The Official Work Pictures Thread
- Thread starter MasterBlaster
- Start date
- Replies 35K
- Views 1M
flushcut
TreeHouser
Hopefully it got shut off as soon as it went over!!
Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
@Jed ... The chain I used for the compare-0 (Husqvarna C/83 x cut) is around 8-10% quicker than any competitors chain ... It’s sqr/rnd and looks to be sharpened with a CBN wheel from the factory and I also shaped the gullet. The results are in line with what one wood expect (8-10 + 10-12 or 18-22% gain) so I’d say you retain the Jedi moniker 
. Haven’t any larger / different species wood to test at the moment but will shoot more test video when available. The temps are going to be in the single digits/low teens here in WNY so the saws will be resting on the shelf for a bit
. Haven’t any larger / different species wood to test at the moment but will shoot more test video when available. The temps are going to be in the single digits/low teens here in WNY so the saws will be resting on the shelf for a bit
Mick!
TreeHouser
Red oak demolition.
Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
That red oak wood make for some nice heat when seasoned. Does that bollard have provisions for a winch ?
Mick!
TreeHouser
Yes it does, never needed one though.
biggun
Monkey for Hire
@Mick! , nice work on the Red.
Can I make a suggestion? slide 6, the tip roping of the section of stem. Was that you or your nephew?
Tieing that close to the tip will always make the piece 'banjo about'. If you tie it just above the centre point in the top third, it will still be butt heavy but will almost float off the cut. It makes it a lot safer as it is more predictable, plus it won't shock load the anchor point. Obviously that tree could handle it, but a more structurally compromised one, may not.
I have also seen climbers struck or almost struck by the piece as it 'banjos' about. It makes me cringe and wince, having seen a video a few years ago where the climber got wiped out by a lump of beech tied too close to the tip.
Can I make a suggestion? slide 6, the tip roping of the section of stem. Was that you or your nephew?
Tieing that close to the tip will always make the piece 'banjo about'. If you tie it just above the centre point in the top third, it will still be butt heavy but will almost float off the cut. It makes it a lot safer as it is more predictable, plus it won't shock load the anchor point. Obviously that tree could handle it, but a more structurally compromised one, may not.
I have also seen climbers struck or almost struck by the piece as it 'banjos' about. It makes me cringe and wince, having seen a video a few years ago where the climber got wiped out by a lump of beech tied too close to the tip.
Last edited:
Mick!
TreeHouser
Point taken.
Me up there btw.
Me up there btw.
biggun
Monkey for Hire
Sweet 
not a big deal but there is a notable difference with how the piece leaves the cut.
How is the nephew getting on? you had him up anything like that yet?
Bloody cold here today -10c in Oslo when we got there today. Yesterday and today we were pruning HC at the main church in Oslo. Beautiful trees and nice work.
Only downside is if you don't get a throw line in sharpish you lose feeling in your hands.
not a big deal but there is a notable difference with how the piece leaves the cut.How is the nephew getting on? you had him up anything like that yet?
Bloody cold here today -10c in Oslo when we got there today. Yesterday and today we were pruning HC at the main church in Oslo. Beautiful trees and nice work.
Only downside is if you don't get a throw line in sharpish you lose feeling in your hands.
Mick!
TreeHouser
Progress is there with the nephew, it’s not light speed but it’s happening.
Too much going on with this tree, and with the prospect of rain at any time meant we just got on with it.
Too much going on with this tree, and with the prospect of rain at any time meant we just got on with it.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
@pantheraba, what was the side-line, so closed to the cut, for? I thought it was a 90* to the lay, retainer line, but so close to the cut, there is no leverage.
pantheraba
More biners!!!
There was a building about 6 ft from the stump. That was a retainer line in case the spar got frisky when things hit the ground. Basically in case the spar decided to do a bucking bronco and jump around.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Yep, got it, not a 90* to lay support line for the hinge, rather a keep the butt under control line!
treebilly
Student of the Jedi. OH-7106A
100%.
I'm sure a lot of folks figure it out on their own. I learned it from Mark Chisholm at a rigging seminar. One way to say it is you want to tie the piece at a balance point such that after it is cut and hanging from the rope, it is still at the same angle it was growing at.
