Strikes me that you're fighting the wood. A good, properly sized hinge for the tree (enough to hold it until committed to the lay, as much as needed) will hold it. Then you're only pulling as much as needed to tip the tree, not trying to bend a massive hinge.
For most pull-trees, I'll pretension a bit, then stand the tree up on the hinge and wedges, until I'm ready to pull it over. The way the tree moves with that slight pretension as the back-cut progresses tells me things. How the wedges feel and the pounding sounds, as I keep the wedges tight, tells me things.
I like the idea that the hinge/ holding wood fibers are still in their natural state of being, with slight deflection, rather than bending them more and more, relying on a distorted hinge to hold side-lean.