And if it does, the back up plan is?

I prefer to pull and wedge in unison. I believe that gives the greatest success and has the least jeopardy to the hinge. Means you don't have to pull to hard or wedge to hard vs only doing one or the other.

 

[woodworkingboy]

You are right in that cautionary, Squish, there is no back up plan. I do encounter some worry sometimes, not too proud to admit it. If the line did snap, and something else prevented the tree setting back hard, that would indeed be worth something to me, or likely a lot given many circumstances. I'm going to re-evaluate the system, thanks.

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

I wedge and pull.

You could theoretically cut some wood wedges/ chocks/ shims for a big backleaner than comes off double wedges.

Jed, you can put a munter on a big biner on the pull line, and keep you spurs and lanyard active. Lower with one hand on the rope, work the flipline down with the other, and keep your spurs in position to dig in if the pull line somehow breaks under your weight. Your lanyard is your life-support.

 

[squisher]

You are right in that cautionary, Squish, there is no back up plan. I do encounter some worry sometimes, not too proud to admit it. If the line did snap, and something else prevented the tree setting back hard, that would indeed be worth something to me, or likely a lot given many circumstances. I'm going to re-evaluate the system, thanks.

I wasn't trying to sound like an ass Jay, although I know I easily can. Lol. As we all know you can make all the plans you want at times and there's still going to be a 'what if' factor involved. Part of the thrill of the work I suppose. I'm just a nutbar about wedges. Lol.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Not at all, Squish, this isn't the time of year when you are sounding like an ass. One thing too, i have wedges and those purdy hardhead juniors that I make myself. Kind of hate to scuff them up though.

 

[squisher]

That is a pretty wedge!

 

[Altissimus]

I took all the wedges out of my truck when I used it for snow plowing last winter.. Forgot to put them back in and so far this year only missed them a couple times... good pics and tips ... be a long time before I use them though... just goes to show how different this work can be depending on location, topography, size and species of trees, clients' needs, landscape and fixtures etc..

...mention this fact to your insurance agent when ....

 

[CurSedVoyce]

The only reason I brought all this old stuff up again is that I've often left a stob without a rope in it that was back-leaning, because I was too lazy to go down with the bucket, or whatever. That's when I get into stacking three wedges like an idiot. That's the reason I was asking you guys about shims. I'll go over to Work Pictures and ask Stig about his shims on his Golf Course trees.

Buy a nylon cutting board and cut a few the same size as your wedges. I did mine right on the table saw. Smelts a little, but works.