The Official Work Pictures Thread

What is this blood you speak of?????

What is happening in this picture?
????.jpg I drink birch sap .. Allegory blood of wood
Is is birch sap being tapped to make birch syrup? I have read that it is common in Russia.
That I wondered...I know of maple syrup but not birch. I'm not even sure what kind of that tree that is.
I have never met a birch syrup in Russia. We have a Canadian maple syrup in our shops. To make 1 liter of maple syrup takes 40 liters of maple sap. To make 1 liter of birch syrup requires 100 liters of birch sap. It is interesting that birch syrup makes ​​in the USA! http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Берёзовый_сок Maybe are Russian emigrants do it?!:)
 
I still need to make that stick roller for chunking down. I saved some fibre glass rods from a tent. I am leaning more toward dowels now though. Damn fibre glass splintered and got me.

Since seeing the French Rollatubes, I've thought of going space aged with it and attaching a string to a 3/8" hardwood dowel. The string will act as a keeper and swivel.
 
Picture for profile

Masterblaster, here is the pic that I want as my profile pic. Thanks for the help.
 

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Sean, I am going to use some elastic like we would for a RWalker set up. Well, at least try it. Might change my mind and try to splice on onto some Zing It or sumptin. Add a small key chain biner to clip on my harness. I figure two for the big stuff.
 
I wouldn't go with elastic, Stephen. It could rocket the dowel up at your face. Probably a plastic key biner would be best as a load limiter, IMO, and what I'm going to try next time I have to chunk down rounds. A quick daisy chain to keep it tidy when stowed, I reckon.

Am I missing a benefit?
 
Just shorter off the saddle I was thinking... but I could probably figure a work around. My personal fear of the elastic is not so much getting a stick in my face as much as it could just come out of the curf at a critical moment causing more saw or cutting related issues.
 
How about a short piece of 3/8 steel rod, cheap and not too heavy and you could bend an eye in one end to hang it on a snap.
It should work very well and be durable, but the main point comes if you push it a little too far in the kerf : your sawchain would be shot in an eye blink.
Aluminum should be better, but you can try some plain plastic rods, polypropylene or nylon, if you don't want to mess with fiberglass.
The Rollotube is a plain fiberglass rod with a thick coat to avoid or at least reduce splintering.
 
Last year Andrey referred to what he was drinking as "juice birch" and it stuck in my head ever since. Seeing him drink from that jug again this year made me chuckle and say "hey he's drinking juice birch!"
 
Dowels work well but in my experience I've been able to get by without messing with them by using one 10'' wedge and a short (2') pry bar/wrecking bar. Easy to move 300+ lbs rounds. I rarely have to fight rounds bigger than that.
 
I'd rather saw lean into a log, or magic cut it, or push off a good chunk, than pull up two ropes (climb line and rigging line) to tie it up, then stand there on spurs while the groundies do their thing, then cut it and have them struggle. Seems like more work to me all around when you have a neutral or favorable lean. Plus, you never end up having the log on the (not there) rope, forcing you to move it in order to continue on (meanwhile standing there in spurs, well-caffeinated, ready to go). When in doubt, rope it.
 
Gord named it I believe. I think it is a mismatch with a snipe.
 
Gord named it I believe. I think it is a mismatch with a snipe.


Yes, its exactly that.

Being sure that your confident in being able to effectively undermine the center of gravity. Beauty in vertical conifers.

I dog in and roll a quickly aimed gun where I want, and undercut the COG. Because you aren't fighting the bending of a hinge, you need less undercut than if you are trying to saw lean into the log with a normal face/ hinge. If you see you are deep enough that its sagging, Stop. Be aware of barberchairing forces. Doug-fir can be cut deeep, IME. Be careful with maple, alder, etc.

Cut a diagonal (my preference to rest the saw in the wood and go with gravity. Also, it blows chips down, rather than up. I probably do it both ways, truthfully). I cut deep, leaving a full width dutchman/ kerf about 1" deep.
Come in the backcut below the first horizontal kerf, like with a bore-cut/ back-strap release cut.

Tips right over. The snipe/ kicker directs the log to a good degree, like a face-cut. Saves so much time and groundie resources. Usually snipes/ kickers are used in logging with humboldt face, in this area. I don't know that it matters much for my purposes, or at all.
 
I always wondered why not cut a full face and then normal back cut if you are going to cut a snipe which is going to take almost as much time as cutting a full face.

A full width dutchman is kinda scary to me. When cut unintentionally, it is the king of bad cuts by bad cutters.
 
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