The Official Work Pictures Thread

retrenchment pruning! To pto paraphrase an old timer I worked with in Boston "save the trunk, people never look up" . They did similarly aggressive pruning on some of the trees in Boston commons back in the day. Bought a few more decades for blown out old trees

Going to be a maintenance nightmare for a while probably, but worth a shot!
 
@Blair Glenn I don't see any issues with leaving a tree to see what happens. Might turn out nice, and you might have to come back for the the rest at a modest cost increase over doing it now. Big trees take a long time to replace, so it would be worth a try if it were my tree. And there's the concrete...

I was looking at my locust I'm planning on removing soon, and noticed how much it was suckering from the trimming I did earlier this year. Got me thinking about doing something stupid like taking most of it down, but leaving a good bit of stem to see what happens. I'm pretty sure I want it gone anyway to make room for the oak growing next to it, but it'll be an interesting experiment I might be able to apply to the other locusts that are hitting EOL that I *don't* want gone. That would let the trees last a bit longer with less destructive potential when they completely go.
 
@Sean,
In my limited experience of barberchair, I say yes. I trimmed as much as I felt confident and with the wind, day ending and hesitation, I bailed gracefully. The tie in point is 8" of healthy maple and the lean's been there for at least 10 years. Still, I have hesitations dropping the top. I know it is all in my head but I will likely add a tie in point in a neighboring tree.
 
@Sean,
In my limited experience of barberchair, I say yes. I trimmed as much as I felt confident and with the wind, day ending and hesitation, I bailed gracefully. The tie in point is 8" of healthy maple and the lean's been there for at least 10 years. Still, I have hesitations dropping the top. I know it is all in my head but I will likely add a tie in point in a neighboring tree.
Sorry, but if you tie into a neighboring tree and actually have to use that tie in, it will kill you by swinging you back into that tree. Your idea of extra safety is wrong in this case. It's just more ways for you to get injured. It's too big of a swing.

The top is straight enough that a simple jump cut will result in the tree coming down on you, so you need enough of a notch to steer the top out from over your head. Throw a notch in the direction that the top is leaning and cut it. Hesitation and indecision will hurt you more than just making the cut. If you aren't confident enough to throw the top then just keep piecing it out or drop the tree from the ground.
 
Good!

Check out the Coos Bay thread and associated discussion.

Face it off to the side of the lean. Cut fast. Switch to your chunking-down saw before popping the top of you're using a lower power top handle, not a 201t type. I use my 2511t AMAP, unless needing power for a specific tree.
 
P.S.

I like to cut them above a strong crotch.
BEWARE the Circle of Death!

Grufrock
Spar Split Surprise might find you a good video ... No luck finding it in this end, ATM.

Gord has been around the block...BC climber/ Faller.
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Never before considered using an old steel-core flip line with Gibbs, as a belt, in place of a ratchet strap or chain.
Wonder how strong it would be.
Quicker to install/ remove a bunch of times...so it would more likely be used.

Maybe just a piece of stable-braid and a tenex friction hitch adjuster, tightened with wedges.
 
Is fir any good to use as a saw log? I milled up the spruce I dropped last year, and really like working with the wood. Light as a feather, and decent strength. I haven't done much with it, but I use it a lot to patch things, and make little doodads.
 
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