Timberline saw sharpener

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flushcut said:
Really? Are you slow or just running the hell out of your hand saw?
Click to expand...

Most of our cuts are handsaw, hand pruners or pole pruners. That probably covers 95% of all the cuts we make.

However, I removed 2 palm trees and a 15' tall lemon tree today. I sharpened two saws!


love
nick
 
Nick: Anyone who has the intelligence and dexterity to splice Blue Moon would have absolutely NO problem learning to sharpen even Square Grind properly. BTW, full-comp is the fullest sequence of cutters you can have on the chain. What Butch is saying is, "Too many teeth!!"

Gentlemen: Why sharpen round, when square cuts faster????
 
I think so: I hate filing a jillion teeth. Anything post 20" gets semi-skip, and anything past 32" - full skip.
 
I reckon that full comp bore cuts much better than full skip, going along with the vibration and kickback tendencies.

We run full skip, chisel (flat top), round ground on all our 28" and up at Parks. Generally, I don't feel like its got a lot of vibration, but I did get a bit of a surprise (but very handle-able) kickback when the 36" was buried, and then some, in a double-cut face two days ago.



If you are cutting nails a lot, full comp, full chisel, round ground/ filed maybe is not for you (and worse square ground). Normal, clean cutting, full comp will take longer to sharpen, but will stay sharp longer.
 
Timberline looks slow. They don't show how it sharpens dull chain, they show how it fits into already sharp chain, from the part of the video I watched. I don't need to sharpen sharp chain. Hand file and some skills, grinding when necessary.
 
Speed, Power and number of cutters. Number of cutters is what decide speed if power and RPM is the same.

Lets say you have a saw of 50cc. It can handle x amount of teeth in wood well. Each tooth take a certain amount of power to cut a certain amount of wood at a certain amount of rpm.
If you have them on 13" bar or 24" bar each tooth will cut same amount of wood. The more teeth in wood at same time provided speed of chain is same is faster.
If these teeth go thru same wood, the speed of number of teeth in and out of wood determine time of cut.
If Engine you can hold rpm of chain, the closer the teeth are the faster it will cut. If not the chain will cut slower.
The number of teeth thru wood is what cut, but these can be in different speeds. Lower number of teeth cutting, can give the number of teeth you actually have a faster rpm and more teeth thru wood.
 
Basically I should just keep the full comp chain on my saws. I only have 2 chainsaws. One is a 200T and the other is...I don't remember. It's a farm boss with a 20 or 24" chain.


love
nick
 
Gentlemen: Why run round when square cuts faster?

Nick: Run full skip and you will be happier with your life in general.

Williard: Never saw a fast skip chain?!!! My dear Sir!!!! It's not all about cutter-teeth: it's about chip-flow. Full-skip has WAY better chip flow, as you, my dear sir, or any other gentleman in this house will duly acknowledge! "Never saw a fast skip chain".... Ha.... Not all of us have the luxury of running a 395 with a stumpy little bar on it!
 
Tucker: No sir, and I absolutely take your word on the matter. I'm mostly messing with Williard who used to be a pulp cutter. "Never saw a fast skip-chain!!!" Ha!

Sean: What the heck kinda Sitkas where you double-cutting with a 36? Round here we might double-cut a Cottonpig or a Lombardy Pooplar, but it's the rare job indeed that we'll ever double-cut a Firpig. Man............!!!!!! I'm jealous of your job like nothing else!
 
inbredJed said:
Gentlemen: Why run round when square cuts faster?

Nick: Run full skip and you will be happier with your life in general.

Williard: Never saw a fast skip chain?!!! My dear Sir!!!! It's not all about cutter-teeth: it's about chip-flow. Full-skip has WAY better chip flow, as you, my dear sir, or any other gentleman in this house will duly acknowledge! "Never saw a fast skip chain".... Ha.... Not all of us have the luxury of running a 395 with a stumpy little bar on it!
Click to expand...
Ha ha Jed, I gotta say I have lectured about this exact topic many times over and over again till I was blue in the face.
But I guess we're all getting older and our memory is fizzing away as we speak.
Square ground cuts faster, well now that's a no brainer, all my race chain is square filed but I'm not gonna bother with the time and expense on the urban job site cutting sand, metal, rocks in the wood.
*first off [we're all working men earning a living with a saw here right?] Practicability and economics,square ground full skip in clean oversized PNW softwood where you need chipflow when the b/c is making a felling cut in a 6 foot diameter fir.
Round ground full comp quickly touched up with a round file on the urban worksite, maintaining a sawchain that is constantly in dirty wood, nails, rocks what have you. Not so practical with a fussy square ground full skip.
Now I can see a PNW faller changing loops of pre-ground square through out the day falling a maxium of 30 trees, and if he is a really experienced faller he may even touch up his chain with a chisel bit file.
Yes run skip on the urban worksite and you'll be touching up your chain more often, hit a rock with a full comp and you lose a 1/4 of the cutter, hit a rock with a full skip and you lose 1/3 to a 1/2 of a cutter.

Now goggle up hot saws, timbersports or what ever and look real close and see how many skip chains the world champions use on their saws, and yes some of those big competition logs are 30 inchs in diameter.
:D
 
Jed, I wasn't picking a bone with you. I was asking out of curiousity. Im not a saw chain expert. I run full chisel full comp on every saw I own. Even on bigger bars. I keep meaning to get some skip chain.
 
Tucker943 said:
Jed, I wasn't picking a bone with you. I was asking out of curiousity. Im not a saw chain expert. I run full chisel full comp on every saw I own. Even on bigger bars. I keep meaning to get some skip chain.
Click to expand...
I used to run full skip on my tree service's 395XP-32-36", no longer use it, as much as I use that saw I don't need it .
Just run the "tough, good edge holding" full comp. And BTW full skip doesn't have half the cutters of full comp.
 
Well that's the thing. My big saws pull 32-36" bars in hard wood with full comp just fine. I keep them razor sharp, and let the saw do the work. Never left me feeling like it was taking forever. Unless I hit metal, I don't have to file my big chains much. I'm more diligent about avoiding rocks and dirt with them, and they don't get used a fraction as much as my 20" bars do.
 
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