The Official Work Pictures Thread

It’s not easy to get a good level cut with those longer bars. I know the 36” bar I have will bow easily when on a horizontal cut. It doesn’t take but a few ounces of pressure on the saw in the wrong direction and you end up with an ugly cut.
Silver maple seems to amplify those cuts. I can’t see your stump to well looking at my phone but being multi-stemmed you can end up having multiple tension and compression spots in there. Also with the nature of the bark and the fact that it’s in a lawn area there is a good possibility that the chain will get dinged up a bit on those lower horizontal cuts.
 
treebilly said:
It’s not easy to get a good level cut with those longer bars. I know the 36” bar I have will bow easily when on a horizontal cut. It doesn’t take but a few ounces of pressure on the saw in the wrong direction and you end up with an ugly cut.
Silver maple seems to amplify those cuts. I can’t see your stump to well looking at my phone but being multi-stemmed you can end up having multiple tension and compression spots in there. Also with the nature of the bark and the fact that it’s in a lawn area there is a good possibility that the chain will get dinged up a bit on those lower horizontal cuts.
Click to expand...
The stump cut sucked. The face was nice but I cut through the hinge boring with the 54” bar. It just wanted to pull that direction despite my best efforts. It really didn’t need a hinge though. It was only 6’ high vertical column or so and nothing it could hit. Pulled it over with the truck and the face gave it a good tipping point to help with direction.

All you said about the long bar problems on that type of tree definitely rang true in our scenario.

Yeah, even with the bar level, I’d bore an inch above the face and come out 2” below it on the other side! I faced it double cutting with the 36” and tried to double cut the back like that but it kept deflecting downward. I put the 54” on and tried both boring and traditional to match up to the face- no avail. After all that, the trunk was basically cut free just sitting on the stump.

How do you deal with those large multi stem trunks? Short bar?
 
I was thinking that myself. It's weird, and not something I'd do to an oak unless absolutely necessary, but with the right arborist skill, it could be maintained as a quirky specimen tree.
 
lxskllr said:
I was thinking that myself. It's weird, and not something I'd do to an oak unless absolutely necessary, but with the right arborist skill, it could be maintained as a quirky specimen tree.
Click to expand...
Not an oak.
After the siege there were no trees left in Leningrad.
So they replanted with something fast growing that could handle the weather...............poplar.
Probably the least ideal city tree one can think of.
That is what Andreij is dealing with.

Pollarding the eff out of them is the only way to go.
 
Treeaddict said:
The stump cut sucked. The face was nice but I cut through the hinge boring with the 54” bar. It just wanted to pull that direction despite my best efforts. It really didn’t need a hinge though. It was only 6’ high vertical column or so and nothing it could hit. Pulled it over with the truck and the face gave it a good tipping point to help with direction.

All you said about the long bar problems on that type of tree definitely rang true in our scenario.

Yeah, even with the bar level, I’d bore an inch above the face and come out 2” below it on the other side! I faced it double cutting with the 36” and tried to double cut the back like that but it kept deflecting downward. I put the 54” on and tried both boring and traditional to match up to the face- no avail. After all that, the trunk was basically cut free just sitting on the stump.

How do you deal with those large multi stem trunks? Short bar?
Click to expand...
For long boring cuts like that, you need to start way back from the hinge. Start with the belly of the saw to the rear, then flip it over to bring the cut forward to where you want the back of the hinge to be. Keeping a long bore level is hard. You might try practicing on some stumps before you alap them...you can put a bunch of bores in a single stump. Mark where you want to end up on the far side. This helped me develop the technique better.

Here's another method for getting those longer than the bar felling cuts in place. I like this better than using a very long bar.

question for stig short bar technique for open face or conventional notch

Stig, how do you recommend cutting a conventional or open face when the bar is shorter than the hinge? This is a co-dom white oak that we had to rip the crotch down to about 3' height to get the first lead down.. Notch was cut clean, but it wasn't pretty getting there.... Ended up...
www.masterblasterhome.com
 
Last edited:
I try to pin it to my chest/beer gut, that seems to help me :lol:. Your saw has to be cutting good and straight, i find when i hand sharpen several times the cut will start curving right in the cut (silver maples really seem to accentuate that too), so i gotta use a grinder every now and then to get them all the same length again so it'll cut perfectly again. Fighting that a bit on the ground is one thing, doing it while on rope in the tree is another, basically if you gotta run a big saw on the tree make sure it's good before you go try it. You can also cut a bit, just enough to hold the saw in the cut and stop, and then get a good look at it and adjust your aim if needed before sending it, a little bit off at the beginning will often be terrible when it's finished. If I'm gonna have to do bore cuts and stuff I'm not above starting/ doing them with a smaller saw, especially if I'm running the 32" bar on the big saw, that's a nightmare to do on rope. I don't like running the big saw on rope, so I'll try to limit how many cuts i gotta do, and try to keep them super simple and not as dependant on accuracy.

Rather than cutting it perfectly I'll do the magic cut thing, basically a snap cut with a snipe (make sure to finish your cut low so it can't snatch your saw) and I'll even go so far as having someone on the ground trip them with a pull line since that's much easier for them than me pushing on it. If I'm in a lift I'll do the cut, shut the saw off and stow it, and then boom back up to the top to push it, that way you can aim it even better with your push. Rather than blocking it down I'll use a vertical speedline if possible, it's much easier to control a bounce than to catch and lower something that heavy, and you can often take much larger pieces once you stop trying to catch them. You can also move logs around where you want to use as an anchor, drifting a log over a bit is still easier than catching it. Ideally I'll just drop the spar and not need to cut up the larger wood in the tree at all, or free fall them rather than rigging, but sometimes that just isn't possible. As you do it more you'll learn what you can get away with. You can use logs and brush that you've cut already to pad the ground and fence in the drop area too, old tires make great cushions to protect the ground, especially on plywood or other cribbing to spread the load more evenly, perhaps with logs on top to spread the force out even more. Play around with all the different rigging and log containing techniques on easy trees, so that way you'll know which ones will fit the situation the best and how you can apply them to the harder and bigger ones. Often thinking outside the box a bit can really make your life easier, and using speedlines and pull lines to aim where the piece goes rather than catching it is often faster and easier and safer in the long run.
 
