The Official Work Pictures Thread

[Raj]

Sean.

 

[CoreyYLTG]

Cut down another Ash tree.
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[cory]

Why do you make the diagonal cut first?

 

[Raj]

 

[CoreyYLTG]

Because I'm bad at doing tree work.

Also because when I logged I made the face of the notch as close to the dirt as I could, which meant doing the bottom angle cut first. That was 14 years or so ago so not really anything more than a bleed over from that I guess.

 

[treebilly]

Lots of guys do it that way Cory. I was taught horizontal first. It's what I became accustomed to. Can't do it another way or I mess it all up.

 

[CoreyYLTG]

I wonder if lots of Ohio guys do it as a bleed over from guys logging cedar in Kentucky? That is where I picked it up and the other guy I know that did it got it from his dad who did the same kind of logging. Trying to max out BF on smaller trees.

 

[Tree09]

Lol i do it that way too, easier for me to line up cuts on super open face notches, which i use probably too often to help with bucking. I don't use a humbolt hardly ever tho, never understood the advantage if you aren't trying to get lumber. Anyone care to educate me please?

 

[cory]

If you want the tree to land flat or butt first instead of tips first, a humboldt does that. One reason in tree work you might want the butt to land first is to cause less lawn damage.

 

[cory]

I know that a lot of folks cut the diagonal first, i just never could cipher it. To me it seems that the moment your saw touches the tree and starts cutting the angle, you are committed to that direction of fall, you can't easily adjust it once started. But starting first with a horizontal cut, you have unlimited opportunity to adjust the gun (the direction of fall).

And PNW loggers cut the horizontal first so that's good enough for me

 

[Limbrat]

I know that a lot of folks cut the diagonal first, i just never could cipher it. And PNW loggers cut the horizontal first so that's good enough for me

 

[CoreyYLTG]

Nobody really does a true Humboldt anymore that I see, but a bottom face or modified Humboldt puts a lot less down and back pressure on the stump. If you don't have a mill telling you how they want the logs, it can still be a good idea on dead trees or if you are sending a top out of a skinny tree.

 

[CoreyYLTG]

And yes, doing the angle cut first is a commitment, so be right.

 

[Tree09]

Thanks guys, learn something every time i log on here

 

[cory]

Nobody really does a true Humboldt anymore that I see,

August has shown hundreds of humboldts.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

So, I guess I cut em wrong?
Maybe he's thinking of a blocked out humboldt.

 

[CoreyYLTG]

Blocked out or original. A bore cut with two horizontal cuts. From back when the chainsaw was new and the thinking was you got more wood that way. Was ultimately found that a modified Humboldt or a bottom face made more wood as it was faster to do and still made the sawmill happy. The top face is easier for amatures or if your just knocking something over out in the woods. Or at least that is how it was explained to me. The block or original still has its uses though.

 

[cory]

I originally thought it was to be able to take the waste (pie cut) out of the stump instead of the butt log, and to have a squared off log ready to mill. Now afaik the main reason for it is to get the butt end to fall off the stump and land first to help prevent breakage

 

[SeanKroll]

Cory, I agree that you are committed once you start a a sloping cut first.

I roll my saw for the final 'gunning in' until exactly (as best I can) pointed to the lay. Then just match it up with the sloping cut.

Conventional cuts came from axes and springboard, I believe (surely people had chopped out a face before all that). Hard to swing an ax up into a big cut.

With a conventional face, you also have to move the wedge out. This can be heavy on a wide tree, deep cut face or standard. It falls out with a humboldt.

You can much more easily cut a humboldt into a tall stump (head high-- defects, root disease, just barely gonna fit, etc) on flat ground. Humboldts are easier to cut (and again deal with the wedge of wood) on steep ground, faced downhill, as often the lean goes in the woods.

Humboldts do mean a flat bottom to the valuable butt log, as they like them here. I don't know if the butt grain helps with veneer log value, as Stig cuts them. Seems like stump grain isn't going to make good construction lumber.

 

[Grendel]

August nails his Humboldt's like perfect, every time.

Out lake was all kicked up today.







My ratty old 10mm prussik ran a hell of a lot better on this new 11mm access line than the 8's I tried. . . Though for sure I'd need a smaller diameter cord. . .

 

[CurSedVoyce]

That water looks rough and cold Sam.

Hey Corey!

 

[SeanKroll]

smooooth

 

[Tree09]

Okay, since the only teaching I've had on technical felling is Gerry's book, I've got some more dumb questions. In a residential setting, no pushing past other trees or uphill where you need stump shot, no worries or care about logs or whatnot, on trees a bar length across or less, where I'm pulling against side or back lean, i usually do a conventional notch with a gap, very wide face opening, to try to stack the deck in my favor as much as i can with usually brittle wood. On ones larger than that, i usually do the block out with snipe. Am i going about this wrong or something, and if so, why? I understand the butt first thing, but i usually use pad logs out the wazzo so it's not an issue.

 

[flushcut]

Any time where the tree might kick back off the stump. I.E. next to a house, fence, or garden. I like using a humbolt when chunking down a stem.

 

[Grendel]

That is just Textbook Stephen. Love those shots.