Let's fight about ropes vs wedges.

Hey, has anybody on here been crazy enough to implement Buckin Billy Ray's "Back Cut First," technique on the Resi-jobs? Works an absolute charm on the back-leaners, but certainly has it's pitfalls. I could tell you stories. :O
 
It's good for smaller trees, when there's not room to pound wedges in behind the backcut. cut back cut, set wedges, cut face and then pound it over.
 
only when bore cutting small stems aloft.... heavy front leaners... set the back cut first, tiny little notch second, because that's all there is room for, then release the strap....
 
I use to practice fancy cutting, and it’s good to know those things when you need it, but I’d have to say that I typically just blast a throw line through the canopy and base tie it. I yank on it with the skiddy before notching to brake whatever is weak. Then notch and pull it over. It’s quick and easy and they always lay where I want. If it’s real important or high risk I’ll isolate the line. That being said, just this past Friday I used a rope and wedges. Dead tree next to the house and the skiddy was in the shop. 3 guys on the rope and no spot to anchor a system. Everyone works within their own limitations I suppose.
 
We've got a couple wedges on the truck but use ropes 99% of the time when felling trees and spars, not sure why just the way I learned I guess.
 
The back cut first is disturbing in the habits of felling.
Bucking Billy Ray uses it on the heavy back leaners to avoid increasing the lean during the cut.
I'll wait a tad to lay the big ones like that. For now, I tried it on small diameters to get enough room to work. I found the hard way that it needs at least two skills : be able to cut a good notch/hinge first attempt (very few room to correct it, even if possible) and be able to set the wedge(s) just tight to hold the back lean but not more. If the wedge is beaten too hard, the tree will pinch the bar while cutting the notch or even start falling during the first notch's cut.
That's obvious for a pro faller, but I'm only an arborist:D
When that is covered, it's a funny way to cut a tree.

Oh ! an other point : be sure to have enough room in front of the wedge to get the needed lift. Otherwise you have to run to the truck to bring out the rope puller !
 
No, you'll have to tell the apprentice to get the ropepuller out of the truck:D

I use that trick ( The wedges first one, not the apprentice one) once in a while.
It has it's place in the toolbox for sure.
 
I use the back cut first trick alot on smaller back leaners, it's a great tool to have in the box. I haven't tried it on anything largish, because honestly if it's got that much weight to stand back up from a hard back lean I'm probably just gonna put a rope in it. I guess that's the nice thing about being an arbo, there's always the option for a pull line nearby.
 
Well I did it again today. Pull line and wedges. Full sized oak next to the house. Evenly balanced but with wind in our favor. Had the pull line hook to the skiddy but didn’t need it. ( just insurance ) there was such a noticeable amount of movement just tapping the wedges with a hand sledge. It never gets old felling the gust of wind from felling a large tree.
 
I love the sound when a big one falls, the crackling and popping of the hinge closing then CRASH! Music to my ears man.
 
Well I did it again today. Pull line and wedges. Full sized oak next to the house. Evenly balanced but with wind in our favor. Had the pull line hook to the skiddy but didn’t need it. ( just insurance ) there was such a noticeable amount of movement just tapping the wedges with a hand sledge. It never gets old felling the gust of wind from felling a large tree.

I think your spot on with that... It really never gets old. I wish I caught it more on vid sometimes.
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