Tree09 said:
I try to pin it to my chest/beer gut, that seems to help me :lol:. Your saw has to be cutting good and straight, i find when i hand sharpen several times the cut will start curving right in the cut (silver maples really seem to accentuate that too), so i gotta use a grinder every now and then to get them all the same length again so it'll cut perfectly again. Fighting that a bit on the ground is one thing, doing it while on rope in the tree is another, basically if you gotta run a big saw on the tree make sure it's good before you go try it. You can also cut a bit, just enough to hold the saw in the cut and stop, and then get a good look at it and adjust your aim if needed before sending it, a little bit off at the beginning will often be terrible when it's finished. If I'm gonna have to do bore cuts and stuff I'm not above starting/ doing them with a smaller saw, especially if I'm running the 32" bar on the big saw, that's a nightmare to do on rope. I don't like running the big saw on rope, so I'll try to limit how many cuts i gotta do, and try to keep them super simple and not as dependant on accuracy.

Rather than cutting it perfectly I'll do the magic cut thing, basically a snap cut with a snipe (make sure to finish your cut low so it can't snatch your saw) and I'll even go so far as having someone on the ground trip them with a pull line since that's much easier for them than me pushing on it. If I'm in a lift I'll do the cut, shut the saw off and stow it, and then boom back up to the top to push it, that way you can aim it even better with your push. Rather than blocking it down I'll use a vertical speedline if possible, it's much easier to control a bounce than to catch and lower something that heavy, and you can often take much larger pieces once you stop trying to catch them. You can also move logs around where you want to use as an anchor, drifting a log over a bit is still easier than catching it. Ideally I'll just drop the spar and not need to cut up the larger wood in the tree at all, or free fall them rather than rigging, but sometimes that just isn't possible. As you do it more you'll learn what you can get away with. You can use logs and brush that you've cut already to pad the ground and fence in the drop area too, old tires make great cushions to protect the ground, especially on plywood or other cribbing to spread the load more evenly, perhaps with logs on top to spread the force out even more. Play around with all the different rigging and log containing techniques on easy trees, so that way you'll know which ones will fit the situation the best and how you can apply them to the harder and bigger ones. Often thinking outside the box a bit can really make your life easier, and using speedlines and pull lines to aim where the piece goes rather than catching it is often faster and easier and safer in the long run.
Click to expand...
chainsaw teeth don‘t need to be equally long as long as each raker is adjusted properly to each cutter.
 
Last day of logging today.
Back to planting trees. Still have 100000 to go.

The forester asked me to fell 6 fine oaks today, every one a codominant.
Most expensive logs in the forest, but split a Veneer grade log and it is suddenly just firewood.
Specialist work, he said, so I'd like to have you on the saw.
Since he has 2 other teams falling nearby, that made me feel pretty good.

Go to have both co-doms hit the ground at the wxact same time or it'll split.

I had too little backstrap on the front leaner in the picture.
20240213_093723.jpg 20240213_093846.jpg 20240213_094929.jpg
Broke the strap and went prematurely.
Took some fast cutting on the left side to avoid a barber chair.
 
I guess they aren't quite worth the effort of climbing to remove the codom section to ensure a good fall(assuming a well qualified logger isn't on site)?
 
Those would be.
I actually suggested it, but he told me there was no need, he was sure I could fall them..
As long as all goes well, that is fine, but it is a bit of a double edged sword.
Takes a long time to build a reputation, one can ruin it in a moment.

I've done it on occasion on really special ones.
Norway made a life size copy of the Oseberg ship.
Got an oak for the keel from Denmark. As a gift from one country to another.
One of my old apprentices took the tops out of that one.
On national television.
 
stig said:
Last day of logging today.
Back to planting trees. Still have 100000 to go.

The forester asked me to fell 6 fine oaks today, every one a codominant.
Most expensive logs in the forest, but split a Veneer grade log and it is suddenly just firewood.
Specialist work, he said, so I'd like to have you on the saw.
Since he has 2 other teams falling nearby, that made me feel pretty good.

Go to have both co-doms hit the ground at the wxact same time or it'll split.

I had too little backstrap on the front leaner in the picture.
View attachment 136151View attachment 136152View attachment 136153
Broke the strap and went prematurely.
Took some fast cutting on the left side to avoid a barber chair.
Click to expand...
It's good to have laurels, it's better not to sit on them.

Despite the challenges and difficulties, isn't it nice to know you've still got it?

Damn handsome Dane in that first photo...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Mick!
Branch walking, how do you do it?
Replies
21
Views
967
Bodean
Bodean
Knotorious
Official Random Fact/Random Thought Thread!
23 24 25
Replies
608
Views
21K
Nutball
Nutball
lxskllr
Commercial Food Recommendation Thread
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
lxskllr
lxskllr
Burnham
Craters of the Moon N.M., Idaho pictures
Replies
22
Views
1K
Marc-Antoine
Marc-Antoine
lxskllr
Stripped Oiler Gear - Cause?
2
Replies
28
Views
1K
Al Smith
Al Smith
Back
Top