I watched a well equipped tree service working yesterday- 2 large chip trucks, 20" BB chipper, 75' bucket, brand new 12 wheel roll off Peterbilt log truck, AWS bobcat with grapple, 70hp Rayco stumper. I watched while the climber made one cut on a large white oak removal. He had a 6'x14" piece tied at the top as is the subject of these posts and had a pull rope on the piece. Climber cut the face and then got his saw stuck making the back cut, I think it was pinched by side lean/ cutting off the far side hinge. The hinge that remained was too thick to break by the ground guys pulling and jerking on it like crazy. Well eventually he pried his saw free and cut more and the piece was pulled over with the tag line. It of course 'banjoed about' (a new term for me ) and would have threatened the climber but it was let down quickly past him. Made me wonder how they earned all that nice equipment.
I'm sure a lot of folks figure it out on their own. I learned it from Mark Chisholm at a rigging seminar. One way to say it is you want to tie the piece at a balance point such that after it is cut and hanging from the rope, it is still at the same angle it was growing at.
I watched a well equipped tree service working yesterday- 2 large chip trucks, 20" BB chipper, 75' bucket, brand new 12 wheel roll off Peterbilt log truck, AWS bobcat with grapple, 70hp Rayco stumper. I watched while the climber made one cut on a large white oak removal. He had a 6'x14" piece tied at the top as is the subject of these posts and had a pull rope on the piece. Climber cut the face and then got his saw stuck making the back cut, I think it was pinched by side lean/ cutting off the far side hinge. The hinge that remained was too thick to break by the ground guys pulling and jerking on it like crazy. Well eventually he pried his saw free and cut more and the piece was pulled over with the tag line. It of course 'banjoed about' (a new term for me
) and would have threatened the climber but it was let down quickly past him. Made me wonder how they earned all that nice equipment.
Nutball
TreeHouser
Maybe the boss earned it by all the work that the last employees did.
Burnham
Woods walker
Whomever has never pinched a bar, please raise their hand...
I thought so.
I thought so
.
Jed
TreeHouser
Mick: Virtually no damage. Super rad pics/vid via the Gram btw... I’d say you crushed it. LOVED the taught-line (it wasn’t a Blake Hitch was it
.) I used the Taughty twice last week and loved it. I only use Kevin’s runner srt when I have to do a ton of up and down monkey business.
Sven: Yes sir. Very much steeper indeed. Weird phone perspective.
Raj: Yeah... dude I’m thinkin that thing must have a bit of a kill switch, causeit shut down immediately.
Frankie: Glad she’s workin out. Let us know bro.
.) I used the Taughty twice last week and loved it. I only use Kevin’s runner srt when I have to do a ton of up and down monkey business.Sven: Yes sir. Very much steeper indeed. Weird phone perspective.
Raj: Yeah... dude I’m thinkin that thing must have a bit of a kill switch, causeit shut down immediately.
Frankie: Glad she’s workin out. Let us know bro.
Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
@ Jed, right-0 , Anything ya need saw performance-wise bro , tuned intakes/exhausts , Hotwoods porting , carb work etc ... Insane-O like performance that won’t cost your firstborn son 
..... burning the midnite oil last nite and made a jig to turn down a .404 sprocket , now you can run picco (3/8 lo pro) on the larger saws. I do not recommend this setup for production use as the smaller chassis will stretch / break but for a what IF , it works ! Enjoy ....
..... burning the midnite oil last nite and made a jig to turn down a .404 sprocket , now you can run picco (3/8 lo pro) on the larger saws. I do not recommend this setup for production use as the smaller chassis will stretch / break but for a what IF , it works ! Enjoy ....
Nutball
TreeHouser
Jig? Just slap it on the lathe and turn it down. Picco can break up over 5hp or so, I forget, and being 3/8 you might as well use a 3/8 rim which will fit most any saw big enough to snap picco chain.
What do you have in mind? Antique saw? I must be missing something.
Looks like it is stretching a good bit already in the video. Is it a bit slower than the last video you posted?
What do you have in mind? Antique saw? I must be missing something.
Looks like it is stretching a good bit already in the video. Is it a bit slower than the last video you posted?
Frankie
I Build and Run Ported Saws !
Jig - workholding device that establishes location, Fixture- workholding device - now that you’ve been brought up to speed on the nomenclature what was your question again ?
Nutball
TreeHouser
I was wondering what jig is needed to turn down a .404 sprocket. Is it a rim or a spur? I've put a whole clutch drum on the chuck to turn down a spur. Not sure why you would turn down a rim. Does a smaller .404 = 3/8LP?
